Add on bilge pump for a GTX?
- Thread starter Arkie Bob
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I’m actually in the process of doing this right now. I’ve got all the stuff currently being shipped to me. I’ve researched a lot, looked at various pumps from various sites, browsed what is on amazon, and looked at A LOT of reviews. Most of the cheap bilge pumps you see on Amazon (Sea Flo, Amarine, etc) are Chinese made, and while most of them will only run you roughly $15 or $20, the general consensus is most of those will only last but a year. I decided on a Johnson Pumps of America 1250 Gallons Per Hour 12v pump, Ran me about $48. I wanted something that was made in america, had overall good reviews, was known for lasting more than just a couple seasons, and wasn’t just going to suck out a small water leak but would push some serious water overboard if I had a carbon seal go or a cracked hull from hitting something and needed to make it to shore FAST.
For the search on pumps, I made several (well, three, but all different sizes) cardboard rough models of pumps in the garage and my idea was to be able to see what size pump could fit in the engine area, and where exactly it could fit if anywhere. I used dimensions from manufacturers specs. Some tape, cardboard, and looking at pictures is all it took. Gave me heaps of info about what size pump I had to look for that would fit anywhere around the engine bay, and I WAS space limited. I’ve got a 17’ GTR-X230 and found one spot near the exhaust, and one spot near the inter cooler, both pretty much at the lowest parts of the hull which is where water will collect first and which is where you want to mount your pump.
After deciding I didn’t want a Chinese piece of trash that was going to die out in one riding season, and given the space I had to work with, combined with wanting a powerful pump in a small package, I opted for the Johnson 1250. The neat thing about the Johnson pumps is that if/when the motor dies out or you have to replace the pump, the motor units are replaceable and can be purchased without the housing itself. So, if my pump fails, I remove the motor from the housing and purchase a new motor and drop it into the already mounted housing unit that’s still in my ski. A 1250 gallon per hour pump will fit into the same housing as a 500 gallon per hour pump, and vice versa. Kind of neat engineering.
Mounting it is still up in the air. The guys that run the Youtube channel “3 FT Deep” have a video of them installing a bilge pump into a jet ski. They basically just zip tie theirs up to a bunch of stuff in their hull, which is probabaly what I’ll do, mostly. I think where mine will be, will be pretty snug up against some of the styrofoam material and heavy duty rubber hoses. I may add some rubber pieces to act as buffer and provide somewhat of a vibration reducer. I opted NOT to go with a float switch because I figured with as much playing around and throwing my ski all over the water, the float switch would just get destroyed from the float being flapped up and down so much. Maybe not, but i was paranoid about that happening so I’m just going to rig up a simple on/off switch that I can mount in my storage console and if I need to run the bilge, I’ll flip the switch and run for how ever long I need to run it, then shut it off. This will also make the wiring slightly easier and have one less component in an already crowded hull.
Check out some of the attached photos. The one spot I have picked out by the exhaust is actually underneath the large supercharger hose and provides just enough room for the bilge pump. Typing all that from a phone sucks. I’m going to bed. I’ll share some more photos once I start getting the thing installed end of this week.
For the search on pumps, I made several (well, three, but all different sizes) cardboard rough models of pumps in the garage and my idea was to be able to see what size pump could fit in the engine area, and where exactly it could fit if anywhere. I used dimensions from manufacturers specs. Some tape, cardboard, and looking at pictures is all it took. Gave me heaps of info about what size pump I had to look for that would fit anywhere around the engine bay, and I WAS space limited. I’ve got a 17’ GTR-X230 and found one spot near the exhaust, and one spot near the inter cooler, both pretty much at the lowest parts of the hull which is where water will collect first and which is where you want to mount your pump.
After deciding I didn’t want a Chinese piece of trash that was going to die out in one riding season, and given the space I had to work with, combined with wanting a powerful pump in a small package, I opted for the Johnson 1250. The neat thing about the Johnson pumps is that if/when the motor dies out or you have to replace the pump, the motor units are replaceable and can be purchased without the housing itself. So, if my pump fails, I remove the motor from the housing and purchase a new motor and drop it into the already mounted housing unit that’s still in my ski. A 1250 gallon per hour pump will fit into the same housing as a 500 gallon per hour pump, and vice versa. Kind of neat engineering.
Mounting it is still up in the air. The guys that run the Youtube channel “3 FT Deep” have a video of them installing a bilge pump into a jet ski. They basically just zip tie theirs up to a bunch of stuff in their hull, which is probabaly what I’ll do, mostly. I think where mine will be, will be pretty snug up against some of the styrofoam material and heavy duty rubber hoses. I may add some rubber pieces to act as buffer and provide somewhat of a vibration reducer. I opted NOT to go with a float switch because I figured with as much playing around and throwing my ski all over the water, the float switch would just get destroyed from the float being flapped up and down so much. Maybe not, but i was paranoid about that happening so I’m just going to rig up a simple on/off switch that I can mount in my storage console and if I need to run the bilge, I’ll flip the switch and run for how ever long I need to run it, then shut it off. This will also make the wiring slightly easier and have one less component in an already crowded hull.
Check out some of the attached photos. The one spot I have picked out by the exhaust is actually underneath the large supercharger hose and provides just enough room for the bilge pump. Typing all that from a phone sucks. I’m going to bed. I’ll share some more photos once I start getting the thing installed end of this week.
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Arkie Bob
Active Member
There's a spot on the port side between the jet pump tunnel and the hull that's like the pump I bought was made to fit. I think a bit of "Gorilla Glue" on the mounting base and the exposed fiberglass in that area will give excellent adhesion.
This past season I did have a small water incursion when sitting in the water. When running the OE water siphons kept it drained as designed, it only became a problem when setting overnight. That's why I'm only interested in an automatic switch. I have determined the leak is a worn carbon seal and I'm in the process of replacing it, rebuilding the impeller and wear ring, and overhauling the supercharger. While all that schitt is removed from the engine bay and out of the way is an ideal time for bilge pump install.
This past season I did have a small water incursion when sitting in the water. When running the OE water siphons kept it drained as designed, it only became a problem when setting overnight. That's why I'm only interested in an automatic switch. I have determined the leak is a worn carbon seal and I'm in the process of replacing it, rebuilding the impeller and wear ring, and overhauling the supercharger. While all that schitt is removed from the engine bay and out of the way is an ideal time for bilge pump install.
Not sure what is wrong with the cheap SeaFlo pump? So far none of them have failed with me (I have one and 4 clients use them). I testrun it every time I rinse out the engine compartment after every trip.
I use the separate automatic switch and have pump and switch installed close to the IBR as per 3FT youtube video. Think the best place is to locate is much as possible in the back as there is where the water collects when moving forward and reason why the bailer pick ups are installed there.
I would not opt for a manual switch as you will never feel that you have water coming in when driving fast. A good switch works trouble free. My suggestion is to install a loud buzzer over the pump so you hear when it is running. Others install the bilge outlet so that it discharges to your leg, a reliable solution too.
At the end of the day my opinion is that if you maintain your PWC and change/ check your carbon ring every year, a bilge pump is a nice add-on but knowing that your driveline is perfect gives me a better sleep than the add on of the bilge pump.
Investing in the alignment kit and floating ring tool will allow you to tackle this simple stupid job. It is a bit of a hassle the first time if you have never removed the shaft but if you remove your driveline every season, job is very easy. If your driveline never has been out the past 5 years while driving on the sea, you might be up for a little challenge
I use the separate automatic switch and have pump and switch installed close to the IBR as per 3FT youtube video. Think the best place is to locate is much as possible in the back as there is where the water collects when moving forward and reason why the bailer pick ups are installed there.
I would not opt for a manual switch as you will never feel that you have water coming in when driving fast. A good switch works trouble free. My suggestion is to install a loud buzzer over the pump so you hear when it is running. Others install the bilge outlet so that it discharges to your leg, a reliable solution too.
At the end of the day my opinion is that if you maintain your PWC and change/ check your carbon ring every year, a bilge pump is a nice add-on but knowing that your driveline is perfect gives me a better sleep than the add on of the bilge pump.
Investing in the alignment kit and floating ring tool will allow you to tackle this simple stupid job. It is a bit of a hassle the first time if you have never removed the shaft but if you remove your driveline every season, job is very easy. If your driveline never has been out the past 5 years while driving on the sea, you might be up for a little challenge
Arkie Bob
Active Member
Thank you for your input Rikky. I also think an auto switch is mandatory. As I've mentioned, my 05 has never had proper service due to it's previous owner and my current carbon ring install is it's first. It's a freshwater only use machine, so disassembly wasn't much of a challenge.
Good that you have a freshwater ski, less pain.
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