Charging system- Yet another Question

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turbosl2

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Again, i thank all of you for your help while i try to recondition my new purchase (2003 challanger M2 Carb).

Today i put a meter on my battery, 12.88 volts with key on engine off, fired it up for about 10secs and gave her a couple revs and never saw the battery voltage move.

My question is, does it take a min for the charging system to work (e.g. voltage regulator sense the voltage and close the circuit)? Or does this happen instantly. I am a mechanic and in the automotive industry the charging system works instantly. This is the 15amp system without an alternator

If the system is not charging what do you guys see as the fualt normally? Voltage regulator/rectifier? Or does the windings on the stator usually go bad. I am not sure how the windings are wired, i have consistant spark on all cylinders, is this tied to the stators windings for charging as well, leading me to believe the voltage regulator is burned up.

Thanks
 
Again, i thank all of you for your help while i try to recondition my new purchase (2003 challanger M2 Carb).

Today i put a meter on my battery, 12.88 volts with key on engine off, fired it up for about 10secs and gave her a couple revs and never saw the battery voltage move.

My question is, does it take a min for the charging system to work (e.g. voltage regulator sense the voltage and close the circuit)? Or does this happen instantly. I am a mechanic and in the automotive industry the charging system works instantly. This is the 15amp system without an alternator

If the system is not charging what do you guys see as the fualt normally? Voltage regulator/rectifier? Or does the windings on the stator usually go bad. I am not sure how the windings are wired, i have consistant spark on all cylinders, is this tied to the stators windings for charging as well, leading me to believe the voltage regulator is burned up.

Thanks
It should be almost instant.
There are specs here as the resistance of the alt. Windings, tested at the connection to the regulator. Disconnect to test.
I have found that the Merc OEM regs do not get warm, but aftermarket ones do.
Charging a battery with internal short will heat the regulator, possible eventually killing it.
 
It should be almost instant.
There are specs here as the resistance of the alt. Windings, tested at the connection to the regulator. Disconnect to test.
I have found that the Merc OEM regs do not get warm, but aftermarket ones do.
Charging a battery with internal short will heat the regulator, possible eventually killing it.

Thanks Tim, I just tested the voltage regulator and it apearrs the diode test in the service manual indicates it failed. Its is supposed to be about a few hunderd ohms according to the book but i have megaohms and climbing. Reverse the leads for the second test, the other diode test indicates 40k - infinity in the book and i have mega ohms that decrease steady so i am hoping. Not sure what the two different diode setups are inside the VR and why reversing the leads yeild opposite results. I hope the book is not misprinted and i didnt spent $150 on a new regulator for nothing.
 
Anytime you test a diode with ohmmeter will show different values when you reverse the leads (polarity). That is the procedure to test a diode.
Water analogy: diode is a check valve.
 
Understood, however the procudure has a value of ~400ohms with leads one way, then you reverse and its 10k - infinity. Seems odd you would have significantly diff values in the procedure by reversing the polarity. one would think its behaving as it should, ohms climbing one direction and decreasing the other
 
So maybe a capacitor in one direction but not the other. Seems weird the manual has two diff values
 
She’s charging again with the new regulator. However the funny thing is booth regulators test bad according to the M2 manual. Like I said above I think their manual has an error
 
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