Hey guys!
My problem got worse. Now the whole damn thing won't start anymore.
I bought an interface and get the following two error message: P0220 meaning MAG TPS out of range?
What does that mean?
The other one is:
P1601: Diagnostic connector cap missing. I don't think this is a real problem.
Basically when i try to start the jet it just sounds like as if it doesn't have any fuel. Any hands on tricks or ideas that might fix this? I fear it has something to do with the fuel injection...
did anybody have the same troubles?
cheers
P0220 - you have an issue with the front (nearest the nose) cylinder. I'm dealing with that right now with a 2000 GTX DI and am struggling to fx it without a new/swapped MPEM. The P1601 is not an issue at all - ignore it.
Our machine starts just fine but it's just not firing on the Mag cylinder at all. Coil/lead/plugs are good. Power to the coil is there just no signal is being sent to "fire".
I was discussing this on another forum (I don't know if I can mention the name so I won't. This is the reply. But remember mine will start.
Mods - If I am doing wrong by posting this, please let me know. It's unintentional and I'm just trying to help a Forum member.
I am getting these codes:
P0220 Mag TPS out of range
P0351 Mag Ignition Primary Circuit Failure
P1103 PTO TPS Adaptation Failure
Here was the reply to my question -
The most likely cause is a bad connections at the MPEM. I suspect you have corrosion on the pins of the #3 connector, because you have multiple issues with things at that connector.
Let me first tell you how the MPEM throws the above faults. The MPEM supplies +5 VDC power out to the TPS senders, and expects a voltage within a certain range to come back to it. The voltage level it expects to see back is translated into a value called the Adaptation voltage. Your MPEM is not seeing any voltage coming back from the MAG TPS, that is why the out of range fault is displayed. And it is seeing an incorrect value for the PTO TPS.
On the ignition coils, the MPEM supplies power to the coils, and expects to see back +12 volts on the other pin. If it sees nothing, then it throws that fault you are seeing.
Here is what you need to do. Before you do anything else, please buy yourself a quantity of #55 drill bits to test the connectors. (Do NOT use anything else to probe the MPEM connectors! The pins on the MPEM connectors are extremely fragile and will get damaged if you try to use anything else!)
Here's where you can get them cheaply:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Drill-Set-5...m_sbs_indust_1
If you live near a major city, many industrial supply places also sell these drills. You will need at least three of them.
The #55 drill bits are .052 diameter, which is the size of the MPEM pins.
While you are waiting to get the drill bits, inspect the MPEM connector #3. Pull off the connector, and you will see the part that faces the MPEM has two tabs on the sides. You will need to remove this facing part of the connector by using a small screwdriver to pop open the tabs so you can take off the front part of the connector. Once you have the front part off, the connector contacts will be fully exposed. Inspect the connector contacts for any sign of corrosion using at least a 10X magnifier. If you see a lot of green contacts, this is your problem and you need to buy new contacts and replace the green ones. If there is no sign of corrosion, continue.
Once you have purchased and received the drill bits, you will use them to check the integrity of the MPEM connector contacts. Insert the shank end of the bit (NOT the end of the drill that has the sharp points) into the connector contacts on #3 connector, and feel for the resistance as you slide it in and out. You should feel a slight amount of resistance to inserting and withdrawing the drill. And a good test is to insert the drill and turn the connector upside down, the drill bit should stay in the connector.
If the contact is not corroded and you don't have resistance, you can fix the pin by bending inward the three tabs on the contact barrel. Then retest with the drill bit.
Besides using the drills for testing contact integrity, you will use them to probe the pins. Using your meter, put drill bits in contacts 3-21 and 3-22 and check for near zero ohms. (actually .5 ohms, but most meters are not this precise)
If you have infinity, then you have a wiring or coil problem to track down. If you have .5 ohms (and didn't have any issues with the the contacts, like corrosion or loose contacts that you fixed) then it looks like an MPEM problem)
Repeat this test on the 3-5, 3-10, and 3-14 contacts for the MAG TPS. You should have readings between 1000 and 2400 ohms depending on which pair you measure. If you have infinity; same thing as the ignition coil, you have a wiring or TPS problem to track down.
