Fixing 99 Challenger 1800

[Clivingston]

I have a 99 challenger that has two motors that are flooded. One motor was bought earlier this year and has a no fault warranty. I'm in the process of taking the motor out and have hit a wall. Im new at all this and working off videos and forums. Im to the point where i need to get the exhaust off but im having problems. I have removed the big clamp and all the hoses, loosing the boot that goes to the water tank thing. I have taken out the bolts at the manifold. Cant get it free. Im not putting alot of force bc there is alot i cant see or know so. Any input would be helpful in this process. This boat has two 787 rotax in it. one new under warrant and one orginal that will have to be rebuilt. project for another day. my plan is to just put a new motor along with the warranty one. Any advise on motor removal and install would be helpful.


And i just noticed that this is in the PWC instead of Boat, My bad, Dont know how to delete or move. Admin if yall catch it please feel free to do both.

 

[- BiRkS_]

Well i dont remember a big clamp on the 787 pipe... unless you are refering to the hose clamp at the end of the stinger. Well you should be able to loosen all the allan bolts, then get a pry bar and wiggle. wiggle and it should pop free off the exhaust manifold. A rubber mallet helps sometimes as well if it is really stubborn. To avoid a mess, I loop the RV cavity oil lines so it does not leak all over (clamp the input line and leave in boat, then take the return/vent line and loop down to the lower rv nipple. That also keeps debris from entering the rv cavity.

 

[racerxxx]

Take of the 3 screws and one but on the pipe to manifold, then look down and take the 2 Allen screws out of the spry bakery that hold that pipe to the magneto housing. Romine the house from the head to the pipe, remove the little house on that same pipe near the support bracket. Remove the big band clamp. That pipe is now ready to come off. Where the band clamp was that is silicone so that will be tough. Once you finagle that pipe off remove the lower stinger pipe, there are 2 screws that hold it to the engine case, get a mirror. Undo the rubber coupling clamps from the stinger to the water box, you might need to work a flat blade screw driver under the rubber/pipe to work it free.

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[USAF_Pride]

You can leave the exhaust on and remove the engine. Just remove the rubber coupling at the end of the pipe. Disconnect the drive shaft, undo the three mount bolts, and assorted lines, and it will lift right out. The shop manual has more detail on what I just described.

 

[racerxxx]

You can leave the exhaust on and remove the engine. Just remove the rubber coupling at the end of the pipe. Disconnect the drive shaft, undo the three mount bolts, and assorted lines, and it will lift right out. The shop manual has more detail on what I just described.

I did it this way on the 99 Challenger I repowered this spring and have vowed to NEVER do it this way again, EVER. The opening is so small to slip these engines out compared to our Speedsters, and I never did it that way on my Speedster. You need to lift the engine, rotate it 90 degrees and watch you don't clip the fiberglass and gelcoat, and the port engine is even worse. Perhaps I'm over anal on chips and scratches but it was like playing Operation, I was just waiting to get buzzed. I don't want scratches in my boat or one I'm working on. So when the time came to re-install everything I put the engines back in by hand and then installed all the lines (can't do it with the pipes on) then the exhaust.

 

[Clivingston]

Thanks for the advise. I removed the three allens and the big clamp and was able to get that section of pipe out pretty ease then removed the stinger. For some reason the exhaust manifold was a pain. I had to leave it on until i got the motor out. I thought I had missed a bolt but I didnt. Had to pry it off once i got the motor out. Got to get the flywheel off today and prep it to ship back to SBT. Any comments on these SBT motors. The other motor is done too and i want to just go ahead and put a new motor in it. Would one from SBT be fine or do yall have another suggestion. And the old motor worth anything, like can it be rebuilt? or is it not worth the trouble?

 

[Strizzo]

Sbt is quick and easy, and you might be able to save a bit of shipping by combining the two.

 

[Clivingston]

We'll they paying for shipping on the one warranty motor. I'm sure I would have to pay for the other. Just curious if their motor good enough