98 speedster oil pump

[scryc0268]

The nipple is cracked off my oil pump so oil is just running out.. Do I need to buy the assembly or just housing? Does it come pretuned or do I need to mark where it comes off? thks!

 

[Dr Honda]

Replace the pump. No reason to take a chance with that.

 

[scryc0268]

Can I replace without pulling the engine? Or is there an alignment? Is it just unbolt old, and bolt on new? Thks

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Normally, it's just a cable alignment. There are two marks to align, one on the pump lever with one on the pump body. Adjust cable so marks line up when the throttle is at idle position and check cable pulls pump lever as throttle is increased.

My pump has a bleed screw near the input port, to bleed air out of the supply line from the oil tank.

I think I'd replace the oil lines from the pump to the intake manifold if I were changing the pump, they're probably near rotten and split after these many years.

 

[scryc0268]

Think I'll have to pull the engine? Thks

 

[rjcress]

Think I'll have to pull the engine? Thks

I haven't seen the engine bay of a twin in person (my challenger is a single engine model), but I suspect you will be able to disconnect the cable, oil lines, and 2 mounting screws with the engine in place... and then put the new one on. Might need a mirror to see if your view is obstructed.

I would think worst case would be removing the stinger pipe to gain access... but not the whole engine.

 

[racerxxx]

No need to pull the engine, just remove the hatch. There are the two struts and 6 screws to remove it. You'll need a towel to put in the crack where the hatch recesses into when it's open(unless you don't care if it gets scratched), and two people. Contort yourself and fine the screws on the inside of the engine compartment that hold the hinges on and spray them with WD-40, then start to back the screws out, then once you can see the washers decompress from the hex head really load the screws with WD. The one at a time starting on the outer two screws slowly work them out all the whole going back and forth and spraying them with WD. You don't want to break one. The with the center screws still in both hinges take a small flat blade screw driver and wedge it between the strut cap on the bottom of the strut and just pop off ONE side, the remove the other side once the last center screw is almost all the way out. Some guys drive the pin out of the hinge but your space is limited and I don't use hammers on or near my boat. From there you can lay across the swim platform and get to the oil pump easily. It's held on with 2 screws with metric allen screws. Slowly take them out and remove the pump with the cable attached since it will be easier to get that off in your hands. You can lay a mirror right in front of the gas tank that lean against it and you can get a nice view of what you're doing. Not a bad job, I wouldn't do it with the hatch on. Then you'll need to bleed the pump and the lines before you start the engine. That is in the service manual, as well as aligning the pump arm with the cable adjustment.

Here's the two hinges, trace around them with a pencil first. When you put it back on I put never seize on the screws or some grease, to ease on the removal the next time, yes, there will be a next time.:rofl:




This is the clip I was talking about, you can barely make out the little ramp where you put the small flat blade into.

 

[Guest_User]

I can`t see in the photo`s, but if you have cotter pins in the HINGE pin ends, the cut the cotter pins off and slide the hinge pins out!, no need to remove any bolts, and makes a helluva lot easier to just drop the hatch right over the hinge and slide the pin back in, done deal!

good luck...

 

[racerxxx]

I can`t see in the photo`s, but if you have cotter pins in the HINGE pin ends, the cut the cotter pins off and slide the hinge pins out!, no need to remove any bolts, and makes a helluva lot easier to just drop the hatch right over the hinge and slide the pin back in, done deal!

good luck...

The ends of our hinges are peened over by a machine, the hinge pin is locked in and you wound need a 3# sledge to drive it out of the stainless hinge, no cotter pins. I can have my hatch off SOLO in 15 minutes. I think some one put those cotter pins in your hinges cause the 99 I did had the exact same peening on it's hinges and I unbolted that hatch.

 

[Guest_User]

The ends of our hinges are peened over by a machine, the hinge pin is locked in and you wound need a 3# sledge to drive it out of the stainless hinge, no cotter pins. I can have my hatch off SOLO in 15 minutes. I think some one put those cotter pins in your hinges cause the 99 I did had the exact same peening on it's hinges and I unbolted that hatch.

I`ll have to get a pic for ya Dan, they really don`t appear to have been peen`d at all, weird tho that you mention that.
if they were peen`d like that, then someone did a magnificent job making or altering the pin...
even the little cotter pins were perfectly installed...
I know the PO of ours undid the bolts to remove the hatch so it def was not him...

 

[racerxxx]

Here's my hinge, and it's just like the 99 Challenger I just did. You can see the peened over end(s). There really is no access due to the way the body contours. The hinge pins are roughly 5" long, if you can drive them from the center out, you can't drive them all the way out because they will hit the hatch. From the end of the hinge to the hatch is only 4", but you might be able to leave the pin in the last loop of the hinge. If you try to drive them from the outside to the inside, you will need an 18" drift held at a 30 degree angle and you won't be able to drive it far due to the angle. There's just no real room to get in there, hence the reason I remove the screws. Like I said, I can take mine off and put it back on by myself, I'm a one man band. I suggested the 2 people so you can get a handle for how the hatch acts once you remove the last screws.


Edit: What's funny is the 99 Challnger and the Speedster both call out for a Cotter pin, yet I have no cotter pins on the hinges.


You can't really see how far down the peen is on the hinge but you have almost .080" interference or more.

 

[Guest_User]

Here's my hinge, and it's just like the 99 Challenger I just did. You can see the peened over end(s). There really is no access due to the way the body contours. The hinge pins are roughly 5" long, if you can drive them from the center out, you can't drive them all the way out because they will hit the hatch. From the end of the hinge to the hatch is only 4", but you might be able to leave the pin in the last loop of the hinge. If you try to drive them from the outside to the inside, you will need an 18" drift held at a 30 degree angle and you won't be able to drive it far due to the angle. There's just no real room to get in there, hence the reason I remove the screws. Like I said, I can take mine off and put it back on by myself, I'm a one man band. I suggested the 2 people so you can get a handle for how the hatch acts once you remove the last screws.


Edit: What's funny is the 99 Challnger and the Speedster both call out for a Cotter pin, yet I have no cotter pins on the hinges.


You can't really see how far down the peen is on the hinge but you have almost .080" interference or more.

ok, I see the peen mark. yeah, ours is def not like that. it has the typical hinge pin, but longer, protrudes about 1/2 more from the end of the hinge and has a small cotter pin... have to say it was easy pulling the pins, then lifting off the hatch with a glazing suction cup by myself...lol...

 

[m.colley]

My Sportster 1800 has the same peened pins as Racerxxx shows. I've gotten pretty good at pulling my hatch solo too.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Sawzall works great for those tight work spaces! (kidding!)

 

[Guest_User]

here are the hinges in the 98 challenger 1800. I remember these from years ago, so I know myself or the PO did not alter these hinges, maybe they were done prior, who knows...
the only thing that`s different are the cotter pins, the cotter pins I removed were stainless and properly curved around the pin...

I traced the lines thinking I was going to remove the bolts until the cotter pins were a much easier option...