96 GSX pair having Issues and I'm stumped.

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Zesmond

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I purchased 2 1996 Seadoo GSX's a few months back, one with a "jet issue" and the other with no motor but came with a replacement motor from SBT. After much blood sweat money and tears, here is the problems I am having.

Ski 1: Fired it up after new battery, tested it on the lake. Ran fine but maxed out RPM's and took a while to get up to speed. After reading on here, I replaced the wear ring which seemed to fix that issue, however how when I fire it up, it rides perfect for roughly 30 seconds then starts cutting out almost as if its missing and won't rev over 3k rpms and it smokes a lot. I took off the carb detail cleaned it replaced the fuel lines on the carb itself, blew compressed air through the fuel lines back to the tank (which ruined my gage :( not so smart on that one), replaced the spark plugs and took it out and still does the exact same thing. I'm thinking it could be electrical because when it would start cutting out, if I turned the skii off and back on and gassed it it would take off and run again another 10-30 seconds correctly then start cutting out again. My next course of action was going to be replacing plug wires and all fuel lines but I'm skeptical and have to drive an hour and a half just to put it in the water to test.

Ski 2: Put in new engine, aligned driveshaft, replaced wear ring and took out on the lake roughly a month ago, ran like a champ although I noticed water did not come out of the small vent hole in the back under the seat but never got any overheat light on. Took this skii out again and it takes off fast but starts cutting out and won't rev over about 3500 rpm's and will occassionally kick power on and rev up then drops off again. This one doesn't have the extra smoking or mis-fire type sound that ski1 has but my only guess is fuel delivery? I'm stumped because this one worked great a month ago and now doesn't.

On both skiis I am using the bombardier oil that's made for it, have new plugs, running premium gas with ethanol treatment. I popped off the reservior under the hood and cleaned that small filter as well.

Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated, all the blood sweat and tears put into these things are for a mini-vacation this week which won't be happening now. Need some inspiration to not feel like I've wasted all the time and $$$.
 
Ski 1 & 2: Did you replace all the grey fuel lines or just the one to the carb? Also if you didn't clean out the fuel selector or replace it for 15 bucks id do that. After all of that is for sure done pull the carbs again and clean the small internal filters and the filter up front. Is something was left in the line or you knocked something loose with the compressed air this could be the issue. Make sure all the fuel lines are either zip tied or clamped down tight. An air leak can cause problems. Your best bet to know its fine is to go to the auto parts store and but the metal screw type clamps they are not that much. Also what are the rave valves set as. If the front two are all the way down the rear should be flush and if the front is flush the rear should be all the way down.These items could very well be the problem with both skis.

On ski 2 did you do a proper break in or just go out and go balls to the wall?
 
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No matter what issues you have, replacing the Grey Tempo lines is a MUST DO. Fuel valve needs a major cleaning or replaced as well as the carbs and the plastic filter within the carbs.

If you still have the issue in ski 1 then disconnect the rectifier. If the problem goes away it needs replaced. Very common for them to fail and affect top end performance.

Ski 2. Id also unplug the rectifier to see what it does. But again, if you have grey tempo lines replace them NOW. They create a lean condition. Which means the engine is not getting the oil it needs and you will be right back where you started. Installing a new engine.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply... On Ski 1 The grey lines had been replaced with black lines but were all ziptied on, I did replace with hose clamps from autozone when I replaced the lines on the carb itself. I'll order a fuel selector on both of them just in case and pull & clean again. On ski 2 it has the original grey lines but they are ziptied on, I didn't blow air through those since it worked fine the first time taking it out and I wasn't expecting a problem. I'll get new fuel lines and put them on ski 1 and 2 tomorrow.

On Ski 2 I used the break-in oil and ran it quarter to half throddle for 30 minutes, turned it off for 30 while trying to diagnose ski1 then ran it again for 30 minutes alternating between quarter to full throddle then after cooling again cruised it for about 45 minutes to break it in.
 
I am new at this so I can't help on the main issues. Sounds like it is starving for fuel though. Clogged filter/gray line issue likely. On the gauge issue, the only thing that blowing air back could have done is to somehow blow the float through the bottom of the tube into the tank. Unfortuanatly it is a pain to fix. You have to move the electrical box in front out of the way as much as possible, then unstrap the fuel tank. You then move the tank as far forward as possible so you can pull the bulkhead tube out. I unbolted the stearing and moved it up and over then pulled the tube up through the stearing cable hole. You do not have to disconnect the cables. You may have to lever up the rear of the tank to get it pointed at the hole so you can get it out. If you have any gray lines left (except for the vents) now is the time to change them since you have to remove them all from the tube to get it out. Your float is likely bobbing around in the tank but should not hurt much. You can get a new float for 15 bucks. But you will need to figure out something to cover the bottom of the tube with to hold the float in since you likely also blew the bottom off into the tank.

Good luck!
 
if you can wait a couple of hours for me to get home, I think I still have two new fuel selectors in my "misc" box in the garage, I got 12 them at dealer cost so I can beat the retail price and ship today. If you need fuel floats I have them too below retail, brand new.
 
Ok, so on ski 2 that had the bad grey lines (I had not touched the carb on this one) ... WOW is all I can say. I am truly amazed that it even started. The filters in the carbs were completely gunked up with green plastic sludge and black debris. The fuel return line was completely clogged. Thank you for telling me to replace these... working on it right now. Got new lines running back and forth on the carb itself and putting fuel lines on. Trying to get the fuel selector out but the screw on the top is stripped which will make it tough. thinking about just blowing carb cleaner through it seeing if any gunk falls out or drilling out the bad screw. I'll update once I'm done with it and take it for a spin (probably be next week). On Ski1 I replaced the recitifier and am hoping that will put an end to that issue.
 
Ya, you gotta figure out a way to get the fuel selector out to clean it...I always replace no matter what. Peace of mind and they are cheap.
 
Alright I need some help.... After replacing the fuel lines the ski turns on and revs up to 6k rpms. I thought ok I need to pull back off and readjust low speed screw and idle screw... idle screw is all the way out low speed I tightened all the way and moved 1.25 turns as shop manual says and still exact same problem. I adjusted the throddle connected/reconnected and I'm completely baffled
 
Ski 1 is likely the rectifier....its in the front Ebox. You can unplug the red wire off of it and it will disable it and not charge the battery. A quick test will confirm that it needs replacing.

Ski 2, Jake is right. alot of times if you used new gaskets it will fall off one mounting bolt and twist away leaving a gap. Air leak.
 
The gaskets were it on Ski 2.... after replacing fuel lines, etc and it kept revving up I replaced the gaskets once more and now she idles about 4k out of water about 2k in water but drove it today and rides like a champ!

Ski 1 is still having problems. I replaced the rectifier and it took a lot longer for the problem to happen, however same issue but now caps out around 4500 RPM's after riding for 30 seconds-2 minutes. I turn it off and back on and have full throddle capability. I didn't have a dock where I could mess with it and take off the red wire but the fact that I tried a new rectifier and it's still having the same issue (just not as bad. Skii is rideable but not much fun to go 5-10mph.)

Any ideas on where to turn next?
 
Did you try unplugging the red wire from the rectifier like Tonka mentioned? While its home on the trailer, you can throw a volt meter on the battery & rev it up to see where your voltages are at. The fact that its smokes a lot when its acting up makes me think you shouldn't overlook the ignition. Could be a bad stator too, they can give similar symptoms. Does it act up running on the trailer?
 
New is not always good. Test for A/C volts at the battery. Bid there is, then the rectifier is bad again.


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