95 sp won't start after fresh rebuild

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Cheflen

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I just finished putting everything together on my 95 sp resto project. Freshly rebuilt motor, carbs rebuilt with genuine mikuni kits. I know I should've replaced the gray fuel lines but I really wanted to see this ski run before I put any more time and money into it. I tried starting it today and it just keeps cranking without starting. I tested spark, and spark is good. I dumped a little fuel into the carb and I heard it start for a second so it's a fuel issue. Since i have the carb rebuilt, it has to be the gray fuel lines all gummed up. Is there anything else that can be causing this? Do I have to replace everything in the fuel system? Thanks for the help in advance
 
So everything is fresh and you risked pumping trash into the carbs just to hear it run?

Replace fuel lines replace strainer replace on/off valve check fuel pickup in tank, clean tank. Don’t risk trashing that new engine to cut corners.
 
So everything is fresh and you risked pumping trash into the carbs just to hear it run?

Replace fuel lines replace strainer replace on/off valve check fuel pickup in tank, clean tank. Don’t risk trashing that new engine to cut corners.
Yes I did, but I think the lines were so clogged that nothing went into the carbs
 
There is no check valve in the tank but the older skis had hoses on the pickup in the tank that would rot out. I’m not sure what year it changed to the sold plastic ones.
 
There is no check valve in the tank but the older skis had hoses on the pickup in the tank that would rot out. I’m not sure what year it changed to the sold plastic ones.
I ordered a new On/off valve, and a fuel filter, and I'm starting to replace all of the lines now. Is there any easy way to get the On/off valve off? I haven't looked into it that much. Other than cleaning up the fuel pickup and the tank is there anything else I should look out for or should my engine start right up?
 
THe rubber plug comes off the center of the fuel knob then remove the phillips screw and the knob then you will see a large plastic nut, remove that and the on/off valve will come off from the back.
 
THe rubber plug comes off the center of the fuel knob then remove the phillips screw and the knob then you will see a large plastic nut, remove that and the on/off valve will come off from the back.
Alright I just replaced all of the fuel lines and I'm trying to fire it up right now. I tried cranking it a few times and nothing happened. I assumed this was because the fuel needed to get through the lines first. So I waited and then kept trying. Now after trying for about 5 minutes it just barely starts firing but it can't quite start. I adjusted the low speed idle screw to spec but it isn't quite starting all of the way. When it does start I see some smoke coming out of the carburetor, and a slight splash of fuel. Is this normal? Should I just keep cranking and cranking until it starts? Please help
 
Someone may be able to give the correct answer but I don’t believe you should see smoke coming from your carb. That leads me to believe that if smoke can get out then air can get in therefore throwing off the fuel/air mixture. I may be wrong.
 
Someone may be able to give the correct answer but I don’t believe you should see smoke coming from your carb. That leads me to believe that if smoke can get out then air can get in therefore throwing off the fuel/air mixture. I may be wrong.
That's what I was thinking, the only thing is I had it timed by a professional shop for this reason specifically, so that would be what I think is the only issue. Anyway, update, I let it cool for about 20 minutes then try starting it again and it just keeps getting closer and closer to starting
 
If it's flooding it can belch out the carbs too. I would still suspect the timing. Did you check the rotary valve clearance when you rebuilt the engine?
 
If it's flooding it can belch out the carbs too. I would still suspect the timing. Did you check the rotary valve clearance when you rebuilt the engine?
Yes I had it timed by a shop, they put the rotary valve on so I'm assuming it isn't thay
 
Even if it is timed correctly if there is too much clearance it will run like crap and be very hard to start.
 
It's in the manual but you can either use a feeler gauge in th port or to be more accurate you crush solder between the cases and cover and measure how far it crushes.
 
UPDATE- I had some time after work today, I decided to take the timing cover off, and of course, the timing was pretty much 180 degrees off. I have never timed a seadoo before so I just copied what the repair manual looked like. (Bring mag to TDC then time the RV) and as soon as I cranked it it started right up. This is extremely upsetting since I took this to a shop to get timed and it wasn't even close. That explained the fuel spitting out of the carbs
 
Glad you got it figured out. Quite often the problems we find are from following other people's workmanship. That is why I like to to all my own work. It is an adventure sometimes. :)
 
Honestly most of the “shops” have no business working on these skis. They are now trained to hook up a computer and if it can’t tell them what’s wrong they start replacing parts till they get lucky.
 
That's all very true, I'm just happy I finally got everything running. It's going to be practically a new ski now. I think I'll have to post a RESTO thread on it with everything I did.
 
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