use to disassemble the motor
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5482&ppuser=46023
here is a 720 motor running as the pic was shot
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5409&ppuser=46023
Once the motor is out, you could get it Bench running. A 20" x 20" plywood, two 20" long 4 x 6's. Lay the 4 x 6 on side and set your tablesaw at 29* and rip it leaveing 1" of that rectangle. Secure the three with 2" course drywall screws. Buy four motor mounts and secure with #14 x 1 1/2" wood screws. I have a crane to slowly set an engine with belly-plate attached and m-mounts on the box and mark where the motor mounts fasten to the 4 x 6's. I keep a spare 720 E-box complete, also with a start/stop switch & buzzer. I use a small jar with two 1/4"id x 20"l fuel lines as a gas tank. I go thru the magnito, rotary, intake flange oil pump (do the shop manual flow test), new 3/32" injection to RV cover spigot tubes so as your drill runs you watch oil flow, rebuild carb(s) attach tuned pipe And Start the Motor. Usually 30 seconds for testing. I also test the over-heat system buzzing.
Rinseing your gas & oil tanks is fine if dryed completely. Read the Carb Adj STICKY in its entirety, obtain metric socket set as Seadoo = metric, a pop-off tester, 24' x 1/4id ethanol resistant fuel line, can of carb cleaner, impact driver, obtain a Shop Manual. ONLY buy genuine Mikuni Carburetor kits and replace the Needle(s) and Seat(s). http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
I cut two spark plugs at the porcelin base and weld a large 5/8" thick eye-bolt to them for lifting the motors out of ski, or in.
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5484&cat=500
A very large washers would work, as shown in your shop manual tool section.
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5482&ppuser=46023
here is a 720 motor running as the pic was shot
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5409&ppuser=46023
Once the motor is out, you could get it Bench running. A 20" x 20" plywood, two 20" long 4 x 6's. Lay the 4 x 6 on side and set your tablesaw at 29* and rip it leaveing 1" of that rectangle. Secure the three with 2" course drywall screws. Buy four motor mounts and secure with #14 x 1 1/2" wood screws. I have a crane to slowly set an engine with belly-plate attached and m-mounts on the box and mark where the motor mounts fasten to the 4 x 6's. I keep a spare 720 E-box complete, also with a start/stop switch & buzzer. I use a small jar with two 1/4"id x 20"l fuel lines as a gas tank. I go thru the magnito, rotary, intake flange oil pump (do the shop manual flow test), new 3/32" injection to RV cover spigot tubes so as your drill runs you watch oil flow, rebuild carb(s) attach tuned pipe And Start the Motor. Usually 30 seconds for testing. I also test the over-heat system buzzing.
Rinseing your gas & oil tanks is fine if dryed completely. Read the Carb Adj STICKY in its entirety, obtain metric socket set as Seadoo = metric, a pop-off tester, 24' x 1/4id ethanol resistant fuel line, can of carb cleaner, impact driver, obtain a Shop Manual. ONLY buy genuine Mikuni Carburetor kits and replace the Needle(s) and Seat(s). http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
I cut two spark plugs at the porcelin base and weld a large 5/8" thick eye-bolt to them for lifting the motors out of ski, or in.
http://www.pwctoday.com/photopost521/showphoto.php?photo=5484&cat=500
A very large washers would work, as shown in your shop manual tool section.
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