RESTO 96 and 97 GTX Build

[jforest]

Hey guys,

I've been around this forum since early last year when I purchased my 96 GTX. I got it with a single trailer and an engine needing a top end repair for $450. Ended up replacing pretty much everything mechanical. It ran great on the water last summer but unfortunately the lake time was limited when we had a drought that caused our boat ramps to close.

This year, I was searching Craigslist while waiting for a part at the appliance store for my washer and came across a 97 GTX with a double trailer. I went to look at the 97 and ended up buying it for $580 as it needs a total rebuild.

Although I rebuilt the engine in the 96 last year, I decided to purchase new engines for both skis. Although I can do it myself, I like the idea of the warranty offered by Tom at SES so I purchased 2 premium engines each with a 2 year warranty.

Starting this week, each ski will be stripped down to embark on a full rebuild. I was very inspired by the Shamu project [MENTION=69521]soccerdad[/MENTION] completed last year. There is such a high standard for these Resto projects on this forum so I look forward to that pushing me to complete these with that same standard.

I haven't had a chance to do my research yet but are there any major differences between a 96 GTX and 97 GTX?

 

[AdamXP800]

They are basically the same ski. I look forward to seeing these builds. Good luck!

 

[jforest]

Thanks! I'm pretty excited to get started.

 

[soccerdad]

I look forward to following the thread. Lots of potential on these skis. Maybe we can meet up a the big gathering at Lake Norman right before Memorial Day. Thanks for the kind words on Shamu. I still love the look. I was inspired by all the other great rides on this forum. My favorite quote, "If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants" (Sir Isaac Newton)

 

[LKGrider]

I had a 96 GTX I was working on last year. Trying to figure some things out (electrically) I then learned I had a "late production" 96 GTX which is same as the 97 except for stickers. If it is the early 96 GTX it is all the same as the 97 except for some electrical differences if I remember correctly. Both great skis!

 

[gtx787]

Very nice ski's I have a an all original 96gtx I bought it new and still love these are in great shape to rebuild and I'm very excited to see these when they are done keep up the great work.

 

[soccerdad]

I had a 96 GTX I was working on last year. Trying to figure some things out (electrically) I then learned I had a "late production" 96 GTX which is same as the 97 except for stickers. If it is the early 96 GTX it is all the same as the 97 except for some electrical differences if I remember correctly. Both great skis!

They moved to an integrated MPEM in 97. At least they did on the GSX. My 96 GSX had a 97 MPEM in it, (way more money) Besides that, the skis are virtually identical and interchangeable.

 

[jforest]

I started stripping down the '97 last night. Everything on this ski is OEM and looks like nothing was ever touched. The gray tempo lines definitely had the carb clogged. I was pretty happy when I pulled the jet pump off. The impeller and wear ring look to be in good condition. I can tell this thing has been sitting outside for a long time, I think I've literally seen a couple hundred ladybugs.

I'm hoping today I can finish removing the engine and get started pulling the engine out of the '96.

The top layer of the white gelcoat on the '97 seems to be peeling. Once I get the ski stripped down and start sanding it, that should smooth it out right?

 

[LKGrider]

They moved to an integrated MPEM in 97. At least they did on the GSX. My 96 GSX had a 97 MPEM in it, (way more money) Besides that, the skis are virtually identical and interchangeable.

I believe that is how I found out about the "late model" 96. The late model had the newer mpem.

 

[jforest]

Well today I pulled the engine out of the 97 GTX. By the looks of everything, this ski has low hours but was left to sit for years. Here are some pictures of the stator and flywheel. Needless to say, I was pretty happy after opening this up.

 

[jforest]

Both engines have been sent out to SES today. I'm hoping it won't take too long to get them back but I will have plenty to do in the meantime. I'm hoping to have everything ready for when the engines return.

 

[jforest]

Just got done pulling the hoods off both skis and noticed that the 97 GTX does not have the foam that goes all the way around the nose in the front compartment like the 96 does. Was this a design change? Where the foam is in the 97, it does not like it was broken off or sheared. Can anyone confirm this? [MENTION=69521]soccerdad[/MENTION] , [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Prob a change, no big deal.

 

[jforest]

Thats what I was thinking as nothing else on this ski looks to have been touched so I would highly doubt someone would take the foam out of the nose.

 

[AdamXP800]

I'm pretty sure my 97 didn't have the foam all the way around the front. Let me see if I have any pictures

 

[jforest]

I looked at it a little bit more and it really doesn't look like anything was there but if you're able to, I'd love the confirmation.

 

[soccerdad]

I only have had 96 skis. Never had such a new one

 

[jforest]

I have both the skis getting ready for a good pressure washing this weekend. I've been trying to look around to find some good paint for the bottom. I came across this website http://supermarinepaint.com/. Has anyone used anything from them before? They offer a bottom paint with many different colors and like to hear any feedback if possible.

 

[jforest]

I'm ready to start bringing back the white on the top of the jet skis. I posted in the other thread about this but didn't want to hi-jack the thread so I figured I'd continue the conversation in here. I was using some sandpaper I bought from eBay a couple years ago since I already had it and it seemed like it was taking alot more effort to bring out the white.

I've seen in a few places that people highly recommend using 3m imperial sandpaper. When sanding yesterday, I was using soapy water for the wet sanding but I was still loading up very quickly. Would the 3m be better at not loading up as quickly?

Also, for those of you that have done this before, how much time did you put into getting the yellowed look removed? I'm thinking that how bad the one ski is, that i'll have to use atleast a 400 grit and work my way back up. Should I expect to be changing the paper every few minutes?

I'm new to doing the body work side of this so I'm not sure.

Thanks in advance!

 

[soccerdad]

The sand paper should not actually load up. Sounds like you have some bad paper or your gelcote is somehow gummy. Again, I had to hit mine with 220 for a few seconds to get the yellowest spots. Then 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500. But I did not spend tons of time on an area with each grit. Maybe a minute or so with most of them. Sometimes I had to go back and hit some spots again, but it was not like I was sanding on a spot for 10 minutes at a time. But the paper should just wash out with the water.

 

[jforest]

I think I'll just have to try some better sand paper and go from there. How much water did you spray when wetsanding? Were you soaking it or just a light mist?

 

[soccerdad]

I just keep a bucket next to me. I dip the paper, sand, wipe, dip, etc. It is messy. If it starts to make a paste, then you are too dry. You cant have too much water. And I just use plain water, no soap. But I dont think the soap is the problem.

 

[fitty650sx]

Like I said I do all of my sanding by hand, no block. If the paper sticks to the boat, it's too dry, or you're using too rough of paper. I use a bucket of water as well with one or two drops of dish soap in it. It WILL be messy.

The thought process I use with the wet sanding is, you're not trying to remove anything, you're just trying to knock the 'high spots' down, whether the high spots are 'cooked' gel coat, or 'microscopic bubbles' so to speak.

The GTX I posted was so chalky that you could write your name with your finger in the white, but I never used anything less than 1000 grit on it. I can usually do an entire machine in one grit, with one 8x11 sheet of sandpaper, folded quarterly or in sixths.

It's something you'll learn and only by experience. I had absolutely no clue what I was doing when I started either. I knew the finer the grit paper, the smoother it got. That's all. Think of it this way, you really can't make it look worse, so even if you screw up and end up wasting two whole days sanding with too fine of a grit, you're only out time, and you've gained an exponential amount of experience as to what works, and what hurts.

Try it out

 

[jforest]

I'll give it another shot today. Thanks guys!

 

[jforest]

Worked on the 97 for a little bit yesterday afternoon. I think before I was too dry while sanding. I made sure to have the bucket right next to me and kept dipping the sandpaper every few minutes. I sanded by hand with a 9x11 sheet folded over a few times. I think I liked this more than the block because I was able to get to fresh sand paper quicker than changing out the paper on a block.

Thanks for the tips guys, I feel much better about doing it now. I guess it'll just be a matter of time at this point. The right side is coming along nicely, you can see the work I have to still do especially on the left side.