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Gap Between Seals on drive shaft after install

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TowerDog

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Installed another motor in my 96 GTX 787. I believe the motor I installed was out of an XP but still a 787. I installed the drive shaft, slid the splines all of the way into the PTO. Installed the C-Clip and Ring Seal Carrier, rubber boot with the Ring Carbone in it. I now have a gap in between the Ring Carbone and Ring Seal Carrier that lets in water.

I aligned the motor with the alignment too, I did have to swap out the PTO from my original motor to the new one because the drive shaft attachment to the PTO was a different setup. Is there a possibility the PTO is spun onto the motor more on this new motor compared to the old one causing the drive shaft to have slid towards the motor more ? It is still sticking out of the rear of the ski enough to attach the pump, although I did not try installing the pump yet. I looked at the manual, I am not missing any pieces that I know of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


photo.jpgphoto.jpg
 
slide metal sleeve down and install c clip

note, some shafts have multiple grooves
 
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also, make sure that you have both rubber bumpers on each end of your driveshaft, cause if the one is off the pto end, driveshaft will go into pto and give you a gap also
 
The C-clip is installed, the metal sleeve does slide over the c-clip a little. In the line above it does show the sleeve stopped at the c-clip. Is that the correct install ? I did not check the bumpers, I will putt it out and check. That maybe the answer. Thanks !
 
I took the bumper off the rear of the shaft, it was missing on the PTO side, it did slide the shaft back a little but the rear boot still has some play in it, back and fourth and does not seem like it is a tight as it can be. Does the metal sleeve slide over the c-clip and stop about 1/4 of the way ? That's the only other thing I can think of to keep the metal sleeve putting pressure on the rear boot.
 
It looks like you have the stainless ring on the wrong side of the c clip

Edit** well now looking at the pictures again I'm not sure. You definitely should not have a gap like that though, you will sink immediately
 
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Its on towards the rear of the ski, if the ring slides it slides towards the front of the ski until it hits the c-clip. Its not putting enough pressure back towards the rubber boot. I can pull the rubber boot back by hand an easily create a half inch gap between the two metal rings
 
take another picture, and like i said in previous posts, there may be an additional groove to put c clip and make it tighter also ... and is the bumper good, or wore out, like half the size ???
and if it is sealing, there is only some pressure on it, we all can move our boots back, the boot acts like a spring to hold pressure on it, if it is touching the carbone seal, with some pressure, its probably ok --- push your metal sleeve back farther and look for another groove
 
Its a lot tighter now. That bumper was the problem, I didn't even notice those on there when I took it out. The seals are tighter now also, I tightened up the rear hose clamp and stiffened up the boot. Just those two metal sleeves touching doesn't sound like a very good seal. Thanks for the advice this is my first time swapping out a motor.
 
If that's the worst problem you have for a first timer, your doing great.

When you say metal sleeves(rings) touching, you mean the Stainless steel ring and the black carbon ring.....right??

There is no steel on steel in that driveshaft setup.

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Correct, The stainless steel and carbon seal are touching. I attached pic of the pieces I have. I pulled it back out. The stainless sleeve has 2 gromits inside of it, the carbon seal is flush against the stainless sleeve, the carbon seal is not tight around the shaft, doesn't seem like it is acting as a good seal to keep water out. I feel like I am missing something here. I am not too sure where this gromit goes, its a large gromit that only fits in the rubber boot in the ridged parts of the boot, doesn't seem like its actually doing anything. photo 2.jpgphoto 1.jpgphoto 3.jpg
 
If it is still not quite tight enough you can push the carbon seal out of the bellows about 1/4 inch and re clamp.
 
In your picture, there is an O ring. Put that O ring between the hull and the rubber accordion boot. That will push the boot forward a bit and put more tension the the carbon seal.

As far as everything else I see in your pictures it is all correct.

The carbon seal is not suppose to be tight around the shaft, the seal to keep the water out of the hull is that little bit of tension between the carbon seal and stainless steel ring. The carbon seal is stationary and the SS ring is what spins on the carbon seal when the engine is running.

There are 2 little O rings in your SS ring, those are there to prevent water from travelling down the shaft and past the SS ring.



 
just curious, with the seal slid forward on the shaft & the pump installed with both driveshaft bumpers in place, will the driveshaft slide front to back? is there any lateral movement?
 
Yes there will be some, but most of the movement will come from the jetpump. The jetpump is not tight with lateral (front to back) movement.
 
True, but I am curious if this ski has too much for some reason. maybe some wrong parts?
My 2-stroke skis don't have much movement in them. they are not under pressure from the pump by any means, but the shafts don't slide laterally all that much at either.
 
I know where your going with this. I question the amount of polished driveshaft showing in front of the SS ring. Mine do not have that much showing.

The simple fix is to slide that rubber boot forward and put 1 or 2 O rings in behind it. But it still doesn't explain the real issue.

Maybe there is to much front to back movement in the pump making the impeller to far away?

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Measure the driveshaft length minus the bumpers.
[MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION]---if you still have the pump out of your 99 SPX measure that as the GSX uses the same shaft. Confirm the c-clip location too.
 








The rubber boot is measured at 2 3/4". It is a used boot, so it is probably permanently slightly compressed compared to a new one.

 
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[MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION]

Nice pics--Zero driveshaft data, LOL. How's about a length and a distance from the short end to the c clip groove. I THINK the length is close to 18", IIRC?
 
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