'96 SeaDoo GSX Fuel Float

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TheChad

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Hey all,

Okay, so my fuel gauge has worked fine for the few years I've had my ski, until this season, I filled the tank and the gauge only showed 2 bars. Several days later I road the ski and it showed 2 bars from a full tank, the tank was plumb full.

I ran the tank empty, the gauge seemed to work fine, I filled the tank again, and again the fuel gauge showed 1-2 bars. The next morning, the gauge showed a 2 bars from full again.

So I've read a lot about the fuel floats/magnet issue, so I bit the bullet and went threw the painfull process of taking the fuel baffle out of the GSX..

Once I got it out, I tilted it to see if the fuel float was sticking, it appeared to slide back and fourth just fine. I popped off the screen on the bottom and took the float out, it seems to be plastic and has the 2 magnets like the "new style" but doesn't look like the pictures of the "new style"

Is this the new or old style float?

Thanks,

-TheChad
 

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i have the same float and the same problem, only mine registers empty/one bar if im lucky! i've had it out twice now to no avail yet in a drum of gas it floats perfectly fine...... and resistance registers accordingly on a multimeter im at a loss with it, to me it seems the sender isn't filling with fuel but i've just had a eureka moment! try disconnecting the vent fuel line see if that aids in letting the sender fill properly, i'm already on empty so pointless for me to try lol!
 
that is not the newest style. the newest style is white. the black ones don't float very well. you should replace it, pn 295500438.
 
that is not the newest style. the newest style is white. the black ones don't float very well. you should replace it, pn 295500438.


10-4, So It's not the newest style, but it's not the "old style" that was problematic, it's like the Inbetween style that doesn't work as well as the new style, but isn't as bad as the old style!?

P/N is on order!

Thanks,

-TheChad
 
if it works as lou says lets us know, im in the UK so will be a very expensive trip to the dealer for me! heres one for 12 bucks by that part number

EDIT: scratch that lou posted a cheaper link lol
 
I've got a 96GSX with the same problem, I haven't pulled the fuel baffle I'm planning on doing it in the off season, so let us know how yours turns out. Here's the newest style float.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadoofuelfloat295500438.aspx

Lou

Will do, I will post as soon as I get the new float in and installed!


if it works as lou says lets us know, im in the UK so will be a very expensive trip to the dealer for me! heres one for 12 bucks by that part number

EDIT: scratch that lou posted a cheaper link lol

Yeah, I paid $10.79 from my local dealer. Should be here by the beginning of next week.

I will report the results!

Thanks!

-TheChad
 
I have my sending unit apart now. I read somewhere that there may be an issue with the floats and the magnets falling out. I am going to put a light dab or two of JB Weld on the magnets to ensure they stay in place. I just got off the phone with JB Weld in Texas. Regular fuel or Ethanol fuel will not disolve the epoxy provided it is fully cured before immersing in fuel. Hopefully a better fix for the snap in magnets on the white floats.
 
the magnets don't fall out of the white floats, they fall out of the foam and early plastic ones. no JB Weld needed.

if you want to improve your system, you should remove the F1 fuse and solder over it.
 
OK, I'll pass on the JB Weld!!! I just watched a video showing the foam float so I'm in tune with what you are saying.

Is the F1 fuse in the same side of the circuit board as the reed switches? And I thought I read somewhere that someone used a glue gun to reseal to opened portion (which is basically melted plastic).. What do you think about using that???

I'm also considering using it on the filter cap as it fell off and the float came out. Think it will work there too???
 
ive seen it been done with a soldering iron with plastic welding tip i myself did mine with fuel resistant epoxy, just make sure you trim any excess glue/plastic away otherwise it wont go back in the tank properly, its not a mega tight fit but it is snug 1-2mm of material sat proud of the unit is enough to snag
 
you don't need to reseal the opened portion. it does nothing and is a huge waste of time. just drill the 1" hole in proper location, remove fuse and solder over. done. no resealing.

first pic below is of the drilled hole showing the F1 fuse. the second pic is the replaced fuse with solder.

IMG_20130629_160105_779_zps0e9b5b19.jpg

IMG_20130629_160741_300_zpsc2dc507b.jpg
 
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They are. Thank you very much. That will help me drill in on the correct side!!!!

Looking at the first picture you posted I believe that is the first switch just barely visible on the right side!
 
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Fitted my float today (thanks minietonka aka Nick) and it finally registers fuel!

I cut the magnets out of my old black float cos I'm a hoarder like that and fuel just seeped from the foam float it was well and truly logged!

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
Update: Modified my sending unit removing the F5 fuse and bridging with solder. Reinstalled the float and installed a new filter end cap after cleaning out the tank. I checked the fuel quantity as I was refilling the fuel tank and it works awesome now!!! Thanks for all the help from this board and its members!!!

I also installed a new water seperator filter with a complete run of new fuel and vent lines, complete carb rebuilds and new spark plugs. My fuel selector gave me fits though. I cleaned it and noticed the inner bore was sort of spongy, but put it back together anyway after lubing. The engine would not prime with fuel after numerous tries. I went back in to the fuel selector and found it was plugged with a chunk of black rubber. Looking at it very closely I noticed a black rubber lining in the bore of the housing that the petcock stem rotates in. It was brittle and breaking up and I could see that with a magnifying glass (it must have been sucking air). So just cleaning and lubing your selector may not get it---watch for this problem as well. I put a temporary 1/4" union in between my "reserve" line and my "out" line and plugged my "on" line (the "reserve" line will run me to the bottom of the tank) top run the engine. The engine primed with fuel immediately and started running. I ordered a new selector valve for me to install tomorrow night and my test ride went well with no problems!!!!!!

I also had a friend whining about blowing up a fuel tank from this mod. How can that ever happen just by removing this fuse??? This is basically a circuit that provides a variable resistance for fuel level reading, not an electrical current path (with voltage) correct? I don't know of ANY fuel sending unit on any other vehicle that has a fuse on it, so why is this any different?
 
Thanks for the update, so it sounds like the worst part of the job is removing the fuel tank.

Lou
 
I have read where others have put an inline fuse into the wire harness once thy soldered across the internal fuse.

That may be a solution to the exploding tank issue you have heard of. I'd be interested to know the truth and it accuracy behind the issue if a tank exploding.
 
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I can see how having a fuse there would prevent an explosion but there is no electricity involved in the baffle just a set of reeds that change the circuit impedance which the gauge in turn interprets

Obviously put current through the baffle circuit and unless the tanks Always full the impedance will cause heat/fire but as I mentioned it's not a circuit that ever carries current

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
Oh and Lou if you need any tips getting the baffle out give me a shout I've done it 3 times now going for the 4th with my eyes closed!

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
The job is a piece of cake. The only hard part is pulling the fuel lines and identifying them.

If I add a fuse what size would it be???? Would it go on the red or black wire from the sending unit??? Where is the schematic for the sending unit???
 
no need to ID fuel lines, just take the fuel selector tap out and leave connected to pick up, and remove vent lines at hull, that way only one line comes off the pick up and thats the carb return line :) (can you tell ive done it a few times? LOL)

as regards the fuse i see no need for it as i dont plan on introducing any type of voltage/current to that circuit and the wires should be pink & pink/black not sure why you have red & black unless its a pickup from a different ski?
 
I swear it was red and black.... hell I'm too old for all of this.... I do not recall pink.... are you sure yours isn't sun faded!!! :) I didn't have enough clearance in the GTX to get that sender out without pulling lines. Your GSX must have more room.
 
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