Fuel Sender repair but bad reading

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jforest

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my GTXs as some of you have seen on my RESTO page. I was getting an open circuit reading on my fuel sender so I opened it up and repaired the F1 Fuse as everyone does. When I put my meter on it, I'm reading 133 ohms with the magnet on bottom (Empty) and getting 1.4 ohms with it all the way at the top (Full). Has anyone experienced this before. I'm thinking my fuel gauge would work fine since its repaired but obviously would probably read empty before it really is. I'm curious if I have too much solder.
 
This is not too much solder.

As you can probably see, there are a series of magnetic reed switches that are closed sequentially, by the presence of the magnets incorporated into the fuel float. Each of the reed switches is in series with a resistor corresponding to the value of fuel level and as the magnet position closes each one in proximity, the resistance value is changed, to represent the quantity of fuel remaining in the tank.

You can make a quixk test of this system by connecting the electrical terminal of the fuel baffle and watching the fuel gauge as the baffle is rotated from upside down to right-side up, the fuel gauge should read full scale while the baffle is upside down and empty as the baffle is oriented right side up.

That is, the gauge should sweep through it's range as the magnet is moved the length of the baffle, closing the reead switches in sequence.

If your final highest resistance reading with the float resting at the bottom of the baffle is too low, the gauge needle might not reach the empty position.

It's really not all that uncommon for one of these mechanical reed switches to "stick" closed occasionally, creating an erroneous reading. I've been able to "unstick" them on most occasions simply by rapidly moving the magnetic float from the bottom to the top thus actuating each magnetic switch sequentially, through a few cycles.

Give this a try, maybe it works for you too.
 
Thanks for the input. It isn't having a problem sweeping through the resistance but the ohm reading at the lower end is higher than the spec in the manual.
 
Okay, I see. Have you also tested the original fuel float? If the original magnet is making 2x bottom reed switches and new magnet is making 1x reed switch, lowest value will be higher than spec.

I will also add from my boating experience, it's always better if gauge indicates empty BEFORE tank actually is, I guess you will think it's funny but I'm telling the truth! :)
 
I used both floats and got the same result with each one. I guess I'm not going to worry about it too much right now, but you're right, it's better to find out early than it is late haha.
 
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