engine bogs/dies when in water, fine out of water
- Thread starter abinbigd
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I called some places, and all of them suggested the normal "check for spark, check for fuel" and then said if it isn't those, then bring it in because it is too hard to diagnose over the phone.
I'd suggest you take it in. One shop said that it could be impeller problems, another said intake. Just plain hard to tell without getting the hands dirty...
I'd suggest you take it in. One shop said that it could be impeller problems, another said intake. Just plain hard to tell without getting the hands dirty...
I had a 55o Kawasaki do this on me.
It was fine when runing with the hosepipe attached.
But in the water suffered from overheating and failed to perform.
When attached to the hose pipe the water preasure cools her down.
In the water the preasure from the pump fails to keep it cool.
Blocked pipe or worn pump.
Hope this helps.
David.
It was fine when runing with the hosepipe attached.
But in the water suffered from overheating and failed to perform.
When attached to the hose pipe the water preasure cools her down.
In the water the preasure from the pump fails to keep it cool.
Blocked pipe or worn pump.
Hope this helps.
David.
I have similar problem with my 99 GSX RFI and I took it to the shop. After a week they look at it on the Friday night and come back with this reason: the back cylinder does not run and it is the engine that needs to be running if the craft in the water. This sounds strange to me.
hmmmmmmmm?
Trying to read through what you wrote for a description, sounds like the mechanic is saying that you got a dead cylinder. In a way, there's truth to that. If there's no shaft torque on the engine (water resistance from the pump), then 1 (or 2 depending on engine) cylinder is capable of running the engine and to the untrained ear, it would sound like it's running fine! .....but as soon as you put it in the water and the motor is put under a load from shaft torque, the engine has obvious signs or sounds that tell you something is wrong. The same is true with compression.....that's why it's such a good idea to check it before you buy......an engine can have low compression on one or more cylinders but hooked up to a water house, will sound like it's running like a brand new one.....put it in the water and put a load on the engine (torque ft. lbs.) and the engine will bog and probably die on you.
Check, check, check .....compression.....!
Trying to read through what you wrote for a description, sounds like the mechanic is saying that you got a dead cylinder. In a way, there's truth to that. If there's no shaft torque on the engine (water resistance from the pump), then 1 (or 2 depending on engine) cylinder is capable of running the engine and to the untrained ear, it would sound like it's running fine! .....but as soon as you put it in the water and the motor is put under a load from shaft torque, the engine has obvious signs or sounds that tell you something is wrong. The same is true with compression.....that's why it's such a good idea to check it before you buy......an engine can have low compression on one or more cylinders but hooked up to a water house, will sound like it's running like a brand new one.....put it in the water and put a load on the engine (torque ft. lbs.) and the engine will bog and probably die on you.
Check, check, check .....compression.....!
Compression
If the shop said that you had no compression in one of your cylinders, then yes, you either need to rebuild the entire engine or replace it with a remanfactured one.
I'm not a jet ski enthuasist so you might solicit from those who ride PWC's, is it cheaper/feasible to just remove the jug (cylinder head) and re-do the rings or is it best to just do the entire engine? I'd have to let someone else answer that one for you.....
If the shop said that you had no compression in one of your cylinders, then yes, you either need to rebuild the entire engine or replace it with a remanfactured one.
I'm not a jet ski enthuasist so you might solicit from those who ride PWC's, is it cheaper/feasible to just remove the jug (cylinder head) and re-do the rings or is it best to just do the entire engine? I'd have to let someone else answer that one for you.....
Captain Rick
New Member
Rebuilt experience talking and have many friends in the racing industry.
Never replace a single jug, it will cause the engine to go out of ballance.
Do it right the first time, just replace the engine and be done with the problems.
Rick
Never replace a single jug, it will cause the engine to go out of ballance.
Do it right the first time, just replace the engine and be done with the problems.
Rick
Replace the engine??? It depends on the damage. If it can be honed and re-ringed than all is fine.If the cyclinder is too bad off and needs to be bored to
.10 or .30 over, It can be bored out, if you bore out all the jugs to be the same size. It is cheaper and that's how the cylinders are made so they can be resized to correct any damage. Ask the repair shop for their advice, after they evaluate the damage.
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