97 Speedster Questions

[MLars]

Hi guys, most likely picking up a 97 Speedster for real cheap from a friend soon and just have a few questions about it.
1. I know I'm beating a dead horse here, but which oil should I use in the 717s; semi-synth or mineral oil?

2. The glass is in great condition but the plastic is really dull and faded. What's the best way to bring back the shine? Compound or heat gun?

3. The trailer bunk brackets are completely rusted and broken. What's the best way to lift the boat to replace them? I've seen some videos online of just using car jacks with plywood to do it, I would assume it's the same with this?

4. Both engines blow anywhere from 145 to 150 psi, but only the starboard engine runs well. The port engine fired then died after 2 seconds. My guess is it's either bad gas (been sitting for 3+ yrs) or a clogged filter. Either way I plan to siphon and drain the gas and oil, then replace all fuel and oil filters. What about the carb filters? These boats didn't have grey fuel lines so there wouldn't be gunk in there right? Do you recommend I replace the carb filters too? Do I have to take the carb off the engine to do it?

5. What's the oil and fuel line size? I know on the skis it's a mix of 1/4 and 5/16, what about the boats? I plan to replace all the oil lines while I'm in there doing the filters.

6. How should I wash the cover? It's the original one and in great condition besides some dirt all around the sides.

7. The grab handles are covered in mildew. What should I use to clean them or should I just paint them? What cleaner or paint?

8. This was a saltwater boat but seemed meticulously maintained; the steering cable is locked up so I know I will need to fix that. Anything else I should be aware of?

 

[grinditout]

I got those handles brand new in black x4 , and probably got that cable used.

 

[MLars]

Thanks for the offer but right now I think I'm going to try cleaning them first with Starbrite mildew stain remover. Anyone else have any answers to some of my questions?

 

[Waterluvr]

1. The best oil you can use is XPS-2 if your willing to pay the price, it's really not a whole lot more $ per season to use it.
2. Try a lighter finishing grade compound first, most of the time that and wooly pad will really make it shine.
3. You need to lift and block both rear corners and then span over the width of the tires and lift the front of the boat to pull the trailer out, block the keel once it's out.
4. Replace the fuel selector valves, all fuel lines and filters and rebuild the carbs and fuel pump. Ethanol will have damaged the selector valve seals and hose linings on a boat that age by now.
5. Fuel line is 1/4", your oil lines can be replaced with off the shelf tygon. 3/32" for the injection lines, 5/16 on the filtered pump supply lines and 1/2" for the rotary bath.
6. I steal the wifes color safe laundry soap for washing boat covers by hand.
7. Any of the Ocean Bio Chem private labels like Star-Brite or Shoreline Marine sold at Walmart work wonders for mildew
8. Sea Doo boats used in salt can be a nightmare, the boats were never intended for use in salt water and subsequently do not have proper sacrificial anodes. I'd clean every electrical connector in the boat and seal with dielectric grease. Check all your control cable ends, shaft seals etc.

 

[MLars]

Thanks waterluvr! I'm going to pick up new tires and wheels right now. Originally it had 5.30 x 12 tires on it. Would 4.80 x 12 be ok to buy? They are load rated up to 990lb each.

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks waterluvr! I'm going to pick up new tires and wheels right now. Originally it had 5.30 x 12 tires on it. Would 4.80 x 12 be ok to buy? They are load rated up to 990lb each.

I wouldn't, on something that old I'd replace the entire hub assembly with new because they are basically dirt cheap and put new wheels and tires on that are the right size. You're in a world of hurt if you drop a bearing / hub after pulling the boat and heading home with it, that stuff is all Chinese made and really inexpensive these days. You can replace both hubs and rims/tires cheaper now than you could when it was new.

Rebuilding that stuff is ok, but when you see the prices for all new versus paying a shop to rebuild it's silly not to go that route. Since your's has tasted salt at some point, it's worth doing.

 

[MLars]

I wouldn't, on something that old I'd replace the entire hub assembly with new because they are basically dirt cheap and put new wheels and tires on that are the right size. You're in a world of hurt if you drop a bearing / hub after pulling the boat and heading home with it, that stuff is all Chinese made and really inexpensive these days. You can replace both hubs and rims/tires cheaper now than you could when it was new.

Rebuilding that stuff is ok, but when you see the prices for all new versus paying a shop to rebuild it's silly not to go that route.

That's what I plan to do. I just need tires to bring it to my house about a mile away. Them I'm tearing everything off and rebuilding the trailer. Would that size tire be ok though to use? The load capacity is more than enough. Any negatives on going with a slightly smaller tire?

 

[Waterluvr]

There's always a negative undersizing, your bearing the weight load onto a smaller surface. What happens when you do that? -Things run hotter.

Buy the right size, that's a WalMart/TSC/Harbor Freight box store common wheel and tire in 5.30 / 12.

 

[MLars]

Ok thanks. I'll head to walmart now and see what they have

 

[Waterluvr]

Ok thanks. I'll head to walmart now and see what they have

Walmart has those tires on a new wheel $55.00 in the 5.30 / 12 series.

 

[MLars]

Nice! I'll report back in an hour or so

 

[MLars]

Walmart had the tire and wheel I needed but for $75. I just decided to order it off etrailer for about $15 less and free shipping.

 

[Waterluvr]

Ouch, they get more for them in your neck of the woods. I order all the hub kits I use for trailer repair, most of them are right at 30 bucks for a complete hub ready to lock on the spindle and go for pwc class trailers.

I figure for under 200 bucks you have brand new everything touching the asphalt on both spindles and that's cheap insurance, being stuck on the side of the road and needing to fix a bearing ruins an otherwise good day out on the water.

 

[hotrodssnova]

I jacked my boat up with a floor jack and a 2x4. Gave me enough space to replace my rotten board. I run my boat in brackish water and clean the boat when I'm done. I plan on coating the pump parts in por-15 this winter, and new paint for the engines.

 

[MLars]

I jacked my boat up with a floor jack and a 2x4. Gave me enough space to replace my rotten board. I run my boat in brackish water and clean the boat when I'm done. I plan on coating the pump parts in por-15 this winter, and new paint for the engines.

Ok thanks. The pumps on the one I'm getting are all chipped and have some oxidation from the salt water I would assume. Is por-15 just a paint you put on? How do you prep the pump and nozzle before painting it?

Nice job on your boat btw

 

[hotrodssnova]

Por-15 is a paint used in the auto restoration hobby. I used it over rusty metals and it seals them from the elements. I would think it would do the same with her the metal in our pumps. I just scuff up the areas to be painted and brush it on. They sell all kinds of products.
http://www.por15.com/