I just purchased a 2003 GTI RFI with 134 hours in great shape. When I got it home I tried to start it but it just clunked. Pulled the spark plugs only to have a volcano of brown fluid????? Tried to clean plugs and refire only to have it hydro lock again. It seems to be emitting less fluid but still worries me. Ski was in storage for 5 months. It does have a new battery and good spark I'm just worried where all this oil is coming from??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2003 GTI RFI pumps oil out of spark plugs???? Help?
- Thread starter Todd2910
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Hi and welcome to the SeaDoo forum.
You've probably got leaking crank seals. It's letting injector oil, in the crankcase. Try getting all the oil out that you can, the good news is once you get the motor started the crank seals should seal themselves up some what. As a temporary measure you can pinch off the supply line from the injector oil tank, when you're not using the ski.
Lou
You've probably got leaking crank seals. It's letting injector oil, in the crankcase. Try getting all the oil out that you can, the good news is once you get the motor started the crank seals should seal themselves up some what. As a temporary measure you can pinch off the supply line from the injector oil tank, when you're not using the ski.
Lou
O.K., since no one else has answered I'm going to tell you what I would do. Since summer is almost here, I would go ahead and see if I could get the ski started. Then for the summer I would pinch off the injection oil line when I'm not using the ski. And go ahead and use it.
You most likely need a new crank, which means for an amateur mechanic replacing the motor with a re-manufactured unit. I would install a reman motor next winter.
Lou
You most likely need a new crank, which means for an amateur mechanic replacing the motor with a re-manufactured unit. I would install a reman motor next winter.
Lou
What you should do is check the oil tank to see if there is oil left in it before you even attempt to start it. If there is oil but it's low fill it so it's like 1/2 full(if it's lower than 1/2), mark the level in the tank with a marker of something on the outside of the tank. Try and cycle all the oil out of the engine before you try and start it as you were. Then check the supply line to the crank case the large line from the tank to the engine # 11 on the first explosion drawing. If that has oil in the line proceed to try and start it. If it starts run it on the hose for 30 seconds and shut it off. You can run it longer but you'l need to keep the carbon seal wet, use a separate garden hose and spray water on parts #7 and #8 on the second diagram, that's two garden hoses. Or if your mechanically inclined you can pop the carbon seal apart and run it without having to wet it(my preferred method). Then wait a short while and do it again. You just want to try and burn out the extra oil. Now wait a day or two and go back and check the oil level in the tank, the oil should still be at the mark on the tank. Monitor the oil level from your mark over a week. It's possible the crank seals are bad or at least leaking. To have enough oil to hydrolock the engine would denote a severe leak and a major drop in oil level in the tank. So even over a weeks time you might notice a drop in oil level from your mark if the leak is that bad.
As far as repair, you can monitor it and by running the engine more frequently the seals MIGHT recondition themselves (sorta) to seal but very doubtful. There is a spring wrapped around the seal which creates the tension on the rubber seal to seal the shaft. The other option is if you can figure out that you have a severe leak is to have the bottom end replaced with a new crank and reseal the bottom end. The other place for a seal to leak is the rotary valve shaft so that should be serviced as well while having a crank replaced. Long story short, if you're going that deep, time to have your engine rebuilt or pick up a remanufactured engine, or build one yourself if you have the know how. But first before you jump to that try and get it running first and monitor it, the leak might not be that bad and you could run it like that for 1, 2, or 3 years. But first you need to get it running and monitor it. Remember if you're going to monitor it don't move the ski or tilt it or you'll lose the exact position of oil level, best to check it in a static location.
As far as repair, you can monitor it and by running the engine more frequently the seals MIGHT recondition themselves (sorta) to seal but very doubtful. There is a spring wrapped around the seal which creates the tension on the rubber seal to seal the shaft. The other option is if you can figure out that you have a severe leak is to have the bottom end replaced with a new crank and reseal the bottom end. The other place for a seal to leak is the rotary valve shaft so that should be serviced as well while having a crank replaced. Long story short, if you're going that deep, time to have your engine rebuilt or pick up a remanufactured engine, or build one yourself if you have the know how. But first before you jump to that try and get it running first and monitor it, the leak might not be that bad and you could run it like that for 1, 2, or 3 years. But first you need to get it running and monitor it. Remember if you're going to monitor it don't move the ski or tilt it or you'll lose the exact position of oil level, best to check it in a static location.
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Not a fun way to get into the sport
Not a fun way to get into the sport
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