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bogs after running

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les morgan

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My wife was given a 95 GTS about 2 months ago. It had been sitting for
about 2 years without being used. We cleaned it up and filled it up with oil
and gas (adding marine stabil) and everything ran fine for about a month.
Now it will run great for about 1-15 minutes and then seems to go to about
1/2 throttle. If you let it idle for a little while it jumps out of the hole like
everything is all right but then drops down to 1/2 throttle again. I have
replaced all the grey fuel lines and added sea-foam to the fuel but the
problem persists. Any thoughts? And it seems like the longer you let it
sit or idle the longer it will run great.


Thanks
' Les
 
You have a fuel circulatory problem either in the selector, separator, bafel filters, or
the carbs need cleaned and filters. Its fuel related. Bills86e

Also you MUST now replace the two 1/8" X 6 1/2" long oil lines from the injection pump to the rotary valve nipples. They get brittle after 3-4 years. Then leak and
engine siezes from no oil lubrication!
 
removed the fuel filter and found almost no debris in the filter. Also replaced t
the plugs. When replacing the fuel lines I found no gunk in the lines.
 
Clean the filters

running an engine lean will result in......KaBOOOOM! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=30&B=19

You do not have duals, but applies:
Get a large can of carb cleaner. I used this to clean the internal filter screens...it can clean one in about 30 seconds.
Here's detail tricks on the carbs: Remove the cover, diaphram, and check valve block over the jets. Spray carb cleaner into the pilot jet, with the tube connected on the carb cleaner can. Look into the carb throat, and you'll see three microscopic holes and one larger one off to the right that has carb cleaner coming out when you spray. After spraying initially, get someone else to slip their finger over the large hole to increase pressure to the three small holes. You will actually see the streams getting larger as the cleaner cleans out the varnish in the holes. This step is critical, if you want to have crisp throttle response on the bottom end.
Spray carb cleaner into the main jet too, but don't look into the carb while doing it unless you want it in your eyes!
Make sure you spray carb cleaner through the hose barbs, in and out. Remove the needles to get good flow through the inlet barbs.
Synchronize your carbs! 90% of the time one butterfly opens more than the other, reducing performance, max rpms, throttle response, and fuel efficiency. Use a flashlight, and lay an inspection mirror in the carb throat. Open the throttle wide open, and visually line it up with the atomizer. Then check the other butterfly the same way. Zip-tying the throttle to the grip keeping it wide open makes it easier. Use 2-8mm open-end wrenches to break loose the locknuts on the coupler between the carbs and rotate accordingly to get the butterflies the same position.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think I can speak for all who use this forum and say thanks for the knowledge your sharing. On that note, can both carbs be done while mounted on the engine?
 
another question

I finally got the sea-doo out of the water today, wind has been blowing
20-25 for the last week and made it impossible to get to the launch with
the way the ski is running. I got the flame arrestor off and am down to
the carb. Question is there is a cable running to the bottom of the carb,
what is it for and how do you remove it ( I have removed the choke cable
and the throttle cable). I have looked and cannot find a set nut on the
cable to remove it. Also where are the two oil lines that you recommend
to replace and what size hose will I need to replace them?

Thanks
Les
 
Runs from carb to injection pump throttle lever. That regulates amount of oil as you
give the ski more throttle.
Read post #2, and your shop manual, and search the parts microfiche. Seadoowarehouse.com or HLSM.com. Bills86e
 
Same problem!!

My wife was given a 95 GTS about 2 months ago. It had been sitting for
about 2 years without being used. We cleaned it up and filled it up with oil
and gas (adding marine stabil) and everything ran fine for about a month.
Now it will run great for about 1-15 minutes and then seems to go to about
1/2 throttle. If you let it idle for a little while it jumps out of the hole like
everything is all right but then drops down to 1/2 throttle again. I have
replaced all the grey fuel lines and added sea-foam to the fuel but the
problem persists. Any thoughts? And it seems like the longer you let it
sit or idle the longer it will run great.


Thanks
' Les


I bought a trailer with two 95's on it. Dude said they have not been used for a little over two years as well. Did the same you did( Oiled and gassed). Ran fine for about an hour..ish. Then i got the half throttle bog. Took them home tore some shit apart. Found theres a TINY filter in the Carb and it was pretty haggered looking. I mean tiny, about the size of a pencil eraser. Figured that had to be my prob. Cleaned them both out real good on both and even took the tank out and cleaned them too.Took them back and dumped them in the water and everything worked out fine.
 
I find 99% of Seadoo problem/complaints are fuel related. Cable lugs, starters, ect.
batterys, leaks, gauges, est combine to other 1%
 
next comes trial run

I finally got the carb off and taken apart. Found the small filter in the
carb to be very clogged up. Cleaned filter with carb cleaner and blew
out the main and secondary jets with the cleaner. I have everything
back together and ran on a water hose, seems to run fine but will have
to get in the water to make sure. Of course the wind is blowing here on
Bells Island (naturally) so I dont know if the wife will want to try it out
today when she gets home from work, but I will let you know the results.

Thanks in advance,
Les Morgan
 
doublecheck to make sure, the oil pump arm, is facing somewhat down, to the hull. If not, you got it hooked up incorrectly, which will lean ur motor and destroy it.

If pump arm is good, then prior to launching, hook hose up to ski, fire everything up, and while holding 5500rpm, get a voltmeter to test the battery. make sure its reading 13.5-14.5 volts, if so, then go launch. If not, if #'s are higher/lower then replace the rectifier.
 
YUP :agree: Use a mirror & light to see the injection pump alignment marks, use
the cable nuts to re-align if needed. Bill
 
I did not disconect the oil pump cable. I just removed the bell crank from the
carb and laid it aside. Then reinstalled the bell crank after cleaning carb.
 
I did not disconect the oil pump cable. I just removed the bell crank from the
carb and laid it aside. Then reinstalled the bell crank after cleaning carb.

the minute you remove the cable from the carb, the arm will spring around, since its pre-loaded.
 
thank you, thank you, thank you

Put the ski in the water Friday afternoon and it runs great..... Wife has
probably put 20 miles on it Friday and Saturday. So I thank you for your
great advise. Also my wife thanks you and my yellow lab thanks you (He
is learing to ride with the wife), and gods in his heaven and all's right with
the world.....
Les
 
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