'96 Seadoo XP 787

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cfulgenzi

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So heres the story...

I have had this ski for two summers now.

I cleaned the carbs myself and replaced all filters, diaphragms, and etc.
Brand new starter
Brand new battery
Brand new fuel lines
Brand new fuel filter
Brand new Seadoo oil
Brand new Starter solenoid (last summer)
Brand new starter button (last summer)
Brand new Voltage Regulator
Brand new spark plugs

Heres the deal...

I had some problems with it last month and it would start right up perfectly and then when I got it o the water it would start and barely want to run. Basically it would start and idle fine but then bog down as I tried to get half throttle and then it would make it through half throttle to full throttle and go for a second and then bog down again and die. I Tried to adjust the carbs high and low jets to fix it but nothing. I tuned the carbs to factory now and then replaced the Voltage Regulator. When I got it back on the water after changing, It started for a second but no strong idle and then it wanted to go one time but then died. After trying to start a few more times it finally went into trying to start by itself. I had the key out and it sounded like the motor was trying to turn by itself. It kept making this noise almost like a consistent turning of the starter but I'm not sure. I then immediately unhooked he battery to stop it. When I tried to hook the battery back up, it wanted to jump start immediately when I touched the wire to the battery. I now have the battery unhooked and I have stopped at that.

Is it possible that the Voltage Regulator was wrong?
Or possible starter solenoid gone bad or grounding out?
Or possible starter button gone bad or jammed?
Or something else?

Please let me know.
Thanks for reading also!
 
What brand gaskets/diaphragms did you use for the carbs? Did you replace the pop off springs?
 
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Generally speaking, replacing the springs causes more issues than solves them. Not saying it is the issue, but I'd put the originals back in. If they are gone, do a pop off test.
 
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It'sts possible you fried the starter solenoid. Put your old one back in to verify, if you have it. I know it didn't work, but if the contracts are bridged on the new one the old one shouldn't have the same problem. Or first disconnect the two wire plug going to the new solenoid. That way if the MPEM is telling the solenoid to engage it can't if it's disconnected. Hope that makes sense.
 
First just pull the little connector that activates the solenoid. If it still cranks after you unplug it you know the solenoid is shot.
 
racerxxx said:
First just pull the little connector that activates the solenoid. If it still cranks after you unplug it you know the solenoid is shot.
Click to expand...

What wires exactly? And when I unplug them, do I start the motor with the key?
Thanks again! Hope all this works. It's been one problem after the other and I can't afford a dealer to keep looking at it and guessing so I've been doing all of it on my own.
 
If you look at the solenoid you will see two large lugs with threaded nuts and one smaller plug. It is the smaller plug that racerxxx is referring to. If the cranking stops when you unplug it, it means that the solenoid is getting a signal to start even though you are NOT touching the START button. If when you unplug it it stops cranking, it means the solenoid is stuck closed and needs replaced.
 
uploadfromtaptalk1459544585710.jpg

Disconnect this plug. Then connect the battery. If it turns over without the key the solenoid is stuck. If it doesn't turn over plug that connector back on, if it starts to crank over the solenoid is probably not the problem and it could be a start switch possibly or the MPEM. The MPEM tells the solenoid to complete the circuit.
 
So I just unplugged the plug, touched the cables to the battery and it still wants to turn. Checked all my connections and fuses inside that box and there is a blown 7.5 fuse. I am about to replace now. I'll update afterwards. Any ideas?
 
Now this???

racerxxx said:
Solenoid is bridged. Sounds like it's time for a new one
Click to expand...

So you were right! Switched it out and it's back to where I was after I cleaned the carbs. Now it starts right up and idles good but when I go full throttle it pops. I have the filter off of the carbs and when you look inside it blows a shot of smoke every time it pops like that. Hopefully you can see the video I will attach.

Thanks for all the help also! I really appreciate everyone on here.

Never mind, I can't figure out how to upload video.

Is it possible I put the new carbs together different or what?
 
can you post a link to the video on youtube or something? When you did the carbs did you replace parts or just clean up?
 
YouTube link

racerxxx said:
can you post a link to the video on youtube or something? When you did the carbs did you replace parts or just clean up?
Click to expand...

http://youtu.be/VGSlEXiliLk
Idk if this link works but if you go on YouTube and type in "'96 seadoo XP carbs backfiring" it is a short video like 20 seconds maybe. Hopefully this helps. Let me know if you find it or don't find it! Thanks again
 
I was just about to ask if you were going full throttle in the water riding it or on the trailer. All tests should be done in water while riding. Only way to get a real feel for what the ski is doing under acceleration. Wide open throttle ( WOT ) is not wise on the trailer and you can't learn anything about the engines performance. You are most likely hitting the rev limiter lol.



Rob
 
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