Gear/stator oil change

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robman66

New Member
I have read a couple threads regarding changing the gear/stator oil. Just looking for a bit more clarification.
I know there are the drain and vent plugs, next to the intake grate. Maybe someone can help me with the proper procedure.

Obviously the drain plug is removed to drain the old oil. I read something about using the vent hole to fill it?
So once the old oil is completely drained, re-install the drain plug and start to fill through the vent plug? Until it overflows?
And then just re-install the vent plug and call it done?

I am totally lost when it comes to the stator. I don't even know what to look at, or how to begin.

Also, how much gear oil do I need to buy? Is 1 quart enough?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Rob
 
I like the write up but I have one question about which thread sealant to use. Last year I believe I used permatex thread locker blue. However it is a gel which I think gets washed off by oil as I am trying to reinstall the screws and bolts especially when doing the gear oil change near the intake grate.


The write up makes mention of using Loctite PST or Permatex Pipe Sealant. However, it appears to me those are just generic terms.

Is there a better thread sealer that is more like a paste that wont wash off when I install it in an oily environment???
 
If I purchase a new stator assembly, are they pre lubricated? I'm replacing both my wear ring and stator on my M2 240 efi in my 03 utopia. I had a two SS bolts fail and the impeller ate the wear ring and the seals bushings were destroyed and ate the inside of the stator. I'm going to use the PDF u attached to help with disassembly and assembly.

Question. Does the impeller shaft ride on something in the stator? Like a bushing or bearing? Mine has nothing left for me to know what it should look like.
 
I serviced my jet drive earlier this year and yes there is a bearing in the stator that carries the drive shaft and an oil seal at the outer.
 
If I purchase a new stator assembly, are they pre lubricated? I'm replacing both my wear ring and stator on my M2 240 efi in my 03 utopia. I had a two SS bolts fail and the impeller ate the wear ring and the seals bushings were destroyed and ate the inside of the stator. I'm going to use the PDF u attached to help with disassembly and assembly.

Question. Does the impeller shaft ride on something in the stator? Like a bushing or bearing? Mine has nothing left for me to know what it should look like.
I think that’s what happened to my utopia. What were the symptoms of that? Thanks
 
The drain screws for the gear oil are similar to an outboard. I do not remember there being an inserted magnet.

No, stators do not come pre-lubed. There are plastic bushings in the stator for the aft end of the pump shaft. I don't know if new stators come with bearings and seal.

You will need 2 quarts of Mercury High Performance Gear Oil to change stator and gear oil. It has additives to keep it lubricating, even if it gets water contamination. Hand pump makes it much easier. Wal-Mart for oil and pump.

Make sure you get the proper 2 (different) o-rings for the wear ring.
 
I am going to chime in on this thread because I would like to change my transfer case oil on my Challenger M2 240 jet pump. I found the two screws and I have all the knowledge on what to use etc. my big problem though is that the drain and vent plug are stuck/ corroded in place. They won’t budge. Who ever thought a flat head screw drain plug was a good idea? Seriously? Not only are they stuck but now the flathead plugs are stripped out on top.
I could drill a pilot hole and then use the screw extractor bit - but those break sometimes. I think the transfer case, that houses the 90 degree pinion, is made out of aluminum. Only other choice is to weld the screwdriver to the top of the plug and hope the aluminum doesn’t disfigure or melt. What should I do? I simply just want to know if there is still oil in there, but there is no sight glass or way to check the level. I can see why they stopped making these.
 
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Ya I hear ya I got one out and the other is seized think it was Tim 75 mentioned that he used a scissor jack under the screwdriver and got it with vise grips I'm trying that tomorrow
Very useful post Thank you
If I get them out going with allen keys back in
 
Could not for the life of me get them out. I decided to drill them out. I drilled pilot holes first. Then I upgraded to 1/4” then to 5/16”. They were so freaking seized in there I had no choice. When I got to 5/16 the 3/8 inch plug crumbled out. I’d say there was about 75 percent of the female thread left on the pump. I used the pipe thread sealant and I think she’ll hold. Try this if you are stuck. Be precise and don’t be scared.
 
Looks like that's what it's gonna be I tried the scissor jack trick didn't strip but wouldn't turn with a wrench on it.
Don't understand why the left this so long seized and stripped... O well not anymore
 

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I have recently changed my gearbox oil and checked the stator oil on my new-to-me 2001 Utopia 185 200 DI.

Newbie question: What do you folks do as far as leveling the boat/engine/jet when you change your oil or check fluid levels? I am OCD so I leveled front-to-back and side-to-side based on the ride plate, but not sure that's the best strategy...

When I removed the fill plug from the stator, oil flowed out freely for a bit. So perhaps my leveling was not so good, or the previous owners leveling was not so good.... in any case I was just glad there was oil in there :)

Thoughts on leveling the boat for service/storage? Cabin deck, rear deck, ride plate? Stop overthinking?

Thanks in advance,
Tony
 
Hello.
I have a 2003 Utopia 205 and am trying to change the gear oil. Everything has gone well with the exception that I cannot remove the stator in spite of lot of trying. I have removed the 4 bolts and the screws holding the trim plate as per the manual. I have tried gently banging on it with a rubber mallet but it will not budge. The service manual seems to indicate that the stator and trim plate come out together so I have not removed all trim plate screws as per the manual.

Any suggestions as to how I can get the stator out? Do I have to remove the trim plate separately?
Thanks
John
 
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