electrical problem 2008 speedster

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peter x2

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The lights on the display, the nav lights, the radio, and the switches ( lights, bilgepump, blower) stopped working,
so i was fooling around with the battery connections and the main battery on/off switch, and when i turn that one,
i see the display backing lights flicker for a moment, and then it's al dead. Only the engine does start and run.
There's also a 12v socket, next tot the start switch and that has no voltage on it too, so it must be something
with the battery on/off switch, so does anyone know what i should do/check next?
 
Not sure what size speedster you have, but on the 2004 200 that i had, those circuits were all fed by a fuse panel that sits under the flip up windshield behind the instrument cluster. That panel was fed by a wire that connects to the main battery switch. I would make sure you have the wires connected to the battery switch, then check that fuse panel. Make sure it has power coming into it, then check each fuse.
 
Not sure what size speedster you have, but on the 2004 200 that i had, those circuits were all fed by a fuse panel that sits under the flip up windshield behind the instrument cluster. That panel was fed by a wire that connects to the main battery switch. I would make sure you have the wires connected to the battery switch, then check that fuse panel. Make sure it has power coming into it, then check each fuse.

i have the 215hp speedster
there's a thick black and a thick red wire going to that fuse panel you mentioned, and i checked
them by adding a extra wire to the negative on the battery to the strip were al the negative wire come together, and nothing happend, but then i hooked that wire tot the positive on the battery and
hold the other end to the positive connection on that fusebox, and everything works again,
so it must be that red wire then, but why does it work for a split second when i turn on the battery switch?
If that wasn't the case, then i would say that the red wire has broken somewere, but it's not,
so could it be in the switch itself. like burned in contacts?
file:///C:/Users/gebruiker/Downloads/General%20System_150%20Speedster-Wake_Wiring%20Diagram_SD%20Boats%2007-08-09.pdf
Here you see two red wires going from the battery switch to that fuse panel, but i found just one
thick wire going to feed that fuse box
 
If you could post a pic of the fuse block and suspect wiring/connections, that would be helpful so we can see what's going on.

When you're jumping straight from the battery to the fuse panel, you're eliminating the battery switch correct? If I understand you correctly, then you need to start by confirming power from battery to the fuse box.

Without a wiring diagram to confirm, I'm going to assume you have a hot from the battery to the battery switch, then from there you have another hot going to the fuse panel. When you jumped as I think you did, you eliminated these items and everything worked.

I'd bust out the multi-meter or test light and confirm you have power to the battery switch, then out of the battery switch up to the fuse panel. Somewhere along the line you should have no power or possibly too little power (for whatever reason) based on what you've said so far.

Check these things out and let us know what you find.
 
i'm going to my boat right now, so i'm off for a while.
that fuse box in the pic is fed by the red wire, and that has no power on it, so i'm going to follow
that wire, and the wire diagram shows that it runs to the on/off switch, so i'm going to check that out
 
i found it. It's a cirquit breaker that is not shown on the wiring diagram.
It's sitting right next to the on/off switch. The reset lever is broken so i'm going to try to drill
a tiny hole in the shaft were the lever comes on, and look if i can find a tiny screw that fits in there
and add some glue at the same time, and then it should work, because there's no force on that
lever when you have to move it, but first press the red pin, because that takes the pressure of
the lever.
Nice boat, but to work on it is a nightmare
 

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I said cirquit breaker but it's a thermal switch. I tried to fix it but it didn't work,
so i just going to buy a new one because i found out that they are cheap, so it's
not worth the hassle to fix this one.
 
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me too, because now it's just a plain standard thermal breaker, so no computer shit and faults
that need a nerd with laptop to solve. And i don't understand why it needs a 35amp thermal switch,
because it's only for the lights, radio, bilgepump and blower and nothing else, and al that
doesn't suck that much power. Now when it would be hooked up to the starter motor from the engine,
then i could understand it, because that's the only thing that needs alot of amps.
 
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