DESS post replacement maybe?

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RicosMix

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Hey Guys, it's getting to be that season again. I just got a new wakeboard! :hurray: Anyway, last season my 1998 Challenger 1800 wouldn't turn over, but I got told to clean the DESS and key, so I did, and it ran great all summer. Now it's doing the same thing, but cleaning it isn't helping at all. Matter of fact, I replaced the beeper (It was a dead puppy) and tried the 5 presses trick and it gave me a short beep then a long beep. Attached my lanyard and pressed the start button, and nothing. Even with the lanyard attached it did the same thing after 5 presses, short beep, long beep, and that's all it does. Does this sound like the DESS post needs to be replaced? And if so, what's the best place to get one? Thanks in advance Guys.
 
I would start by cleaning the Post on the safety lanyard. It is beeping and saying it isn't connecting to the Mpem, (Multi Purpose Electronic Module) It needs to beep 2 times to let you know it is ready to start. Clean the post and cap with soapy water. Don't use any grease of lubricant on it as it needs a clean connection to make contact. Connect the lanyard to see if it is making a connection. 2 beeps and it's ready to fire up.

Engine start/stop switch verification;
Disconnect the Yellow/Red wire of the start/stop switch. Using an ohmmeter, connect test probes to the Yellow/Red wire and to ground. Measure resistance, it must be an open circuit (switch is normally open). Depress and hold switch, the ohmmeter should read close to “0” ohm.

Safety Lanyard Switch Verification;
If 2 short beeps are not heard when installing the safety lanyard, disconnect the switch wires.
Safety lanyard removed;
connect the test probes to switch Black and Black/Yellow wires. It’s an open circuit, there should be no continuity.
Connect one test probe to the White/Gray wire and the other test probe to the switch terminal. Measure resistance, it should be “0” ohm. Connect one test probe to the Black wire and the other test probe to the switch ring. Measure resistance, it must be close to “0” ohm.
Safety lanyard on switch; connect the probes to switch Black and Black /Yellow wires. Measure resistance, it must be “0” ohm.
Timer Verification;
The timer is integrated into the MPEM. Always confirm that the fuses are in good condition. To confirm operation of timer, remove the safety lanyard from switch. After 5 seconds delay, depress start/stop button once. The timer should stay on for 33 seconds (for example, the gauge(s) will be activated) and than turn off.
Here is all the info on the DESS codes. It is possiable that you are getting a mixed code.
DESS Codes/ Beeps
2 Short beeps …the engine is ready to start
1 Long beep …no communication to MPEM
4 Short beeps… (on Jet Boats) Shifter is in gear
8 Short beeps…defective MPEM
1 Continual beep…engine over heating


Advanced Self- Diagnostic Mode


By pushing the start/stop button 5 times, you’re putting the DESS in advanced diagnostics. When you have successfully done this, you'll hear 1 short, 1 long beep then, put on the lanyard cap. The engines should start if everything is ok.

2 Short beeps means MPEM can’t read the lanyard cap or it has bad magnet. It could be a bad wire connection at the Lanyard switch.
2 Long beeps means wrong lanyard or bad connection of DESS connection
3 beeps signal the wiring harness of the DESS switch are grounded, or a short circuit somewhere.

You may have a bad connection in your wiring harness, from corrosion. Go through your electrical systems connectors and check for corrosion. Clean them with some contact cleaner, then die-electric grease.

To listen to the codes again start from the beginning.


I hope this helps.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
You're right Karl, it seems that it's not getting to the mpem. When the lanyard is on it's not detecting it. I have two lanyards, both worked last summer after cleaning them and the dess post, but cleaning them didn't work this time. When I press the start/stop switch without the lanyard, the gauges do time on for about 30 seconds. Start/stop switches register ok with an ohmmeter. The only beeps I get are one short then one long and only in dess diagnostics mode, and no beeps after putting on the lanyard, but then only thing I haven't tested resistance on was the dess wiring. My new dess post should be here before the weekend is over, but until then I'll try that last test. But as of now, the absolute only beeps I get are the short and long after 5 presses. Does it sound like I'm going in the right direction?
 
OOPS...I didn't see I posted the same information yesterday...then it posted twice tonight...I wasn't trying to bust your bubble...My internet connection is slow tonight with my son grabbing all the band width uploading to youtube. I get impatient waiting for the site to load...that's it keep hitting the post button...again..again..again...:ack:

Let us know how you make out, were here to help, not aggravate.
Karl
 
LOL! It's all good Karl. I figured something like that happened. I've done the same thing before and posted twice. That is some good info on the dess though and I appreciate you posting it for me in this thread. I'll keep you up to date on my progress, and I know alot of us here would be completely lost without this site, so thanks for being here for us.
 
Replace the post....

You need a new post, part #3 http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_JB.asp?Type=13&A=23&B=27

The reason why is kinda simple. When you go into the advanced mode, you get the one long, one short beep. This is a signal the MPEM has your DESS system in advanced diagnostics. Now, the next step is for you to attach your ROM (read only memory) chip, which is your lanyard, to the post. Once the communication to the mpem has been established, you'll either get another series of beeps, in which it will identify either wrong lanyard, bad MPEM, etc.....but, you have to establish the communication lnk first. Your post is not allowing this to happen. Even if it was a bad lanyard, you would get at least one long beep.

Replace your post, it's just a bit less than $100 bucks (which buying it here supports the forum) and install it yourself. It's' very simple to do. You do not need to re-program for replacing the post, only the lanyard requires that.

Then, put the lanyard on your new post and start it up and go have fun!:cheers:
 
Thanks Snipe, I got a brand new one on the way for $50. Had I known at the time buying from Riva would have supported the forum I would have paid the difference because I've gotten well over that in help from here. Now that I know, next part I need comes from Riva. Thanks a lot Guys.

:cheers:
 
Thanks Snipe, I got a brand new one on the way for $50. Had I known at the time buying from Riva would have supported the forum I would have paid the difference because I've gotten well over that in help from here. Now that I know, next part I need comes from Riva. Thanks a lot Guys.

:cheers:
I did not think that there was a difference in cost. Was there? :confused:
 
Riva....

When the part is sold through the forum, Riva has a price reduction for our members. This price is only good online. If you call them on their international phone number, you'll notice it's about 10% higher.

A small precentage (I think the admins said 3%) of that going to Riva, is donated to the forum for the exposure............so, yes.....Please, the next time you need a part, please use our link above. Using that link is registered with Riva, that's how they keep up with it.

Your purchase through the Seadoo Warehouse is the best way to help us, helping you.............:cheers:
 
The post was the problem. Replace the beeper and the dess post and problems solved. I get the correct beeps now and it cranks and runs. When the engines get warm though sometimes one or both will die during idle, and it takes a minute or two, but they both will crank back up. Does that sound like the carbs need to be rebuilt? Also, when we landed at the pier a dumbass friend of mine puts his hand on my passenger side windshield to push himself out of the boat and cracked the top of it off. Go figure. He's gonna pay for it, I just need to find one. That same morning when everyone was meeting at my house to go boating, another "friend" ran over my mailbox with his truck. Then the very next day my wife fills her Acura TL up with diesel. :nopity:

PS - And this is my 13th post here. If you guys don't hear from me for awhile then someone chant and throw down some chicken bones.
 
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Damn Rico...if i knew you were hav'n that kind of party, i would've stuck my d***, in the mash potatoes.....:rofl:

Check the carbies, homey, especially the excellerator fittings, make sure they're cleaned out and make sure adjustments to lsa/hsa are correct.:cheers:
 
From your description it sounds like your rotary valve cover are worn out. Check the rotary valve clearance. Spec is .010" - .014". Once it gets past .016" and when the engine is warmed up, you will experience a rough idle, stalling at idle, and very hard starting.

Chester
 
"When the part is sold through the forum, Riva has a price reduction for our members. This price is only good online. If you call them on their international phone number, you'll notice it's about 10% higher."


You guys should make that more visible on the forum, Ive been a member for months and had no idea, plus Riva is 20 min away from me, I order there all the time:)
 
I'm still here! We're going out again this weekend. Anyone coming along, don't eat the mashed potatoes, lol! Ok guys, carbs and rotary valve clearance. I'll start researching these. Thanks as always. And keep Timmy away from the food. :)
 
I'm still here! We're going out again this weekend. Anyone coming along, don't eat the mashed potatoes, lol! Ok guys, carbs and rotary valve clearance. I'll start researching these. Thanks as always. And keep Timmy away from the food. :)

:lols:....good one, slick.
 
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