Added shut off valves for the rotary bath lines
- Thread starter Luv2Camp
- Start date
blackNyellow787
Active Member
That looks nice, just ordered a couple myself.
Luv2Camp
Active Member
Agree with you IF THE SEALS ARE GOOD!! My seals are not and for $7, it is no waste of money for my application!
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure it will leak an amount of oil that would cost more than the fix. the oil is fairly thin, however it's going to leak into the engine, providing more lube, but possibly more pollution. The valves are a realatively easy fix, however forgetting to open them will quickly result in a bad day on the water...
If I had a 787 with the issue, I'd have to examine the costs of fixing the valves. But I only work on 951s.
It would be interesting however if you could have a powered valve. Assuming you could trust the valve, you could have it such that it's open when the engine is running, and closed when the engine is off. something small like a relay could run a more powerful on / off 12v valve, but that cost may exceed the correct fix...
In any event, it's a fine fix for the home mechanic, that properly used, should work for years. All these ski's and engines are on borrowed time anyway... they have to be well over 14 years old...
If I had a 787 with the issue, I'd have to examine the costs of fixing the valves. But I only work on 951s.
It would be interesting however if you could have a powered valve. Assuming you could trust the valve, you could have it such that it's open when the engine is running, and closed when the engine is off. something small like a relay could run a more powerful on / off 12v valve, but that cost may exceed the correct fix...
In any event, it's a fine fix for the home mechanic, that properly used, should work for years. All these ski's and engines are on borrowed time anyway... they have to be well over 14 years old...
Luv2Camp
Active Member
Depends on how bad the leak is. My 95 GTX currently only leaks to the point where I can notice if it sits for a long period of time. During the summer, I get zero oil out of the exhaust and the ski sits for a week sometimes. There are some threads out there that as the seal starts to go bad, it will swell if the engine is used to the point where it does not leak or does not leak as bad. My ski has only 120 hours on it and not about to rebuild the engine for an issue I only see when it is stored for the winter. When it gets bad enough that I see it leaks oil into the engine during the season, I will make a decision on what to do with it...
I agree on the borrowed time but that is true on any engine as soon as you start it for the first time. The way I see it is if it ain't broke don't fix it and if it is broken, no need to do a fix that goes overboard (especially on an almost 20 year old motor!!!)
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
I don't see a problem with it. Looks good! Leaking inner crank seals are not going to shorten the life of the motor, or make in unreliable. Who knows, you might be able to run for many years this way. If you start burning a lot of oil, or see it smokes out the dock after sitting over night, then it's getting questionable as too how long you want to continue.
Leaking outer crank seals would be borrowed time for sure, but I don't see a problem with it. a complete rebuild on an older ski that runs great otherwise wouldn't be a smart investment. Your sure not going to get your money back on that deal.
Leaking outer crank seals would be borrowed time for sure, but I don't see a problem with it. a complete rebuild on an older ski that runs great otherwise wouldn't be a smart investment. Your sure not going to get your money back on that deal.
One point to make here...there is no reason to put a valve on the hose coming from the left side of the motor. Just put one on the the hose under the carbs.
I think the issue really falls onto your conscious for the environment. When theres oil running out of the exhaust outlet...its going into the lake.
Make sure the check valve on the oil tank is clear and working. Many times the issue here isnt the seals but actually the pressure that builds up in the oil tank. I have found on some machines just opening the oil tank cap to keep pressure building up will "fix" the issue.
I think the issue really falls onto your conscious for the environment. When theres oil running out of the exhaust outlet...its going into the lake.
Make sure the check valve on the oil tank is clear and working. Many times the issue here isnt the seals but actually the pressure that builds up in the oil tank. I have found on some machines just opening the oil tank cap to keep pressure building up will "fix" the issue.
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68ragtop
Well-Known Member
At first I was thinking the same thing as you seeing it's the vent/return line. But then I wondered if it might vapor lock the oil & prevent it from dripping past the seals with both lines closed? Kinda like holding your finger over the end of a straw full of water.
It might just a little but i also think if you close both off, air pressure would build on hot days and force it past the seals?
Lots of different ways to look at it I guess.
Lots of different ways to look at it I guess.
I'm moving this thread to the How-To section, I've used it twice in the last two days, it will be easier to find there.
I agree with Nick, the only line that needs to be pinched off is the feed for the rotary valve, as a precaution I have always pinched this line off for winter storage. I kinda figure, why tempt fate?
Lou
I agree with Nick, the only line that needs to be pinched off is the feed for the rotary valve, as a precaution I have always pinched this line off for winter storage. I kinda figure, why tempt fate?
Lou
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wfo speedracer
Active Member
Some of you may be interested in an oil solenoid valve kit I have been working on. Instead of the ball valve I am using a flow control solenoid that will go into the line just like the valve, this solenoid will operate off of the MPEM and will cut itself on when the machine cuts on and off when the machine cuts off.
It will come with its own harness and it will be plug and play into the existing wiring. I am still trying to decide if I can run it off the gauge circuit of the MPEM or if I need to run it off a separate AC voltage sensing switch which is why it is taking a while to get all the bugs worked out.
I plan on introducing it along with a few other Seadoo specific products I have been working on this Spring or Summer, the fuel line kits I posted up were one of those products.
It will come with its own harness and it will be plug and play into the existing wiring. I am still trying to decide if I can run it off the gauge circuit of the MPEM or if I need to run it off a separate AC voltage sensing switch which is why it is taking a while to get all the bugs worked out.
I plan on introducing it along with a few other Seadoo specific products I have been working on this Spring or Summer, the fuel line kits I posted up were one of those products.
I'am new to the forum and wondering if you have anymore information on that oil solenoid valve kit.
Brianh64
Member
wfo, what ever become of this?
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