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Changing 2 cycle oils, 1998 GTS.

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kybishop

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I have no idea why my first thread went to an invalid link all the sudden.

I recently purchased a 98 Seadoo GTS and it came with Quicksilver TC-W3 2 cycle oil in it. I am going to change it out to this Mystic JT-4; http://www.mystiklubricants.com/do/product/SMALL_ENGINE/663076002

More info; http://docs.mystiklubes.com/msds_pi/M20077.pdf

I am looking for a write up or information on the best way to go about draining the old. What sequence and what lines to drain. Also how to re-fill without doing damage to the engine and components.

Thanks for any help. Now lets see if I can keep this link alive...
 
It's a glitch in the software. I just told Greg to turn of the "Auto Moderate" system, because I spent 20 minutes trying to get your other thread to show up.

I'm sorry for the problems.

Give me a minute, and I will post with a real answer.
 
I don't think there is a write-up on it... but it's not hard.


If you have a suction pump... use that to get the bulk of the oil out. if not... follow below.

1) Pinch the hose at the oil filter.
2) Remove the hose at the filter, and put a sutable container under it, and remove the pinch.
3) Once the tank is drained, remove the hose under the manifold. That will make a mess, but you need to get the oil out of the RV cavity.
4) let it drip for a while, and make sure there isn't any oil hiding in the corner of the oil tank.
5) Replace the oil filter, and put the hoses back on.
6) Fill the tank with the new oil
7) Open the bleed screw on the oil pump, and let the oil flow to get the air out of the feed hose.

That's about it. More or less... just drain and re-fill.

BUT.... I would also recommend replacing the small injection hoses if they show any sign of deterioration. If you do that... after you bleed the feed hose... start the engine, and let it idle, while you hold the pump arm in the "Full" position. You will see the oil pulse up the hoses about 1/8" every 2 seconds. It will take about 30 seconds for the small lines to fill.
 
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I don't think there is a write-up on it... but it's not hard.


If you have a suction pump... use that to get the bulk of the oil out. if not... follow below.

1) Pinch the hose at the oil filter.
2) Remove the hose at the filter, and put a sutable container under it, and remove the pinch.
3) Once the tank is drained, remove the hose under the manifold. That will make a mess, but you need to get the oil out of the RV cavity.
4) let it drip for a while, and make sure there isn't any oil hiding in the corner of the oil tank.
5) Replace the oil filter, and put the hoses back on.
6) Fill the tank with the new oil
7) Open the bleed screw on the oil pump, and let the oil flow to get the air out of the feed hose.

That's about it. More or less... just drain and re-fill.

BUT.... I would also recommend replacing the small injection hoses if they show any sign of deterioration. If you do that... after you bleed the feed hose... start the engine, and let it idle, while you hold the pump arm in the "Full" position. You will see the oil pulse up the hoses about 1/8" every 2 seconds. It will take about 30 seconds for the small lines to fill.


Insterad of opening new thread - on 1995 GTX where is located the bleed screw - I can't see the oil pump from above but can feel screw right after the oil line is getting in to the pump - is this the bleed screw? and if yes what size wrench to use for it since it is in very tight spot

Thank you
 
I thought I posted on this thread before I left for work this morning, I guess it didn't take.

I was going to tell you to that on your ski the oil pump is located under the carbs., do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the carbs. You only need to remove three fuel lines, leave the control cables hooked up and just lay the carbs. in the hull. This way you can see what you are doing and you can also see the small oil injection hoses. I would go ahead and replace them with 3/32" tygon fuel line, I get mine at ACE Hardware, use cable ties for clamps.

I know this sounds like extra work, but it's almost an impossible job without removing the carbs.

BTW, Do you ever ride at Herrington Lake, we've been riding every Friday, we leave from Sunset Marina around 10:00-11:00, if you can play hookey from work sometime let me know.

Lou
 
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I thought I posted on this thread before I left for work this morning, I guess it didn't take.

I was going to tell you to that on your ski the oil pump is located under the carbs., do yourself a favor and go ahead and remove the carbs. You only need to remove three fuel lines, leave the control cables hooked up and just lay the carbs. in the hull. This way you can see what you are doing and you can also see the small oil injection hoses. I would go ahead and replace them with 3/32" tygon fuel line, I get mine at ACE Hardware, use cable ties for clamps.

I know this sounds like extra work, but it's almost an impossible job without removing the carbs.

BTW, Do you ever ride at Herrington Lake, we've been riding every Friday, we leave from Sunset Marina around 10:00-11:00, if you can play hookey from work sometime let me know.

Lou

Yes, I like to play hookey.

How crowded is it on Friday during the day?
 
On Fridays Herrington is not crowded at all, that's why we like Fridays. We head for the other end of the lake which is practically deserted.

Lou
 
The oil system is drained, just waiting on my oil filter to come in.

I have a rattle at idle too. Thought it was the cone on the jet pump. However after inspecting mine, my teflon pusher in the cone appears to be in great shape. Everything looks okay back there. If anything, the oil was low. I will fill with new oil and see if that takes care of it.

What do you guys use to seal the threads on the oil fill plug for the cone?

Also, on the other various bolts do you guys use the blue thread locker or red?
 
A ratting in a seadoo pump is normal. Don't worry about it, because you can't actually get rid of it.

I use regular fuel system, thread sealant on the fill plug.

I use blue thread locker on most of the hardware on a jetski.
 
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