Going crazy! P faults C faults and no info

[Jerseyjers]

Seadoo, I have a love HATE relationship with u guys! Love your machines but HATE that I can't find much if any info on fault codes. Why do you people make it so hard for us owners! As an owner of many waverunners I prefer to do my own work. Gives me an excuse to get away from the wife.

Well anyways here is my current issue with my headache.
2012 rxt is 260. Faults codes c0073, c2102, and p1661.

P1661 I saw somewhere it's a bilge pump short? I have a bilge pump??? What? I don't think so, all though I've been wrong before. Just ask the wife.

C0073 is an ecm software issue, needs update? Is that correct? If so why does it need an update? It's not connected to the internet and ecm isn't getting other updates. I just don't understand why it needs and update if it was working correctly for the first 62 hours.

C2102 ibr actuator moment? Does this code show only because it faults? My ibr system moves freely I really don't see an issue besides whenI'm hauling ass and it faults causing a noose dive. Not good when your standing and wake jumping!

If anyone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Digdog]

Check you battery cable connections, especially the ground cable to the engine. Check the batteries voltage after sitting for a while and then do a load test on it, it sounds like when you need higher current something is not keeping up.

 

[Jerseyjers]

So i thought that was the issue so I replaced it with a brand new agm battery. All connections to battery are good. I also have it on a trickle charger at all times.

 

[Jerseyjers]

Well took her out again today after verifying all connections and same codes pop up plus a new one! P0106 map sensor. The code only showsat issue which is rough but one above 3500 rpms it goes away. Stupid ibr error happens at above 50 mph. Lol already starting the season out great.

 

[beergut]

I feel your pain! I winterized & wrapped my 2011 rxt is 260 end of last season- within 2 minutes of starting up this season, 2 weeks ago, I got P0106 & P1106! the 0106 is a pressure sensor (which somehow failed while sitting in storage over the winter) and I can't find ANY info on what P1106 is. But at least the ski started up (running rough but idling) rode it a few times and seemed fine other than the rough idle & P codes. then yesterday, took it out after a 5 minute warm-up, got about 3.5 miles from my dock and the ski shut off! would turn over and try to start but stall after 1 second. Had no iBR functions at all. no one answering cell phone at the house- I sat there for an hour in the middle of the lake (my collapsible paddle was useless in the wind) until I was able to flag down a bass boat and get a tow home. On the way home while being towed, I was able to start the ski up and it was rough idling high, with no iBR function, and stuck in forward mode- I didn't realize it was stuck forward until I applied the brake to prevent myself from hitting the bass boat and just kept going forward! I pulled the key just in time! turned it back on and had U16A4, U16A5, U0129. which brought me here :/ Now the dash wont even turn on with the key. So I pulled the battery out late last night and did a load test- load test said battery failed and was reading 11.4 volts. guess I'm buying a new battery today, hoping that resolves the "U" codes and praying I don't need a $1000 iBR module. Last year I got C2221 & C2222 codes, which were tied to a low battery or bad battery connection. After charging, the codes went away for the rest of the season. Maybe winter did the battery in... if it helps any, I found the part #'s for the new iBR module - 278002846 (old # 278002606) pressure sensor (MAP sensor) 420274057

 

[Jerseyjers]

Uffff that's rough! I did some research last night and did some troubleshooting on the map sensor. I have a funny feeling it might be the trottle body. Idk how that would get dirty except for maybe leaking intercooler. Once i get off of work I'm goingto remove the hose and see if any water is coming out. I'm also going to remove the ibr and split its case again and see if I have any moisture in the electronics. I'll report later tonight, maybe with some pictures and videos.

 

[beergut]

Uffff that's rough! I did some research last night and did some troubleshooting on the map sensor. I have a funny feeling it might be the trottle body. Idk how that would get dirty except for maybe leaking intercooler. Once i get off of work I'm goingto remove the hose and see if any water is coming out. I'm also going to remove the ibr and split its case again and see if I have any moisture in the electronics. I'll report later tonight, maybe with some pictures and videos.

lol- If I have to get into it that deep- it'll be listed on cl by sunday for 1/4 it's worth and I'll go buy another one!

 

[Jerseyjers]

lol- If I have to get into it that deep- it'll be listed on cl by sunday for 1/4 it's worth and I'll go buy another one!

I'm going to buy another one anyways I just want this one for friends and family that happen to pay me a visit during good weather. Lol. And again thisis my excuse to get away from the wife. Ha. Love her but.......

 

[Jerseyjers]

Ok so got home from work and removed hose from throttle body and started it up and got water. To me it seems like this shouldn't be happening. First started and it was what I thought and think a lot of water, after a few revs the amount went down but still saw a spray. I took a video, ha. But I warn ya, not that good. Check it out. Let me know what your thoughts are.

Thanks guys.

 

[Digdog]

You need a new intercooler for sure, it will be much worse when its in the water.

 

[Jerseyjers]

You need a new intercooler for sure, it will be much worse when its in the water.

That's what I was afraid of. Any suggestions of intercooler that will last more than 60 some hours?

 

[Jerseyjers]

Ok so need an intercooler, clean throttle body, most likely replace MAS sensor, and new dumb IBR system. Jeebus! Cha ching cha ching cha ching.

 

[Jerseyjers]

Ooo forgot to add oil change and spark plugs to the above list

 

[beergut]

ugh! that's just miserable. shame sea-doo stuck owners with these issues. really makes me miss the old carb'd 2-strokes.
as soon as I finish my waffles I'm heading out to grab a new battery and praying the iBR (which I now refer to as either "irritable Brake & Reverse" or "infinitely Break & Replace" ) smartens up.

 

[Jerseyjers]

ugh! that's just miserable. shame sea-doo stuck owners with these issues. really makes me miss the old carb'd 2-strokes.
as soon as I finish my waffles I'm heading out to grab a new battery and praying the iBR (which I now refer to as either "irritable Brake & Reverse" or "infinitely Break & Replace" ) smartens up.

infinitely Break & Replace - perfect name for it!

I unfortunately can't work on the ski today till later. Signed up for more overtime. Although the only tasks I can complete is the removal of intercooler, throttle body, oil change and spark plug replacements and of course drop some cash on a new "infinitely Break & Replace" system and intercooler.

Let me know how your day goes. Very interested

 

[Digdog]

That's what I was afraid of. Any suggestions of intercooler that will last more than 60 some hours?

I bought a WSM , but it doesn't fit in perfect but it's built to last forever and it's heavy. Riva, Fizzle and PWC on *bay are good ones, just search for Seadoo intercooler. The biggest thing for most of these machines is that if it is going to freeze in winter you have to take off the cooling water hoses and blow it out, also up until 2015 they were fail prone right from the factory. There is also an air filter inside the intake so if it doesn't seem to have all the boost later that also might be clogged from the dirty water, watch you oil burn or loss as the rings could be stuck.

 

[beergut]

so- I resolved the U16A4, U16A5, U0129 codes and IBR error message by replacing the battery and cleaning the solenoid cable terminals. but now I'm dealing with a pressure sensor (MAP) After replacing the battery- I hooked the hose up and stated the rtx- it fired right up and the iBR was operating, so I backed it down to the lake for a trial. with the engine off, I still have a P1106 code, which is a total mystery to me- every code chart I find skips over P1106 - with the engine running, The engine light is still on and throwing P0106 & P1106. Even though it started right up while on the trailer on the hose, it was very hard starting in the water. Once I got it running, I let it run for 5 minutes at my dock- it has a rough idle and smells rich to me. I decided to take it out for a test run- I noticed it was rough and unresponsive the first 1/4" of throttle, then it lurched forward and jumped up 1000 rpm and took off, it felt good for about 90 seconds, then bogged down and stalled 1000' off dock. Engine would crank over and sputter then stall. thankfully, my neighbor was sitting on his dock watching me and towed me back with his kawasaki (I always give him crap about his perfectly running kawi ) once back at the dock, I was able to get it started again, but very rough. I pulled it out and called HK Powersports in Hooksett, Nh- earliest service date may 23rd . Looks like the MAP is under the ECM on the engine. The thought of taking the suspension off, engine cover & ecm just to change the MAP sensor makes me wanna vomit. just don't have the time to deal with it. I hope I don't have a defective intercooler! why am I so hooked on BRP? I've owned a dozen sea-doo's and can-am outlanders with 1000cc rotax engines- the atv rotax engines run flawless- my last 4 sea-doo 4-tec engines had constant issues!

 

[beergut]

I bought a WSM , but it doesn't fit in perfect but it's built to last forever and it's heavy. Riva, Fizzle and PWC on *bay are good ones, just search for Seadoo intercooler. The biggest thing for most of these machines is that if it is going to freeze in winter you have to take off the cooling water hoses and blow it out, also up until 2015 they were fail prone right from the factory. There is also an air filter inside the intake so if it doesn't seem to have all the boost later that also might be clogged from the dirty water, watch you oil burn or loss as the rings could be stuck.

man, you got me depressed with this intercooler info

 

[Jerseyjers]

I bought a WSM , but it doesn't fit in perfect but it's built to last forever and it's heavy. Riva, Fizzle and PWC on *bay are good ones, just search for Seadoo intercooler. The biggest thing for most of these machines is that if it is going to freeze in winter you have to take off the cooling water hoses and blow it out, also up until 2015 they were fail prone right from the factory. There is also an air filter inside the intake so if it doesn't seem to have all the boost later that also might be clogged from the dirty water, watch you oil burn or loss as the rings could be stuck.

Ooo man. Guess I'll just add the air filter to my list. Might as well replace everything that got effected while I have the ski apart.

Did you have to do any special modifications to secure the wsm? I'd rather go with something heavy duty. I'm in the ocean 95% of the times, 5% bay just to get out into the ocean.

 

[Jerseyjers]

so- I resolved the U16A4, U16A5, U0129 codes and IBR error message by replacing the battery and cleaning the solenoid cable terminals. but now I'm dealing with a pressure sensor (MAP) After replacing the battery- I hooked the hose up and stated the rtx- it fired right up and the iBR was operating, so I backed it down to the lake for a trial. with the engine off, I still have a P1106 code, which is a total mystery to me- every code chart I find skips over P1106 - with the engine running, The engine light is still on and throwing P0106 & P1106. Even though it started right up while on the trailer on the hose, it was very hard starting in the water. Once I got it running, I let it run for 5 minutes at my dock- it has a rough idle and smells rich to me. I decided to take it out for a test run- I noticed it was rough and unresponsive the first 1/4" of throttle, then it lurched forward and jumped up 1000 rpm and took off, it felt good for about 90 seconds, then bogged down and stalled 1000' off dock. Engine would crank over and sputter then stall. thankfully, my neighbor was sitting on his dock watching me and towed me back with his kawasaki (I always give him crap about his perfectly running kawi ) once back at the dock, I was able to get it started again, but very rough. I pulled it out and called HK Powersports in Hooksett, Nh- earliest service date may 23rd . Looks like the MAP is under the ECM on the engine. The thought of taking the suspension off, engine cover & ecm just to change the MAP sensor makes me wanna vomit. just don't have the time to deal with it. I hope I don't have a defective intercooler! why am I so hooked on BRP? I've owned a dozen sea-doo's and can-am outlanders with 1000cc rotax engines- the atv rotax engines run flawless- my last 4 sea-doo 4-tec engines had constant issues!

Oooo boy. Sounds like you and I are in the same boat. Now that I've experienced this problem I could almost bet your intercooler is leaking.

So with this IS model ski I have, what a bxtch it is to work on. Removing the daaaaammmmm cover sucked! Tried getting it through the seat but no luck. Had to remove the rear suspension bolts and vola engine cover slide right out.

Wish I had the same luck with the ibr but looks like I'll be replacing it.

My timeline is getting delayed due to work and other projects that NEED to get done, like my driveway extension. 3 weekends and counting. Fml! O and my truck needs inspection, just looked at the sticker and I'm 5 months late. Oops! Lol. Only issue is a check engine light came on and that needs to be fixed prior to inspection.

I'll take a short video in the next few mins of the back of the ski to show how I removed the engine cover.

 

[Jerseyjers]

Short video - what the clearance to engine looks like when you remove the rear suspension bolts

 

[Digdog]

Ooo man. Guess I'll just add the air filter to my list. Might as well replace everything that got effected while I have the ski apart.

Did you have to do any special modifications to secure the wsm? I'd rather go with something heavy duty. I'm in the ocean 95% of the times, 5% bay just to get out into the ocean.

You can't replace the air filter but you can delete it, there are caps sold to cover the old hole once it's out. If its not clogged then leave it in, there was another guy here not so long ago that had a leaking intercooler and he was running salt water, his throttle body was sticking causing codes so he cleaned it and lubed it and all was good. You can test the throttle body while removed but still wired up, do not put your fingers in it !! it is spring loaded when it closes!!! For the WSM just buy some good ties or bungees to hold it down.

 

[Digdog]

man, you got me depressed with this intercooler info

While you are in there take the hose off going to the intake and see if there is water in the intercooler, look at the thread above. Change your plugs if it's leaking and fix the intercooler problem, could be the cause of your map sensor code also.

 

[Jerseyjers]

I bought a WSM , but it doesn't fit in perfect but it's built to last forever and it's heavy. Riva, Fizzle and PWC on *bay are good ones, just search for Seadoo intercooler. The biggest thing for most of these machines is that if it is going to freeze in winter you have to take off the cooling water hoses and blow it out, also up until 2015 they were fail prone right from the factory. There is also an air filter inside the intake so if it doesn't seem to have all the boost later that also might be clogged from the dirty water, watch you oil burn or loss as the rings could be stuck.

So I just purchased the fizzle 1000 plus free flow exhaust, speed override module and next week going for a different prop. I'm going to get everything running again, go for a test ride then bring to dealer to see if I can get an update on the ibr. If that doesn't work I'll be getting a new ibr. Fingers crossed.