2005 Utopia 205 won't crank

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Spy_Hunter

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I've searched this forum and asked Mr. Google, but found nothing that resembles this issue, so forgive me if I missed this being asked and answered.

I have a 2005 Utopia 205 witha an Optimax 250HP engine that suddenly won't crank. It had run just fine with not so much as a hint of a starting problem a week ago. Here's the bit that's stumping me: when I turn the key, I get the single beep and the fuel gauge jumps up to shows the fuel level (as if the lanyard has been removed). It won't crank, click or make any other noise as if it has any intention of turning the engine over) when I turn the key to start it. I thought it was the battery. I replaced the battery with one that I just pulled out of my old boat that had enough juice to turn over and start a Chevy 454 marine conversion with a Berkley pump, so I was sure the battery wasn't the problem at that point. I removed the kill switch and checked the continuity (closed when the switch isn't depressed, and open when it's depressed). I then began investigating fuses. Behind the battery switch was a burned out 3A fuse. I replaced it. Still the same behavior, and the fuse did not burn out. There is a brief humming noise (1-2 seconds) after the key is turned to the first (accessory) position so I assume that is either the oil or fuel pump pressurizing the line.

What I have not checked: power to the starter (which, admittedly, I should have), any breakers/fuses that may be buried in the on-engine wiring, power across all the ignition switch wires in every position.

So, I guess I have a couple questions. What is that 3A fuse for? Why is the electrical behaving as if the lanyard is removed? Bonus question...where do I look next?

This is my first foray into "outboard engines" in my 30 ish years of boating. Everything else has been a big block marine conversion.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Jump across the big terminals on the solenoid, and see if it cranks. I'm guessing it's either a corroded wire, or the solenoid gave up.


As far as the fuse... there's a couple behind the switch... and they are just for your electronics. (no starting) It could be your bilge pump. It should say in the owners manual. (You can download it free on Seadoo's website)
 
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Sorry for the huge delay. The end of the school year sucked up most of my free time. I do thank you for your quick response.

So, it spins when I jump across the terminals, so that probably means it's the solenoid.

I'm stll a little hung up on the gas gauge showing the level when I turn the key. That's only supposed to happen when the lanyard is off. Should I just ignore that for now? I'd like to know if that might be part of the problem before I go replacing the solenoid.

Thanks again for the help!
 
I'm not sure what problem you are seeing with the fuel gauge. Mine does the same. Turn the key on... get a beep... and the gauges come to life. On the Merc boats... the lanyard is only a kill wire. Or am I reading this wrong?? If you are thinking about a Rotax powered Seadoo... with a DESS lanyard... then that's a totally different animal.
 
Its not the helm throttle being out of neutral position is it? or the cables/switch to the throttle position.
The amount of times i manage to pull my kill switch off while running then wonder why it won't restart and then i remember to put the throttle back to neutral is probably every time I take the boat out. One day i'll learn....
 
Thanks again for the reply. The fuel gauge issue I'm referring to is this (snip from manual):

Fuel Gauge
Located in dashboard, this gauge con-
tinuously indicates the amount of fuel in
fuel tank when engine is running.
The gauge is illuminated whenever the
navigation lights are used.
NOTE: The fuel level can also be veri-
fied without having engine running.
With the safety lanyard removed from
its switch, turn ignition switch to ON
position; the gauge will be activated.
CAUTION: Always turn ignition
switch to OFF position once fuel lev-
el has been checked.

This was verified the first time I used it because I was checking to see if it had enough for a quick spin, but no indication on the gauge, I then downloaded and read the manual, pulled the lanyard and "Bob's your uncle", there was a reading. Seemed silly for that to be a thing in the first place.

So that was the first thing I checked when it didn't start. It definitely toggles between open and closed circuit when pressed. So my guess is that pulling the lanyard ties something to ground. It could be a red herring.
 
Its not the helm throttle being out of neutral position is it? or the cables/switch to the throttle position.
The amount of times i manage to pull my kill switch off while running then wonder why it won't restart and then i remember to put the throttle back to neutral is probably every time I take the boat out. One day i'll learn....

Thanks for the reply.

I made sure that the helm throttle was in the neutral position, but havent verified that the engine end is in a neutral position. I'll check that today.
 
Everything appears to be going to a neutral position on the engine side when the helm control is in neutral. Is there a switch in the lever on the helm side that I should be looking at?
 
Yes. It's on the throttle assembly. Take the handle off. Centre screw. Then the assembly is held on with four screws and you should be able to pull it through the hole. I had a similar problem where the cable to the switch got trapped in the mechanism.
 
Yes. It's on the throttle assembly. Take the handle off. Centre screw. Then the assembly is held on with four screws and you should be able to pull it through the hole. I had a similar problem where the cable to the switch got trapped in the mechanism.

Thank you for that suggestion. I think that was the problem. I pulled the throttle assembly and everything looked fine, so I turned the key (for no other reason than I hadn't tried the ignition yet today) and away it went! Pulling that must have jarred the switch.

So...I'm going to tell my wife im a genius and I fixed it with my own very skilled hands.
 
One more thing for cleanup and reference to anyone who stumbles across this with the same problem...the fuel gauge now does not give a reading when I turn the key on. That switch must be connected to the kill switch somehow.

Thanks again for the help, guys!
 
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