92 gtx just idle speed

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wasp

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Help! Have a 92 gts was riding last year when the rpms shoot up but I wasn't going anywhere. ALL I COULD DO WAS IDLE BACK TO DOCK. Checked and don't see anything in the impeller. The only time I had something like this was in a boat and the rubber center on the prop turned loose. Dose a impeller have a rubber center that could turn loose??? Help!
 
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Welcome to the seadoo forum wasp. I would check the impeller for excessive Clarence around the wear ring. If it looks like more than say 1/4" then it is time for a new one. If it has deep gouges or scratches chances are it needs one too. Look in the impeller nozzle from the rear and see if it has a lot of space between the impeller and the wear ring. The ring is made to wear out rather than the aluminum impeller pump assy..It isn't a hard project to replace it, but it does need a special tool to remove the impeller that you can buy pretty cheap if you decide to replace it yourself. Give it a look see and let us know what you find and we'll point you in the right direction to replace it if you want to do it yourself.

Karl
 
I had .150" clearance...

...and just swapped out my wear ring last week. The ski now jumps LITERALLY out of the water if I gun it. I hope that is your problem, and that cheap fix will get you going again...:hurray:
 
Hello karl, I checked the wear ring and all I can see is the surface where the impeller is looks chiped in places. Is this the wear ring that you told me about and could this be my Problem?

Thanks Wasp
 
Wearing ring....

Wasp, welcome to the forum. The wearing ring surrounds the impeller. It's put into the housing at the impeller to take up abrasiveness from sand and the like that the impeller kicks up.
If your shaft is not broken or stripped between the motor and the pump, then from your description in post one, your wearing ring is gone. You'll need to replace it........and being a 92 model. If it hasn't already been replaced once, then you got some time on that one!....put it in a museum. :rofl:

It'll cost you $34 bucks, you can take a look or order it here....http://www.sbtontheweb.com/Merchant...01-02&Category_Code=1992sgtx&Product_Count=21
You'll also need an impeller removal tool, so while your at it, you may as well get it too!....
It's not a hard job. I'm sure there will be someone here to help you get it done.
 
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Help! Have a 92 gtx was riding last year when the rpms shoot up but I wasn't going anywhere. ALL I COULD DO WAS IDLE BACK TO DOCK. Checked and don't see anything in the impeller. The only time I had something like this was in a boat and the rubber center on the prop turned loose. Dose a impeller have a rubber center that could turn loose??? Help!

No ruber center but does have a steal sleave in center of impeller that can come loose from impeller and just spin inside of impeller when ski is put under a load. like puting it in the water. I would check wear ring first and look for damaged impeller then drive shafts splines and couplers and last sleave in impeller. :cheers:
 
Splines....

Good point Robin. He said he was able to idle it back to the dock. You'd think if the wearing ring was shot, he wouldn't be able to go anywhere with it. Taking the pump off to inspect is probably going to be needed either way.
 
Thanks everyone, One things for sure i'll have to look into it and see what all has to be done. Do you think one of the best places to start is to buy a repair maunal, or is it pretty srtraight foward once you start pulling it apart??

Thanks for all the quick replies:)
Wasp
 
Sooner or later a repair manual will be a must. I have noticed that when you become a premium member you have access to them here on this site.:hurray::hurray:
 
No brainer....

There are a lot of things on the Sea-Doo's that someone mechanically inclined can look at and figure out. Only problem is that so much of it has measured limits and torques that need to be adhered to. Places where you use silicone and Loctite. Changing the pump bearing oil and how to inspect it when you break down the impeller.....
So yeah, if you wanted to, you could removed the 4 bolts that hold the pump on, order the ring and quite possibly replace it. It isn't rocket science. But the things you aren't aware of that may bet neglected, will be the things that jump up and bite you in the butt after your through.
Yes, you should have a manual or if you'd like to support the Seadoo forum, for at least one month, then you'd not only have the manual, but all the support from members and staff to get this job done for you. Letting people know where you are every step of the way and they in turn, remind you of what you need to look for.
But don't let that stop you. If you want to just have a go at it, you have the forum to come into if you get stuck, ask your question and one of us, I'm sure will answer it..........Good luck, let us know how you make out!..................:cheers:
 
Everyone has said I need to buy a tool to remove the impeller. Are we talking about the tool to remove the pump from the hull ( along with shaft ect.)??
 
......impeller removal tool.

No, you need the impeller removal tool. Unless you have a spare drive shaft you can use. When you remove the pump, to replace the wearing ring, you have to remove the impeller. When you take off the oil cap (cone), you'll expose the pump shaft. Here, there is a sloted head that you can put in a vise or use a large cresent wrench with. But the impeller side has splines. So you'll need the impeller removal tool to break it loose.
BTW, it's locked with Loctite and will need to have the middle of the shaft heated to 300* real quick. You can use a torch, but you have to be fast. You only want to heat it good enough to break the bond. I'd try to break it without heating it first. Mine was too tight, but after heating it, it broke easily....................good luck..............:cheers:
 
What is the best way to remove the impeller housing from the hull? I am new at this>>>>>>> going to take it down and replace wear ring and see if this is my problem. I have the old seedoo shop manual that i am using and it don't go into a whole lot of detail

Thanks for any help!
wasp
 
For starters....

1.) remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts honding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as streight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. i cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) now you have your pump and impellor in your grubby hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose pluggs.... This stuff reaks to high heaven...

7.) after cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 sockett with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (may take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the wifes freezer.

10.) back from the freezer you have to get the old one out of the pump. ( I have found the easiest way is to take a sawsall and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be carefull only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) now take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to seperate them.

12.) Clean all the white corosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) now after tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (dont dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesent slide in then you didnt clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12..... :)

14.) reinstall the impellor in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. thats why its a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you dont start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..
 
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Great post Mike!

The only other tid bite of info I might add, is this is the best time to check axial and radial bearing play on your shaft. That way, if the bearings are about gone, it's the best time to change them out.
And if not, this is also (which Mike doesn't state it, don't re-use that oil you catch in the cup or whatever) the best time to change out your 75-90 wt. synthetic gear oil.........

Great post Mike!...........:hurray:
 
I have the housing off, shaft looks good, impeller looks good, wear ring has damage and i noticed when i spin the impeller i hear a clicking sound maybe in the cone. I've taken the cone off and the impeller looks to have about the right amount of play in it but i have not removed the impeller yet I have to buy the removeal tool. I guess I will go ahead and order the wear ring. But is there anything else i should go haed and replace ( i will not know if there is any damage to the impeller, bearings, and seals until i get them off.)
Where might be the best place to buy parts and tool???
 
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You could either go the local dealer and get them from stock right away, or try one of the venders on the home page here in the seadoo forum to order from the internet. Keep us posted on your progress.

Karl
 
What's the differance? Just wondering!
The old wear ring that I am replacing has a rubber coating. The new after market ring is just the hard plastic. wondering why?
 
Do I need all this ? I am using an old shop manual and it tells me I need loctite 242, loctite 592, locktite 575, loctite 587 ultra blue, loctite 271, along with synthetic oil and grease. Do I need all this or have they updated some of the materials????
Thanks for any help!!
 
Well synthetic grease and oil yes! for the lock tight it has different locking types. I have all the different degrees of locking agent. You can get away with the red and the blue.

Karl
 
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