Fuel Rail Bolt Stripped...Help needed

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maestroz2

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I was winterizing my 2008 RXT this weekend and after fogging the cylinders and putting the 2 fuel rail bolts in the one seemed like it stripped. I tightened it by hand as much as possible so i don't think the bolt stripped. I am not sure if the sleeve that's molded into the manifold slipped or if the bolt itself stripped but i can not remove the bolt to even take a look.

Anyone run into this issue? And how did you fix it? Any ideas how to remove the bolt without grinding it off?

Thanks.
 
Not sure if you are still under warranty, but seeing you are an '08... you may be. I would talk to your local Seadoo dealer and try to make it their problem.
 
just tried calling them, warranty ran out may of 2010. I was planning on just using some epoxy or jbweld to put the sleeve back into the manifold my only problem is getting it out. I dont want to grind it off either because of the heat.
 
If you only put the bolt in finger tight or if there is any gap underneath it you might be able to put a flat tip screwdriver or something under the head of the bolt to apply upward pressure while turning the bolt to get it out. Just an idea but sometimes works. Good luck
 
Well, you gotta get a little creative then. You have to find a way to apply upward pressure while turning it, whether it be a razor blade tip you shove under it, use a pair of plyers to pull/turn, etc. I have faced many stripped out bolts and always seemed to find something handy to help pull it out.

If the bolt turns (not seized), "grinding it off" does not sound like a good solution.
 
I've run into this several times. It's the knurled brass insert molded into the plastic that strips. If you use a high speed impact, the bolt will come right out, you don't need to worry about upward pressure. Fixing it is not so simple, I've tried several repair methods to no avail but each time I come across one while winterizing I just use the impact and it comes right out, then carefully tighten normally even if it won't fully tighten, it's tight enough and just holds it in place. Have done an '02 GTX 4tec for like 6 years now with no issues.
 
Do the threads on the brass insert strip, or is is the actual insert that strips from the plastic?

Feels like the insert coming loose from the plastic.
 
Yes, the knurled brass outer surface breaks free from the plastic but is still held firmly in place due to the knurled pattern on the brass so you can not pull it out at all without major destruction. The knurles just create circular grooves that allow it to rotate. Zip it out with a high speed impact, the intertia of the fast spinning bolt won't turn the brass insert and out it will come in 1 second. There's no visible gap really created between the insert and the plastic so I don't think you'll be able to get and JB Weld or epoxy in there.
 
Ahh i see.

The fuel rail is sitting tight for now, i will probably just wait until the next winterization to do something about it.

My first thoughts were to drill some small holes perpendicular to the insert and try to inject some epoxy in the sides.

Thanks for the help, i really appreciate it.

Will let you know if i figure something out haha.
 
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