im rebuilding my motor in a 00 rx 951 as it needed a top end rebuild so i split the case to check bottom end but was wondering how do you tell if the crank is good or needs rebuild bearings feel solid and spin freely.The motor was rebuilt from what i was told when bought it from a seadoo mechanic but i has a run away which caused the motor to heat up and i think thats what caused the wrist pin c clips to come off and screw up cylinder walls and pistons. Also what do you use to reseal the case back.
951 rebuild crank questions
- Thread starter snigri
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- BiRkS_
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Spin each of the bearings. They should spin freely and effortlessly. If they bind up at all, or feel rough or "growl" they are bad. Look at the connecting rods. Does it have any writing? or say "WSM" or "SBT"? For a rebuilt crank, especially a 951, I like to go OEM. But i just finished a 951 with all WSM parts (incl crank) from PWC engine. Prices were good, and my buddy has put almost 20 hours on the ski since june. Hasn't missed a beat. The WSM gasket kit seems to hold up well. I like their seals. The paper base gasket is a little flimsy, but so is the OEM kit.
To seal the cases. Get Threebond 1211. Its 18$ a tube, but well worth it. Make sure your gasket surfaces are CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Wipe with acetone and let air dry to remove any oil/debris. I've just finished two 951 builds, so let me know if you have any questions. Hardest part is aligning the piston and cylinders. I find locking the crank with a bar and socket on the bench, and a helper make it much easier.
ALSO Do not overlook the counterbalance shaft. Those sealed bearings are prone to failiure and will seize up and bust open your bottom end. I sent mine out to a shop, he used all OEM bearings and seals 70$ for parts, 50$ for labor. Now that I see how it was done, I could have done it myself if I had a shop press.
To seal the cases. Get Threebond 1211. Its 18$ a tube, but well worth it. Make sure your gasket surfaces are CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Wipe with acetone and let air dry to remove any oil/debris. I've just finished two 951 builds, so let me know if you have any questions. Hardest part is aligning the piston and cylinders. I find locking the crank with a bar and socket on the bench, and a helper make it much easier.
ALSO Do not overlook the counterbalance shaft. Those sealed bearings are prone to failiure and will seize up and bust open your bottom end. I sent mine out to a shop, he used all OEM bearings and seals 70$ for parts, 50$ for labor. Now that I see how it was done, I could have done it myself if I had a shop press.
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Thanks for the info yeah i found some bearings wobbly more than others that were solid going to put a rebuilt one in.
As for the threesbond whats the best way to apply it ?
Also when pulling off the flywheel,stator etc off crank do they have a woodruf key in them so you know exactly where they go back at same postion i know about the dot and stator mark but is their anything else i need to know when putting them back on or do i need to mark anything taking them off ?
Thanks
- BiRkS_
Active Member
It comes in a tube, just like a permatex RTV and an applicator nozzle. Clean the gasket surface really well, wipe with acetone. Squeeze a thin, steady bead all the way around one of the case halves. (takes a while) Don't put too much on, as you dont want excess sealant winding up in the crankcase. Make sure to put a little extra right in the corners where the crank seals meet the block, and all corners. Then mate the two halves. Finger tight all the bolts (use loctite 242 on the threads, and a little grease on the shanks). torque halfway in the right bolt pattern, wait 30 mins-1h, then come back and torque to spec. This allows the gasket sealant to set up, then when you squish it down more, it is less likely to have an air leak.
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