Driveline question

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Gary pope

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I’m in the process of rebuilding a 97 sea doo gts with the 717 motor in her. I noticed that when I took the carbon ring off of the driveshaft that there was just a rubber o-ring that was preventing it from coming off. On my 01 there is a c-clip around the driveshaft instead of an o-ring. So I guess my question is should there be that o-ting there or should there be the c-clip?
 
The o-ring was replaced by the c-clip on the later models. I replace all mine with the c-clip as it is stronger.
 
Gotcha. Looks like I’ll be ordering a new c-clip...
I’m also rebuilding the carb on it, in the manual it says the pop off pressure should be set at 23-43 psi... I currently have it set at 26 I believe..but I’d like to get it higher closer to 33 or so.. how do I go about it? I’ve tried bending that little lever that goes over the spring....
 
If its within the pop off pressure specs, i would run it. If you feel like you need to increase it, theres different springs that come with the rebuild kits. Did you get a rebuild kit?
 
Just set the arm level with the body like the picture in the manual shows. A single edge razor blade is a good guide. Use the correct stock spring. As long as the pressure is within the range it’s fine. More importantly you want both carbs the same pressure and a slight bend of the lever can be used to get them within a psi of each other. Don’t be too concerned with increasing the psi as popoff is just a measurement and not how they actually run. When they are running you have the diaphragm actually opening them not fuel pressure like when you measure popoff.
 
Careful to not have that spring arm bent up too high, as the diaphragm can actually press down on it a little, and you'll never be able to fully close the needle. Had that issue once on one of my skis. Flooded the engine with fuel once. Too low and it'll never open the needle enough to run properly. Most people recommend to keep the spring that it came with, provided it was running well before.
 
OK I finally got it to 33 PSI, it only has one carburetor on it also. Now I am having a hard time finding a piston ring set for it, the boar measures 82.25 mm, does anybody know where I can get a set of rings the size?
 
I usually search ebay. So long as you stick with a good brand and correct part numbers, it's usually the cheapest place to buy parts.
 
Those are Wiseco 720 0.50 overbore pistons. The rings for them are part number 8250LF. Make sure you also get new piston pin clips number CW20. You also have to let Wiseco pistons warm up much longer every time you ride before you hammer on it but they are good pistons.
 
I have reused rings but if you aren’t replacing them why did you take them out?

Piston pin clips are a 1 time use item. They weaken from heat cycles and when taken out can loose their tight fit. If they come out you will have a catastrophic engine failure. Never reuse them.
 
The reason I took it apart was because when I got the ski, I didn’t know much about it so I I thought it was a good time to make it my winter project and pull the motor apart and go through it. The reason I took the rings out was because when I was inspecting the pistons & rings, one of them was seized so it broke.
 
If it was seized absolutely replace it. Typically it will take out the ring groove on the piston and even a new ring will get stuck again. Might not be worth chancing it.
 
Since I found out that I have wiseco pistons, can I use any piston rings or do I have to use wiseco piston rings?
 
Wiseco pistons have different type of ring from WSM, OEM and SBT. You have to use Wiseco. Break one of the old rings and use a piece to clean the ring grooves before installing the new rings. You can put the rings into the cylinder and tap them down about 1" using the piston. Measure the ring-end gap to know if you can re-use the rings. If I ever have the pistons out, I always put on new rings on principle (unless I know they're new). It would suck if you got different compression between the two cylinders.
 
No, no RTV on anything except the copper pipe joint washer. Follow the manual exploded view and it will tell you exactly what product to use on what part.
 
OK quick question, I got it all put back together with all new gaskets and seals getting ready to shoot it with a coat of primer and then paint, and I’m getting ready to pressure test it. When I pressure tested do I pressure tested through the rotary valve or the spark plug hole? I’m guessing the spark plug holes right
 
No, through the pulse line that would connect to the fuel pump on the carb.

Only go to 8 psi.
 
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