02 RX DI Engine Rebuild

[statikuz]

Alright, I got a new M6 x 25mm (manual has typo) 12.9 screw for the air compressor connecting rod. The manual says "install a new screw and torque ... do not apply any threadlocker product" and then says "the new screw will have the proper threadlocking coating."

Well I don't feel like paying $7 plus shipping for a screw I got at Ace for $0.99. The old threadlocker was red. Can't I just throw some new red threadlocker on it per this thread and be done?

 

[statikuz]

Alright I mailed the injectors off today so that'll be awhile before I get those back.

New air compressor piston crankpin screw installed with red threadlocker

Cover back on:

The compressor was already really clean, just scraped off that bit of sealant, cleaned threads of mounting holes with tap and reinstalled:

 

[WaarrEagle]

Are some of these pictures not working for others? I am preparing to rebuild a DI motor and would like to see them.

 

[mikidymac]

I don’t see them either.

 

[statikuz]

None of them?! How come nobody said anything even after I wrote in this photo or that photo... thank you someone for finally saying something. I'll fix them tomorrow.

 

[WaarrEagle]

Some of the early pictures work. On my end, they stop working on post #12.

 

[jhjesse]

Thought it was just my iPad.

 

[statikuz]

Alright all the photos should work now and the posts will probably make a lot more sense now that you can see what I'm talking about.

Turns out you can't hotlink Google Photos images unless they are in a shared album - but of course they will show up properly for yourself.

I have a ton more pictures and will probably write up something more comprehensive when I'm all done and I can say that it works.

 

[mikidymac]

If you use the Tapatalk app you can upload photos directly from your phone or tablet.

 

[statikuz]

Yeah now that I figured that quirk out it should work fine. I mostly post from my computer.

 

[statikuz]

Does anyone have an engine alignment tool I can rent for a reasonable amount?

I'm not really jazzed about paying $200 to rent it from SBT. Yeah I get they refund $75 but its $40 in shipping both ways so that basically eats that up.

Also for anyone else that reads this Southbay Fuel Injectors charges $35 an injector for cleaning (I didn't know they were "Optimax" injectors?) not $20 for Marine like it says on the website so just be aware.

 

[Boyd12]

Alright, saga continues!

Received impact (that thing works great for $80).

Apart:

Crank and counter balance out. I could not find any bits of grit in any of the bearings and they all spun smoothly by hand so I opted not to replace it. I called around and nobody does rebuilt OEM cranks anymore and I didn't feel like buying a whole new one. I only put about 5-10 hours a year on them so that's a risk I'm willing to take.

Icky:

Cleaned! Scrubbed them in a Rubbermaid tub with hot water and Simple Green and they turned out real nice. All the bits that look like grit in the photos were just bits of sealant material, I didn't find any metal in there at all.

Bad!

Good!

Reassembled. Yes I know in the photo the counter balance shaft bearing lubrication hole is not up like it should be but I fixed that. All the pins where they should be, alignment marks on crank and shaft aligned, gear oil added to gear cavity, grease on lips of end seals.

Found at the only powersports place in town, they also had Yamabond but everywhere I read said this was the ticket. I struck out finding a foam roller (no crafts places here) but I used my finger and it worked OK.

Got it all put back together and torqued down per the manual. That Loctite threadlocker stick is amazing. I just put a bit of dielectric grease under the bolt heads in lieu of the Molykote 111 it calls for after reading a bunch of threads about that.

Question - in the instructions for reassembly of the air compressor it says to use a new screw. Can I just find a new M6 x 45 screw and use that or is the Seadoo one magical? Alternately, should I get the whole compressor rebuild kit?

Also should I bother with sending the injectors for testing/cleaning? I'd like to know what caused the failure in the first place if I can.

Still waiting on top end from Full Bore - they finally emailed me back to let me know they're closed until August 13...

Dont forget to do a leak down test once you have it assembled!

 

[statikuz]

Still waiting on the cylinders from Full Bore. At first it was 3 weeks, then they were out of town but it was "when we get back" and then it was "should be this (past) week" and I haven't heard anything since...

Is there a good thread on what supplies you need to pressure test? I've read the manual but obviously it's written to use the factory pressure testing kit so it's not super helpful. I know I can get PVC or freeze plugs for the throttle bodies, and you can (?) pressure test with the RAVEs in rather than blocking them off too, but it seems I still would need to make a plate with a fitting for the exhaust manifold, right?

 

[Boyd12]

Is there a good thread on what supplies you need to pressure test?
"I know I can get PVC..." 1.5 inch PVC plugs worked for me for the throttle bodies,
"and you can (?) pressure test with the RAVEs in rather than blocking them off too" I did it with plates the first time then tested it with the RAVEs in to make sure they didnt leak. I would suggest RAVES in.
"but it seems I still would need to make a plate with a fitting for the exhaust manifold, right?" yes, see below.

If you test with the throttle bodies in, watch for leaks at the air sensor and pressure sensor. BOTH of mine leaked pretty bad.
The SeaDoo spec is pressure test to FIVE pounds and it needs to hold pressure for three minutes. the page form the manual is attached.

Good luck!

Here is the exhaust plate on ebay New Can-Am Exhaust Plate OEM Part Number 296000027 | eBay

 

[mikidymac]

I think @racerxxx was making block off kits at one time.

 

[statikuz]

Hey thanks for the reply. Guess I didn't research that far enough to figure out I could buy the plate I needed so I drew my own and had a guy make it! I will watch out for leaks at the sensors.

Finally heard that my cylinders were on the way back, 47 days later.

 

[statikuz]

Can anyone help explain what all the o-rings I got in my gasket set are for? It's this one:

WSM - Your Hard Parts Source

I have 2x RAVE gaskets, 2x RAVE valve o-rings, 2x RAVE piston o-rings, and 2x fuel injector/head o-rings.

I don't know what the three smallest (lower left) and two biggest (upper right) ones are for.

I thought a couple might be for inside the RAVE valve but they are not.

Other sets like this one:

Top End Rebuild Gasket Kit Sea Doo 947 951 DI Direct Injection GTX GSX XP LRV RX

...have what I would expect, including the o-rings/seals for inside the RAVE valves (the green ones).

 

[jhjesse]

I have never used them. Might check the o rings on your fuel rail hoses. Not sure if that is what they are for or not. I usually order those separate.
Make sure your cylinder and head bolts have the plastic sleeves. If not, use a gasket sealer on the under side of the bolt heads. Prevents water intrusion.

Very important to make sure the head gasket is the correct one as there are several different ones. My luck usually is the incorrect one and I have to either send it back or just purchase the correct one.

 

[statikuz]

I cleaned the old blue coating off the cylinder bolts so I used blue loctite on the threads and under the bolt heads per the manual.

What do you mean correct one? I just used the one that the gasket kit came with. I don't have the stuff to do the precision combustion chamber volume measurement like the manual talks about...

 

[jhjesse]

No there are 6 port heads earlier models and 5 port heads later models. WSM and a couple other companies have been known to put carbed 951 head gaskets in the DI kits or the wrong port head for your year model. That all.
If you gasket matched up then you are good. If you have the wrong gasket (happens a lot) it would not match your head.

 

[statikuz]

Ah okay I see what you mean. Yeah it matched up all around so I guess it's the right one? I guess I could take it apart again to check - if it was the wrong one it wouldn't fit at all?

 

[jhjesse]

Ah okay I see what you mean. Yeah it matched up all around so I guess it's the right one? I guess I could take it apart again to check - if it was the wrong one it wouldn't fit at all?

Correct no need to disassemble

 

[statikuz]

Alright this is progressing along now.

Cylinders installed - getting them over the pistons wasn't as hard as I thought. Blue loctite on the threads and under the bolt heads.

Got the head on as well. I did not coat either gasket with anything - I read here and there and everywhere and everyone seemed to have an opinion on what to do so I just followed the manual. If it leaks when I test it then maybe I will try something else.

Grease (I used that Super Lube silicone stuff in lieu of the fancy Molykote) on the threads and blue loctite (the gel stuff is neat) under the bolt heads.

All the bits to build my pressure tester should show up tomorrow so once I get the exhaust manifold bolted back up I should be able to test.

 

[statikuz]

Got it all put back together and sealed up with some homemade block off plates.

Pressure test leaked all around the head gasket - I think I will try using the spray copper sealant and see if that fixes it. I used the gasket that came in the WSM gasket kit from Full Bore. My head isn't in the best condition so that could be a culprit but I'm trying to avoid spending $100+ on a used head. Any other ideas or considerations?

Bottom/top end pressure tested fine (thank god), held 5 psi for ~10 minutes.

 

[Boyd12]

FYI SD spec is 5lbs for three minutes. also, do not go over the 5 lbs!
Did you make sure the head was not warped, bowed, or twisted? It should be FLAT. If not, you could be in for trouble! Good luck!