96 Seadoo Challenger Auto Bilge Sensor Not Working

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mejim707

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In my on going restore of this old beast I tested the auto bilge sensor about a month ago. I rang out the wires and cleaned it real well. Unfortunately it does not work. The bilge itself works using the switch on the helm and the fuse is good. I think Part #64 of the below diagram has a faulty relay or something else is wrong. Can someone confirm that this relay controls the auto bilge / sensor? Is there something else I should check? Also, are there any suggestions on a different auto bildge sensor configuration / unit?

Thanks!

Diagram: 1996 Sea-Doo Challenger, 5896 Electrical Accessories | Fox Powersports Sea-Doo Partshouse

fuseblock.png
 
I'm thinking about perhaps also replacing the auto circuit / sensor all together with this switch wired directly to the 12v battery and to the positive on the pump. That way the manual and auto should technically work?

https://www.amazon.com/Rule-35A-Matic-Switch-Mercury/dp/B000O8DA3M
The only concern I would have with the Rule float switch is, how high will the water get before it switches on? Will the water level be high enough that the starter is submerged before it works?
 
Good point, it would need to be mounted low. It turns on at 2 inches. I'd prefer fixing the stock system but I think that would require replacing the fuse block in the helm and I'm sure that's pricy. I think the relay on the fuse block is causing the auto bilge not to work. And you can't service that unit either.

I did already have a situation where I was sitting idle for a while waiting for a spot to open to get the boat on the trailer. During that time the scupper was allowing some water in and it was filling the engine bay. I didn't realize right away. But when I checked it there was a considerable amount in there. I don't want that worry anymore. This auto bilge needs to work.
 
the scupper should not allow water into the engine bay. If water is getting past the scupper valve, it should show up at the driver's feet. I use one of these to keep water from coming into the passenger area while floating
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Possibly coming in through your bilge pump? The bilge hose should have a loop in it that extends above the water line to keep water from flowing in
 
Possibly coming in through your bilge pump? The bilge hose should have a loop in it that extends above the water line to keep water from flowing in

Oh that's sweet! Yes, it comes in through the scupper hose then drains into the center bilge ultimately getting into the engine bay. But even underway I've heard that esome water could get into the engine bay from the carbon bearing. In general though I just want to get the auto bilge operational so I don't feel the need to keep opening the compartment to check if there's excessive water in there. I'd also like to wire up a ligh or something to the console to show me when the bilge is on.

Where did you get that plug?
 
Can't remember if it was Amazon or ebay. Both have them. Search for Pro Grip 2550

Like the idea of a light that shows when the auto bilge is running, so you are aware of potential water problems. Sea-Doo positioned the bilge outlet in the worst possible spot. It's underneath the swim platform, so you never know if it's pumping water
 
When you remove the 3 amp fuse in front of the relay and plug it back in, does the relay click on for about 20 seconds and then click off? Someone had cut the wire coming out of the fuse block for the auto bilge on one of my 96 challengers. the pump should run as soon as you hook the battery up for about 20 seconds, they probably assumed something was wrong and disconnected it
 
Ok, that's confirmation then. I should hear a click and that relay, on the fuse block, is what's not working. I can remove the fuse and put it back in and nothing happens. Maybe I'll remove the entire fuse block and see if I can beat the crap out of the relay or try and remove it somehow. I've tried the trick of removing the sensor and bridging the two wires to get it to run and that doesn't work so I don't think the sensor is in question. And like I said I rang out all the wires back to the fuse block. The only thing I can think is that the relay is no good.

This is the only thing on the boat that's not working at the moment.
 
Probably your relay, you should here it click immediately after installing the fuse.

When jumping the sensor wire, there is about a 10 second delay before the relay reacts. Probably meant to keep the pump from running all the time if there is only a small amount of water sloshing around in the bilge.
 
Probably your relay, you should here it click immediately after installing the fuse.

When jumping the sensor wire, there is about a 10 second delay before the relay reacts. Probably meant to keep the pump from running all the time if there is only a small amount of water sloshing around in the bilge.
Oh, I didn't wait that long. I'll try that tonight. I'll pull the sensor, jump the wires and give it a good 15 - 20 seconds to engage. If nothing then I'll go a different route for a float switch.
 
I removed the fuse block. Maybe there’s more wrong with it than just a broken relay. It looks burned / melted on the back. Is this fuse block programmed to the MPEM or can I just replace it with one from Westside? I may just leave it alone and get a different switch however.1FD53E49-4F02-4C32-B076-B4125F2E2992.jpeg
 
Ok I got a quote for a new fuse block. It's like $195. So, while I want to replace it, I'm not sure on the functionality of the auto bilge circuit. I was told it's plug and play with no verification it was tested. The one I have is 'plug and play' and clearly the relay and auto bilge circuit does not work so I think I'll just move onto purchasing a separate switch instead. I mean, it just needs to apply 12v to the pump when the switch senses water. There's really nothing to this. I think seadoo over engineered this critical system and did it in a way that's prone to failure. I don't know why we need to have a pump, a separate sensor and a timer with relay in the fuse block. In fact the 10 second timer may even be in the MPEM so that means the auto bilge system is spread across 4 separate components. Makes no sense.

Does anyone know of a replacement pump for the 500 that allows for hook up to a manual switch and has an auto switch build in? I want the ability to control it manually as well as have it protect the boat when taking on water if that happens. If not I'll just purchase a separate switch and wire it up myself.

Thanks everyone!
 
Just a thought regarding knowing when there is water in the bilge. I wonder if you could install a water sensor, the type that is often used in basements that sounds a loud alarm when it detects water. I believe they run off their own battery and would be completely independent of everything else. Just something for peace of mind, though I'm not sure if you would hear it over the engine running, you'd need to test this. I had considered looking into this before I decided to purchase a boat lift. Anyways, just an idea...
 
I got the rule float switch. After testing a number of things again I'm confident the auto sensor circuit is toast in the fuse block. At least this way I never have to worry about it. Even the rule pumps with the auto sensing feature kinda sketches me out. What if it doesn't work for whatever reason. I don't want to leave such a critical thing to chance.

@Dadasaurus What I can do is get a 12v buzzer and / or led light and wire this up inline with the float. So if the float triggers it also turns on an alarm of some sort. That's pretty trivial stuff but can go a long way for peace of mind!
 
I got the rule float switch. It requires two small screws to be screwed into the floor of the boat to secure its bas. Is it same to drill two shallow holes in the lowest part of the bilge in the engine bay? I’d like to secure this switch at the lowest point around where the carbon bearing is but to the left or right of it.
 
I drilled about 1/4 inch into the floor of the bilge area and screwed the base down. Works perfectly. Wired directly to the battery to the positive of the pump. Both manual and auto work independent of each other.

A little time and effort goes a long way for the peace of mind. And I feel this setup is more reliable than the stock sensor circuit.
 
I hate to say this, but I need to know. So, I decided to make an adjustment to the new float switch. I removed it and went to reinstall. When I locked it down it didn't seem right. I look under the boat and sure enough the there's a small screw hole from where the switch is mounted.

IDIOT!!!! I had no idea the hull in that area is only like 1/2 inch or less thick. Anyway, I figure I can just fill the hole with some epoxy, sand it down, give it a little paint and call it a day. The hole is only like 1/16 - 1/8 inch round. I guess the screw was just a little too long.

Any thoughts on this would be great even if it's calling me a moron for puncturing the hull lol
 
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