Bilge Pump

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

LouDoo

Premium Member
Premium Member
I've noticed over the last few days we've had a few cases of SeaDoo's partially sinking, or at least getting enough water in the hull to cause damage, in at least one case it looks like a motor replacement.

Last weekend I made a bone head mistake and forgot to screw in one of the drain plugs, the bilge pump saved my a$$ that day. I have them in all my ski's. Bailers are marginal at best and do not work at all in no wake zones, or when docked.

It's not expensive, about $65.00, and fairly easy to install. Cheap insurance.

If there's any interest I will be happy to share how I installed and wired the bilge pumps.

Lou
 

Attachments

  • 100_0596.jpg
    100_0596.jpg
    624.2 KB · Views: 454
  • 100_0586.JPG
    100_0586.JPG
    919.1 KB · Views: 482
  • 100_0510.JPG
    100_0510.JPG
    263.7 KB · Views: 448
  • 100_0511.JPG
    100_0511.JPG
    210.6 KB · Views: 452
  • 100_0509.JPG
    100_0509.JPG
    269.7 KB · Views: 440
Last edited by a moderator:
It's a good idea. I have them in all my toys over the years. My big Polaris has a "Constant Duty" pump. It just turns on whenever the engine is running.
 
Im very interested in knowing how you have yours installed and tips. I will soon be installing one in my 03 GTX SC. Im thinking of connecting straight to the battery, with in-line fuse, so it will always be active without the lanyard and putting a switch on it for when trailered. Im debating between buzzer or strategically placing the outlet so I know if there is a major leak. In the buzzer solution I would wire in a float switch mounted at the same level as the top of the auto bilge pump, and tied to a buzzer. That way it only goes off if the bilge can't keep up. In the strategically placed solution i would place the outlet so i can either see/feel it spitting water and know when its running too often. This solution would require that I keep an eye on it though. Suggestions or thoughts?
 
I am also very interested in this ... also maybe we can use this thread as a place where people can show where they mounted their pumps and thru-hull fittings, and also show others how they have them switched.
 
Actually the installation is pretty straight forward. I used a Rule 500 PWC self sensing bilge pump. It senses for water every 60 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Rule-PWC500-Automatic-Bilge-Pump/dp/B0000AZ6U8

Pick a spot on the hull to locate the bilge pump, locate it low in the hull, I located mine near the bailers. I simply glued it to the hull with some locktite silicone seal, clean a spot on the hull with acetone before gluing the base to the hull.

Wiring: I connected mine directly to the battery using a 3 amp fuse in the pos. line and I also wired a toggle switch (SPST) in the pos. line and locate the switch in a convenient place.

For the discharge I went with function over form, as you can see on my 96GSX straight out the rear, and the 96GTI toward the rear (probably not the best place because it discharges into the footwell) I keep a piece of 1/2 heater hose and when I leave the ski over night I use the hose to discharge out the rear of the ski.

The bilge pump in the XP was already installed and actually it discharges below the water line, I personally wouldn't have done it this way but as long as you loop the discharge hose above the water line it's O.K.

A couple of notes, I installed the power switch in order to switch off the bilge pump when not in use, so as not to run the battery down. I checked around the internet and Rule now makes a small pump with an internal float, so it would only power on when there is water in the hull. This would make the switch optional. If I were doing it today I would use the bilge pump with the float, but I would probably still use the switch.

http://www.amazon.com/Rule-25S-Automatic-500-GPH-12-Volt/dp/B000O8B7R8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

You can get a kit with almost everything you need, pump, switch, wiring, discharge hose and thru hull fitting.

That's about it, easy ain't it.

Lou
 

Attachments

  • 100_0628.JPG
    100_0628.JPG
    889.1 KB · Views: 237
  • 100_0597.jpg
    100_0597.jpg
    705.3 KB · Views: 227
  • 100_0596.jpg
    100_0596.jpg
    624.2 KB · Views: 217
  • 100_0598.JPG
    100_0598.JPG
    968.5 KB · Views: 208
  • 100_0586.JPG
    100_0586.JPG
    919.1 KB · Views: 217
A couple more pictures.....

Lou
 

Attachments

  • 100_0630.JPG
    100_0630.JPG
    917.9 KB · Views: 237
  • Wonder Woman.jpg
    Wonder Woman.jpg
    27.4 KB · Views: 302
  • 100_0768.JPG
    100_0768.JPG
    873.4 KB · Views: 283
  • 100_0587.jpg
    100_0587.jpg
    767.4 KB · Views: 240
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for that reply Lou,

I will be giving this a go at the end of the month for my skis ... I have the rule 360gph manual pumps though, do you think the smaller pumps will affect much? I only intend to use these as a last resort and my skis are never left in the water unless they are being used.
 
A+, Don't leave shore without it! Get one of those 45* angled thru-hull fittings, mount it just under the gunwhale and point that thing up so when the pump kicks on it shoots that water up onto the air.
 
A couple more pictures.....

Lou

Lou,

Thanks for the pictures... I'd like a little info on how to wire my Rule bilge pump to the battery. I have a Rule 460 GPH that has 2 wires coming out; one is brown and the other is black. I bought a kit that came with all the parts and instructions, but the wiring instructions seem more complicated than necessary. I'm installing on a 1995 GTX.
Also would you recommend a rear discharge over a side wall?

Thanks,
Joe
 
It's actually fairly simple.

Connect the black lead from the bilge pump either to directly to the neg. battery terminal or ground.

Connect an inline fuse to the pos. battery terminal, use about a 3amp. fuse. The lead from the inline fuse goes to the SPST switch, connect the brown lead to the other terminal on the switch. Your done with the wiring.

A rear discharge would be best but there's not a lot of room, so you will probably need to make the discharge in the side similar to my 96GTI.

Lou
 
Lou,
I put 2 of them bilge pumps on my boat where the red circles are.
 

Attachments

  • zzz.jpg
    zzz.jpg
    70.9 KB · Views: 166
It's actually fairly simple.

Connect the black lead from the bilge pump either to directly to the neg. battery terminal or ground.

Connect an inline fuse to the pos. battery terminal, use about a 3amp. fuse. The lead from the inline fuse goes to the SPST switch, connect the brown lead to the other terminal on the switch. Your done with the wiring.

A rear discharge would be best but there's not a lot of room, so you will probably need to make the discharge in the side similar to my 96GTI.

Lou

Lou,
Not to sound too stupid, how do you connect to the battery -- just wrap wires???

Thanks,

Joe
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Greatly appreciate this post. After reading, I decided to give it a go. Did some research and contemplated several "pre-packaged" kits (from Seadoo and 'generic'). These kits were ranged from $90-$120.
I ended up piecing together myself for around $75 which included:
- 750gph pump with integrated float. I didn't really feel comfortable with a pure manual pump, or an automatic one that turned on at predetermined intervals. It is bigger than the Rule and other pumps.
87.jpg

88.jpg

89.jpg
My pump came with a float dial that allows you to turn the float to to the pump on directly from the pump.
- 3 way (manual/auto/off) switch w/10amp breaker. Really like the ability to turn on the pump or put it in auto mode and then turn off when storing. I installed in my GTI's glove box area - I don't believe it to impact storage too much.
90.jpg

91.jpg

- Hose kit. I used about 1/2 of the provided hose. Came w a white outlet port and clamps. Was about $10.
- Stainless steel outlet thingy (the above hose kit came w a white plastic outlet but I opted for stainless steel one, cost about $20, but probably could be found for cheaper. I just installed a speedtie kit so I put the outlet in the middle of the swim deck.
92.jpg


Other items/incidentals.
I'm admittedly a little OCD so it took my time and spread it over 2 days (total of 2 hours). I used liquid electrical tape on all if the electrical connections/terminals, and then shrink wrapped and bought 10ft of split wire loom to route the wires.
93.jpg
94.jpg
95.jpg
96.jpg


The pump snaps on to a base which I epoxied to the engine bay floor. This allows you to remove the pump to clean our the pump inlet, etc.
97.jpg
98.jpg


Works like a charm so far, and will be doing our Wake next week.
Thanks again for the info, I hope I can assist a fellow member as this post has helped me.
 
Whale 650 in an RXP

Nice write up. I installed a Whale 650 in my RXP and will be installing another Whale in the GTX in the spring. All electrical connections are soldered with heat shrink, the switch is mounted in the glovebox with the power directly from the battery with an inline fuse. I put the discharge fitting next to the tow hook, I got a black fitting so it would blend in.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0588.jpg
    IMG_0588.jpg
    651.9 KB · Views: 254
  • IMG_0589.jpg
    IMG_0589.jpg
    522.7 KB · Views: 251
  • IMG_0590.jpg
    IMG_0590.jpg
    533.4 KB · Views: 230
  • IMG_0591.jpg
    IMG_0591.jpg
    844.1 KB · Views: 234
  • IMG_0592.jpg
    IMG_0592.jpg
    561.1 KB · Views: 236
Very nice write up! I am definitely going to put one in my LRV and my 97 GTX. My wife forgot to put in drain plugs last summer when she took it out with her family, partially sunk our 01 Kawasaki 900 STS. Then tried to fire it up and sucked water and killed motor.
 
Nice write up and nice job installing it. I am also very anal and would have done the exact same thing in regards to the liquid tape and what not. Any in-line connections I always solder and then slide heat shrink over the soldered joint.

Nice job...
 
Thanks so much for the compliments. I would not have done without Loodoo and his original post.

For our wake 155 however, we went w a different switch for the glovebox that allows you to select the fuse amperage.

The original on our GTI uses a 10a breaker, too high for the pump, so I put in an inline fuse.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top