Accessible Battery Posts

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shamski

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In the process of reading about adding in a second battery to my 2003Sportster, and all sounds good. Like the Perko idea, and how it can be run.

One other need I would like to meet is being able to have an accessible set of battery posts without having to pop the rear cover, unload the gear, and take out the engine cover to get to the battery. I am fine with one set of posts off the AUX Battery and want to run inflater from it when needed. Occasionally tubes may need some more air on the water, or may head to a cove and want to inflate the Capri Island lounge pad. Most times I would probably hook my invertor to the posts and run my AC inflater from there. Have tried DC inflators and they just don't have the push of the AC one that I use.

Does this sound like something that is feasible? Or am I just talkin crazy talk.
If feasible, where would be the best place to place them -- thinking that it is safest in the rear storage where it is nice and dry. Or could I put them out somewhere even more accessible?

The other thought ... if I had external posts for one of the batteries would I be able to charge it from the posts; and if I turned the perko to both would it charge both of them off of a charger?

Just a crazy though late at night I thought I would ask about.

Thanks in advance,
shamski
 
I added a 12 volt receptacle inside the rear storage area. Wired to the battery at the switch. Then I also bought a charger that comes with a 12 volt lighter type plug. So I have the outlet to use whenever I want and I can also charge the batteries through it.Total cost for outlet and charger, 30 bucks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12-V...4261953QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ers+&+Boosters&prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=L9

I ran the positive of the plug to the battery post on the switch (both of them). Then the negative to the number 1 battery. I have the 2nd battery grounded to the first battery. The switch stays in the off position when charging. That way no electricity back flows into the boat, that is how you damage the MPEM.
I picked up the plug at west marine for 10 and sears has the charger on sale all the time for 18.
 
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I plan on doing a write up post on adding the 2nd battery with pics. I was going to bring the boat with me to work today and do it while I redo the trailer hubs, but the box UPS claims was dropped on my porch is MIA.
 
MIA Bad

Looking forward to the pics -- haven't fully decided where the 2nd one will be located -- cramps in that engine area. May just be easiest to have it close to the first one ... shortens the cable run requires as well between battery and the switch. Continued looking online last night and remote terminal posts complete with caps are a common thing in the auto industry. Looks like my plan is completely possible.

As to MIA ... that's not good. Found many a parcel sitting just outside my front door on the step for all to see -- nice I didn't have to drive to pick it up, but man if that camera had gone missing in the box, not so good.:(

shamski
 
Wiring

RFoster ... Want to make sure of the wiring for when you added your DC plug as I will probably emulate it in putting in my remote battery terminals as it sounds like exactly the setup I want.

Positive Remote Terminal would have two cables --- one going to each switch positive post (each battery).
Negative terminal would have a single cable connecting to the negative terminal on one of the batteries, and that battery would be then connected to the negative terminal on the 2nd battery. That second battery is also connected to the engine ground correct.
Ultimately both negative battery terminals grounded, and the positive terminals are in parallel -- I assume this then gets them sharing the current from a charger if I hook it up to my battery posts.
For all intense purposes the battery charger sees one large battery ... that's correct right.

Want to make sure i have it all visualized before I start wiring it up :confused:-- I have only to get the cables and figure out getting a level platform in the compartment for the second battery to be added -- given the slopage I am thinking I'll need some marine plywood and leveling blocks on each end to get some stability. Other than that all the other pieces are ready and waiting.

Thanks
shamski.
 
For the outlet, I ran 2 wires to the positive plug on the outlet. One to each battery post on the switch. Then for negative a single wire from the outlet to the negative post of the first battery. Since the 2nd battery is ground to the first, that was all that is needed. Works fine for me. I bought a 2nd outlet with the idea of adding it on the other side of the boat so they can charge individually, I just never hooked it up. It has worked fine for me like this.
 
Excellent thanks ... that will be tomorrows project now that I have my new Perko in and running. Sounds easy peasy -- just three more wires into the midst of the growing number of wires in the battery area.

shamski
 
Remote Lead

Guys,
I build street rods for other fun on the side. There are numerous parts for this in the custom car world. There is a company who makes electrical parts and harnesses called American Autowire. www.americanautowire.com
Here is an example of their battery posts. Can be mounted anywhere (pretty dry) to make it easier to get to a place to charge.
EXTERNAL BATTERY JUMP
START BLOCK
(Provides connection on outside of vehicle when
battery is not readily accessible or when reaching
to battery space becomes dangerous or diffi cult.
Can be utilized for fast jump start such as in racing
industry. Conductor posts are mounted on insulated
strip w/ polarity colored protective caps.).
500931 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39.00
http://www.americanautowire.com/catalogs/AAW_sections/AAW10_BatteryCable&Access.pdf
 
That's what I had to resort to Mikec1231.
Marine places didn't know what I was wanting, so had to resort to shopping some performance auto places to get them. In the case of the PDF you attached --- Page 3 500010 and 500011 -- those are what I have. Wish I had these though as their hole is a little smaller than the ones I'll be putting in.

Pretty dry for me in this case will be in my rear storage. I had thought of having them exposed but in a sealable case that could be opened (like a stereo headunit front case that opens), but would have to do more cable runs than I would like. The only time they will get used is charging at home, and inflating tubes on the shore and water (damn floating island we got is 10 x 12 and will take a while to inflate so bringing along my high output AC inflator).
 
Crap just noticed the jump start block you mentioned -- now that would have been sweet. Oh well, have the other ones now, but know for the next boat.

Thx.
 
I just use a standard 12 volt lighter type plug. Gives me an extra one at the back of the boat to use for pumping up tubes and also I charge directly through it.
 
Not

You should read the way that this charger/tender works. There is not another charger on the market that can function as a full charger, tender, jump starter, etc for this kind of money. Read and be enlightened...

This is not a 2Amp charger...


FEATURES & BENEFITS



Five step, fully automatic switch mode model.

Charges lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, Gel and AGM) from 14Ah to 225Ah.

Maintenance pulse charging increases battery life and gives superb performance.

Supply mode for float maintenance for 100 % state of charge.

Charges even drained batteries.

Pulse recover of slightly sulphated batteries.

Four options: 14.4V, 14.7V, 13.6V/Supply and 16V/Boost.

Low back current drain, low ripple and input voltage independent (85-125V).

High efficiency: 85%

Delivered with two interchangeable connection leads, one with clamps, and one with eyelet terminals.

The charger can be connected for months, ideal for seasonal vehicles.

Compact design with mounting holes for permanent assembly.

2 year warranty.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


FEATURES FOR SAFER USE



Electronic safe, the charger will not damage vehicle electronics. The battery does not normally need to be disconnected from the vehicle when charging.

Minimal gas build-up and a patent-pending spark protection system. (however, in supply mode the spark free feature is disconnected).

Short circuit and reverse polarity protected.

Double insulation.

Splash and dust proof .

Progressive temperature protection.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


CHARGING CHARACTERISTICS


The MULTI US 7000 has a fully automatic, five step charge, IoUoUp:




Setting: 14.4V or 14.7V

1. Start
Starting phase for charging. Charging with limited charging current. The starting phase is over when the voltage rises above 10.5V, at which time the charger switches to bulk charging.

2. Bulk
Charging where 80% of the energy is returned. The charger delivers maximum current until the battery voltage has reached the set level.

3. Absorption
Final part of the charge up to 100%. The battery voltage is kept constant at the set level, during which time the current drops gradually.


4. Pulse
Maintenance charging. The state of charge varies between 95% and 100%. A pulse is sent out to the battery if the voltage drops. This keeps the battery in trim when not in use. The charger can be connected for months at a time.


5. Setting: Supply
The supply mode setting supplies a constant voltage at 13.6V and current up to 7A. It could be used for maintenance charge using the float approach. This approach keeps the battery at 100% state of charge, but the constant small overcharge also increases water loss.


In this mode, the MULTI US 7000 can also be used as a power-supply unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. The spark free feature is disconnected in this setting.

6. Setting: Boost 16V/1.5A/4h


The Boost setting gives a constant current at 1.5A, maximised at 16V for four hours. It will automatically switch to 14.4V pulse setting after four hours.


This mode is used for batteries that have been severely discharged.

Using the MULTI US 7000 gives your battery an optimum service life and operational reliability.





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


BATTERY TYPES & SETTINGS


The MULTI US 7000 can be set very easily to charge different types of lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, GEL and AGM) and conditions. You will find an explanation of the various battery types under Charger University, Battery Types.

The MULTI US 7000 charges a wide range of battery sizes, from 14Ah to 225Ah.


SETTINGS EXPLANATION
14.4V Normal setting for wet batteries, MF and for most Gel batteries.
14.7V This setting is recommended for charging batteries at temperatures lower than -5 degrees C. It is also suitable for many AGM batteries.
13.6V/SUPPLY In this mode, the charger delivers a constant voltage of 13.6V. This is the best maintenance mode for applications where maximum capacity from the battery is important. The MULTI US 7000 can also be used as a power supply without a battery attached in this mode. No counter voltage is necessary to start the charger in this mode. Note that the spark free function is suppressed in this mode, the reverse polarity protection works but there is no indication.
16V/RECOND This mode is used to recover severely discharged batteries where you might expect stratified acid (high acid weight at the bottom, low on top). Note that the battery has to be fully charged first. Use this mode with care, as the high voltage may cause some water loss. 16V is normally no problem for electronics in 12V systems, although maximum effect and minimum risk for electronics is achieved by disconnecting the battery.


BULK CHARGE TIME
BATTERY SIZE (Ah) BATTERY SIZE (Ah)
20 3
60 8
100 12
225 25




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


TEMPERATURE PROTECTION


To protect the charger from overheating, the MULTI US 7000 is fitted with power limitation. The power reduces when the ambient temperature increases. The power also reduces if the charger were to be covered, which protects the charger from damage. The charger continues to work, but at a lower output. When the ambient temperature drops, the power automatically increases again.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


TECHNICAL DATA


MODEL MULTI US 7000
Input voltage AC 85-125VAC, 50-60Hz
Output voltage Nominal: 12V
Efficiency 85%
Charging voltage 14.4V, 14.7V, 13.6V/Supply, 16V/Boost
Charging current 7A max
Back current drain* :heart:mA
Ripple** Max 150mV rms, 0.3A
Ambient temperature -4°F to +122°F / -20°C to +50°C, output power is reduced automatically at higher temperatures.
Type of charger Five step, fully automatic IIUoIUp, switch mode with pulse maintenance.
Type of batteries 12V lead-acid batteries (Wet, MF, AGM and Gel)
Battery capacity 14-225Ah
Dimensions (L x W x H) 8.1/2x3.1/2x1.7/8inch / 191x89x48mm
Insulation Splash and dust proof
Weight 1.8lbs / 0.8kg

*) Back current drain is what drains the battery if the charger is connected without the power cord connected.
**) Ripple denotes the amount of interference there is to the current and voltage. A high current ripple heats the battery and shortens its life. A linear charger has a current ripple of 70 - 400% which is much larger than the maximum 5% for a modern sealed battery. Voltage ripple could harm other equipment, which is connected to the battery. The MULTI US 7000 delivers voltage and current with very low ripple. The battery gains a long service life and there is no risk of damage to other electronic devices connected to the battery.





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


MOUNTING


The charger is easily fitted in place using two screws.
The diameter of the mounting holes is 4.5mm located as shown in the image. The image also shows the dimensions of the charger.







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


EQUIPMENT


The MULTI US 7000 is delivered with two different battery leads, one with clamps and one with eyelet terminals, all colour coded for easy +/- identification.

If the battery is difficult to access, the lead with eyelet terminals can be mounted to the battery, and the quick connectors are located so that it is easily reached for charging.

You can also purchase additional leads allowing you to have one lead with eyelet terminals fixed to all your vehicles with batteries that are difficult to get at, and charge them simply from the same charger.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


ACCESSORIES


The following extra accessories are available for the MULTI US 7000:




Connection lead with eyelet terminals.

Available in diameters of 6.4mm or 8.4mm.



Connection lead with cigarette plug.



Connection lead with battery terminals.
 
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That does sound like an awesome charger but I think it is overkill for what we are doing here. My el cheapo setup gets the job done just fine.
 
And the project that started this thread is now done. Got the remote battery terminals installed, and ran them just like we talked about above.

It all works great --- charged both batteries up tonight before taking off boating tomorrow with no issues. Now I can use them tomorrow on the shore to blow up the U-Tube, 3-Man GT03, and the new Capri Island for those to lounge on while they wait (took close to 10 minutes to blow it up completely and there is no way it would get blown up and carried down to the lake (10' x 12'ish in size).

Problem solved.
Thanks for the help.

Look for the next thread on getting the Sportster decked out in molded diamond hydroturf which should get kicked off on Monday after the long weekend in Canada.
 
Charging plug wiring

I ran the positive of the plug to the battery post on the switch (both of them). Then the negative to the number 1 battery. I have the 2nd battery grounded to the first battery. The switch stays in the off position when charging. That way no electricity back flows into the boat, that is how you damage the MPEM.
I picked up the plug at west marine for 10 and sears has the charger on sale all the time for 18.[/QUOTE]

Note: If you have the charging plug + wire wired to both battery posts on the switch than you are charging and running your batteries in parallel in both Bat1 pos and Bat2 pos. This will be the same as putting your switch to the "Both" or 1&2 position.

I am going to wire my dual battery setup the same way but use a 3 way switch between the charging plug + and the two + posts on the battery switch. This way I can charge batt 1 or 2 or off. This way when running the boat I am in Bat1 or Bat2 position and only receiving power from the selected battery
I hope this makes sense and helps.
 
I ran the positive of the plug to the battery post on the switch (both of them). Then the negative to the number 1 battery. I have the 2nd battery grounded to the first battery. The switch stays in the off position when charging. That way no electricity back flows into the boat, that is how you damage the MPEM.
I picked up the plug at west marine for 10 and sears has the charger on sale all the time for 18.

Note: If you have the charging plug + wire wired to both battery posts on the switch than you are charging and running your batteries in parallel in both Bat1 pos and Bat2 pos. This will be the same as putting your switch to the "Both" or 1&2 position.

I am going to wire my dual battery setup the same way but use a 3 way switch between the charging plug + and the two + posts on the battery switch. This way I can charge batt 1 or 2 or off. This way when running the boat I am in Bat1 or Bat2 position and only receiving power from the selected battery
I hope this makes sense and helps.[/QUOTE]

Ya know, i never thought about it like that. since both batteries goto the charging plug, they are essentially both connected all the time. I initially was going to add a charging plug for each battery. I just got lazy. Guess I will drill another hole and add the other plug. Where you just talking about like a 3 way toggle switch?
 
One Plug two batteries

From the charging recepticle the - lead will go to - battery1 post which is tied to -battery2 post.
From the charging recepticle the + lead will go to the switch(simple 3 way toggle switch I got at local electrical supply store) the switch has on-off-on positions one on position will be wired to the battery1 lug on the battery switch and the other on position will be wired to the battery2 lug. I will be able to charge both batteries(one at a time) with the battery switch in the off position so no current is fed back into the MCP.
 
That would work fine. I will probably just use the other plug since I already have it. I will just have 2 plugs.
 
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