Found kawasaki tcw3 oil in skis. best way to fix?

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Zadriel

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So I buy these nice looking pair of 97 sea doo gti. They look brand new except for a little hull damage on one. But I think I can repair so I pay 3500 with a nice double trailer. Which I k ow is a little higher than book. But I look inside and the things look New! Guy claims he's had them serviced every year. They both fire beautifully and move water well on trailer and sound great. We could drop them as lake only allows jets on odd days this was an even day. They did let us back them in and start them.

I get home and start hull repair on the one. I'm ordering other stuff and decided I'll need oil. Had shown me this kawasAki jet ski oil he was adding. I don't know then it's tcw3 and that's a no no. So I'm reading online manual to find right oil. Shockingly I discover the prohibition of tcw3 oils. The more I read the more horrified I become. Who knows how long thus has been used? I ask and he says that's what they told him to use. So my post is a must h discussed question on here. I've read every oil post I could on here.

So, Question 1 is the jet ski version of kawasaki tcw3 any better?

2. Assuming the negative... is there a step by step in here to draining this crap and putting proper oil in?

I've alreAdy ordered two oil filters... assume I know nothing. What's the easiest way to do this the best?

Please help with how to identify what you are taking about. Ie, I did find out where the filter was. But I think this oil goes into more than the engine. Ease help me identify where and how to drain and clean etc.

Thanks in advance.
Zad
 
ive read everywhere its a no-no, but at the same time i have 2 friends who refuse to buy the right stuff, amazingly they having been running walmart brand tw3 oil for about 5 years now... me personally wouldnt try it, id drain the old stuff, pull the oil resv and clean it then start using the right stuff.
 
The tcw3 oil can't handle the rpms that the seadoos turn, you'll want to drain the tank and then you'll also need to drain the rotary valve cavity. It has a hose that runs to the block under the intake manifold, if you unhook it and can get it low enough to drain, or use a siphon pump to get the oil out. Clean out the oil tank, the injection pump has a bleed screw tha tyou can open to drain the oil that is in the feed line, then replace the oil filter, fill the tank with fresh API-tc oil and bleed down the pump. When you start it for the first time after this, run it on the hose for a minute or so with the oil pump lever pulled wide open to flush the tcw3 out of the injection lines.

Seems like a lot but so is replacing a motor.
 
Go to harbor freight, buy a fluid transept pump. It's like 7 bucks. Dunk it in your oil tank and drain that. Then unhook the return hose from the top of the oil tank, stick the transfer pumps hose inside of it and you can suck out all the remaining oil out of the system with absolutely no mess
 
I've been thinking... since the crankcase will have some of the older oil in it... Not a lot but some after draining. As will the oil tank. and even the lines will have some inside the lines even if completely drained. This means no matter how careful I am some of the older TCW3 oil will still mix with the new stuff.

Therefore... What if ALL I do is suck out the tank with a vacuum line. And suck out the return from crank case line with with same? Would this not leave me in approximately the same situation?

I'm changing the oil filter too... so those lines will be mostly empty also and the filter will be new.

Can anyone link a picture of the "oil pump lever" so I know what the heck I'm looking for?
 
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