98 Challenger 1800 wont go above 4500rpm

[willkere]

Last season I blew the drvier side engine so I replaced the pistons, installed a carb rebuild kit, and cleaned and installed a RAVE rebuild kit. All parts were bought from SBT.

I took it out last year when it was complete and it ran fine. I didn't winterize the boat this year...I know really dumb of me. When I took it out this year it took a while for both engines to start...I had to keep taking the plugs out and cleaning/drying them off. Once I got them running and up to temp I tried to get up to speed. The passenger engine runs beautifully and starts easily now but I can't get the drivers side engine to go above 4500rpms. Also if I give the drivers engine gas quickly it dies. I usually need to choke it to get it to start.

Before pulling the carbs I wanted to see if anyone had any initial thoughts of what could cause this? That way I can look at specific things as I get in there. One think to note, I couldn't find a specific in line fuel filter replacement for the problem engine so I used a generic.

 

[despower]

If you didn't winterize you boat, I guess you didn't put any fuel stabilizer in the tank (Stabil or equivalent). If you didn't, I wonder if the old gas is a contributing factor.

 

[willkere]

I did put some stabilizer in back in February. I filled it up in late August/early September. I should have mentioned that. I did think about it but since the one engine is running fine I thought it must be something else.

I did some additional research and I'm thinking there could be something wrong with the pop off pressure?? I'm not too familiar with carbs though.

I should probably describe the fact that if I accellerate slowly the problem engine will go up to 4500 rpms but even at full throttle it won't go higher. The other engine will go to 7K+ while the problem engine stays flat at 4500.

Any help is appreciated!!

 

[seadooya]

could be carb related, could be rectifier related. Do search to find, hot to test rectifier, try cleaning/inspecting raves again too.

 

[willkere]

Yeah I saw your previous post on the rectifier...
"fire boat up, and while holding a steady 5500rpm, or as high as you can get it, but not past that rpm, volt test the battery, should get 13.5-14.5v, if in 15's or 12's, replacethe rectifier..."

I could try that but would that cause 1 engine to have problems but leave the other one completely fine?

 

[scooper77515]

Yeah, 4500 is around where the RAVEs open up. So tear those off first, and make sure they move freely.

If they don't open, you won't get your high rpms needed to take off.

When I first took my boat out this last weekend (first trip this season) it still had fogger oil in it and for the first few times I gunned it, the raves stuck from all the extra oil in there. It did the same thing. Hit 4500 and just stuck there, not wanting to plane quickly like I am used to.

But after a while on the water running the snot out of it, the goo loosened up and everything started to work like it was supposed to.

Just take the RAVE caps off and pull up and down on the plunger and see if they move freely. If they do, I wouldn't tear them down.

 

[willkere]

By fogger oil do you mean like a can of spray Sea doo lube? I did spray that in that engine when I was trying to get it to start...I don't know if that could cause a problem.

I just checked the raves and they slide in and out real smooth so I doubt its them. What RPM point does the carb switch from the low to the high?

 

[scooper77515]

Yeah, That seadoo lube in the spray can is the fogger. I had to run it a little bit to get that crap burned out. When the smoke went away, it started to takeoff when I gave it full throttle.