96 xp no beep from key

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Michjay586

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I have a 96 xp when I I put lanyard on I get no beeps but makes a sound when try to start any ideas why? What the it’s doing? Tried to post video but says doesn’t have allowed extension
 
No beeps is typically a bad beeper.
When you put the lanyard on do the gauges power up? Does the starter solenoid click when you push the start button?
 
When I hit the start button the gauges will light up, and yes I can here it clicking almost like it doesn't have enough power to turn over. Last year ran good up until his season and start having this problem, it woulld sometimes two beeps and fire other times nothing at all but now just the clicking
 
Sounds like a bad key or DESS post. The click and the gauges lighting up is from hitting the button without the lanyard on. If the key is on and it does that then I don't think the MPEM is recognizing the key.
 
When I hit the start button the gauges will light up, and yes I can here it clicking almost like it doesn't have enough power to turn over. Last year ran good up until his season and start having this problem, it would sometimes two beeps and fire other times nothing at all but now just the clicking

Let's clarify. Are you hearing the starter solenoid engaging? From my experience there are some very small clicks that are difficult to me to hear at least. These are evidence that the systems is working to a degree and nowhere near resemble the solenoid click.

I don't have much luck with the beeps on key insertion. I've checked about 4 systems out as best I can and my beeper repair success rate is dismal. :D The beeper can be very temperamental. I've changed beepers and all that stuff... skis start and run fine without yelling out... hey, I'm ready. When my personal ski beeps I about pass out from surprise. :) Be prepared to do some ohm meter checks on your system. If you have meter they are not difficult.
 
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Thanks guy, now have to find a place that programs them with out overcharging people

The MPEM doesn't just loose the key so don't have it reprogrammed.

We need to clarify some things first here.

1. Do the gauges come on when you hit the start button without the lanyard connected?
2. Do the gauges come on when you install the lanyard?
3. DOes the ski click with the lanyard on and then pushing the start button?

4. Are you sure your battery isn't bad and just doesn't have enough power to crank the engine over?
 
So this is what I have come up with 1 no lanyard, push start 4 red lights come on. 2 with lanyard four red lights, no beeps, when push start here clicking. 3 pull lanyard off and on again nothing,I wiggle it and then push start I here clicking. 4 battery was reading 12.4 v when try to start drops to 5-6 v then back up to 12v
 
If the battery is dropping under 12 volts at any time that’s your problem.
You need a new battery, at 5 volts it’s junk.
 
So bought a new battery this week, put it in and lanyard put on two beeps cranked then stopped. Pulled lanyard off put on no beeps nothing but dash lights. Bad post or key or both?
 
is There anyway I can message someone a video of what it’s doing? I tried to upload a video and it says file does not have an allowed extension
 
Rotate the engine by hand to make sure that it's not locked up.

Yeah.

If it rolls over fine then check the ground cable near the starter to see if it is broken. I see grey fuel lines on there though so....... Will it spin over fine with the plugs out?
 
If that's a new battery and the correct size check it again with voltmeter while cranking. It sounds/looks like a weak battery, watch the drive shaft, the solenoid/relay should keep the starter engaged whether the engine turns over or not. If you have close to 12v when start button is pressed then you have a high resistance connection or even a corroded battery cable possible under the insulation, if it's a cable it will be hot where the high resistance is. Seriously, watching your video closely you can see the drive shaft moving a little then back, then move again just like when you have a battery so weak that when you press start it will engage for a sec and as soon as it engages the starter pulls amps which causes a voltage drop, a weak battery pulling amps will cause voltage to drop so far the solenoid/relay will not have enough voltage to keep the relay energized, as soon as it drops connection voltage returns as no amp draw exists, relay connects and starts the cycle again. The faster (lower) the volts drop the faster the clicking. As a side note, if battery is actually good and you hit the start and it stays connected but doesn't turn over, STOP, fix whatever is preventing rotation (hydrolocked, crank/counter bal froze, whatever) if you keep starter engaged and no engine rotation you will stall burn the starter commutator, what the brushes make contact with, then it could give you the symptom that you have now because a stall burned com can be carbon fouled and/or pitted causing, again, a high resistance connection. I rewound locomotive 3k lb traction motor armatures, rebuilt the frames with fields and interpoles, assembled and test ran them among lot's of other work for the Santa friggin Fe RR, same direct current tech as starters so not blowing DC ionized smoke up your chimney. Lee
 
PS, check inside the electrical boxes, by battery and next to fuel tank, there's ground terminals in there that could be corroded also.
 
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