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97 GTX Maintenance

Messages
120
Likes
6
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
#1
I have a new to me 97 GTX. Took it out for a test run and it would not go over 5000 rpms. If you tried the engine would die but start right back up. It just didn't seem to be riding very well so we took it in and started looking for issues. So a big thanks to this site, as this is the stage I am at with the machine now.

1. Pulled the carbs due to seeing it still had the original grey lines. They were full of green goo, so I ordered a carb kit.....not a true Mikuni kit. After reading that there are issues with the cheaper kits I reordered the proper Mikuni kit, and awaiting for it to arrive. Also have new fuel line waiting to go back in as well. Actually I'm replacing almost the entire fuel delivery system...ie water separator and selector valve.

2. The PO had been using TCW3 oil so all the oil lines were replaced and tank cleaned out. New API-TC synthetic oil was added and all lines bled. To replace the left side oil bath return hose I had to remove the exhaust. I did have to split the tuned pipe seal. Is there a way to remove this as one piece?

3. In attempt to remove the exhaust in one piece, which I couldn't, the manifold was removed as well to gain some more room. This still didn't work. The manual says that some of the manifold bolts should have synthetic grease applied. What is this? Will anti-seize work? I have all new exhaust gaskets ordered as well.

4.While I am waiting on parts to arrive I decided to clean the RAVE valves as well. They were pretty dirty but cleaned them up following directions here on the site. There was a major difference between how they moved when clean as opposed to before being dirty.

5. Compression was tested at 150psi on both cylinders and this machine has only 124hrs.

6. Checked the counter balance oil and there is some there but it seems very dirty. I searched for a while trying to find the drain plug. After buying an inspection mirror I think i have finally found it. There does not appear to be any water in the oil as it is not milky.Is it worth draining and replacing?

While I am this far, with the exhaust out, manifold off , and carbs detached is there anything else I should check now that I have access? This machine is in good condition but I don't think much routine maintenance was performed. And thanks to all on this forum as I have been able to find a lot of my answers by just searching.
 


GGuillot

Active Member
Messages
640
Likes
95
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
1996 GSX
#2
In attempt to remove the exhaust in one piece, which I couldn't, the manifold was removed as well to gain some more room. This still didn't work. The manual says that some of the manifold bolts should have synthetic grease applied. What is this? Will anti-seize work? I have all new exhaust gaskets ordered as well.
Great ski, I have a 97' GTX also. On the manifold, if you can't split it, you'll need to lift the engine up to get it out. I couldn't split either 787 pipes on my 97'GTX and 96' GSX, but I was pulling the engine and doing a rebuild anyway.

On the manifold bolts, follow the SM, some go into a water jacket, gasket goes on dry, follow torque sequence and spec.

Checked the counter balance oil and there is some there but it seems very dirty.
The oil in the balance shaft cavity is for the initial start up period, eventually the oil works it's way out and 2 cycle oil is the lubrication.

You seem to be on the right track, replace all the lines, new fuel selector, rebuild the carbs with OEM kits, etc. I would look over the jet pump, replace the oil, and replace the oring on the drive shaft with a c clip. Or you can get a new carbon seal kit, which usually includes a c clip.
 
Messages
120
Likes
6
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
#3
I found this morning the water pressure regulator has issues. The clamp that holds the bellows to the disc is missing the screw. So the clamp is useless unless i can find a small enough screw. I haven't pulled it completely off yet. Still trying to figure out how it all goes together or rather comes apart.
 

GGuillot

Active Member
Messages
640
Likes
95
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
1996 GSX
#4
I found this morning the water pressure regulator has issues. The clamp that holds the bellows to the disc is missing the screw. So the clamp is useless unless i can find a small enough screw. I haven't pulled it completely off yet. Still trying to figure out how it all goes together or rather comes apart.
Typical, I found mine the same way, along with the bottom clamp completely rusted and the spring in several pieces. I just took a piece of solid steel wire and twisted it to hold the clamp tight, been like that working fine for over a year now. On the bottom I just used a small wire tie.
 
Messages
120
Likes
6
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
#5
How does the internal parts of the regulator come out? Do they just pull out or do I need to remove the housing from the water box?
 

noviceskier

Active Member
Messages
298
Likes
27
Location
Tennessee, Knoxville
Water Crafts
96 Seadoo HX
96 Seadoo HX with FPP
96 Kawasaki sts 750
#6
3. In attempt to remove the exhaust in one piece, which I couldn't, the manifold was removed as well to gain some more room. This still didn't work. The manual says that some of the manifold bolts should have synthetic grease applied. What is this? Will anti-seize work? I have all new exhaust gaskets ordered as well.
In the blue circle I used a pair of channel locks to hold done the clamp, don't apply gorilla like force to it.

In the red I used a hammer and lightly tapped the shaft till it busted free. (Removing the nut first of course. 9mm I think.)

To reseal the copper ring I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BWZ1QLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Attachments

Messages
120
Likes
6
Location
Alabama
Water Crafts
1997 GTX
#7
I removed the hoses going to the base and twisted the base off. This left the brass nipple in the water box, but then removed it as well. Once the unit was out I was able to pull the bellow off as of course the bottom clamp was rusted into pieces. One good thing happened.... I found the small screw to the clamp under the bellow! So I was able to reuse the large clamp but put a zip tie on the bottom of the bellow. A couple wraps of teflon tape on both ends od the brass nipple along with some ptfe sealant paste and twisted the entire unit back into place. Reattached the hoses and she should be good to go..... time will tell..

On another note... what is the synthetic grease that needs to be applied to some of the bolts on the manifold? is this anything special? I got my gaskets in today so I plan to install these as soon as I can get this figured out.
 

mikidymac

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Messages
10,118
Likes
831
Location
California
Water Crafts
2003 GTI
2001 XP
1996 XP
1996 HX
1991 Superjet
2001 Superjet
#8
Any synthetic grease, I like the Seadooo XPS grease.
 
Messages
78
Likes
10
Location
High Desert So Cal
Water Crafts
95xp800 95hx800
#9
Synthetic on all but the most aft bolt I believe, it's the bolt hole that has the cooling water air bleed hole passing through the bottom of the manifold bolt hole in the cylinder, look closely and you'll see the passage, manual says use 503 Loctite if I remember right, I've seen water shooting out on skis there before. the mag cylinder doesn't use a bolt in that position with the Factory Pipe and no hole in the gasket so yours may differ. On that zip tied bellows if seen holes wore the bellows from them resting on the ziptie lock block at lower rpm. I took a soldering iron and melted it down for clearance which also locked the ends together. My regulator is the metal version so yours may have clearance. Lee
 

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