2001 seadoo xp - problem going from low to high

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jetski9999

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I have a 2001 seadoo xp - rotax 947 engine with dual carbs. Having a problem with engine power. The engine is having problems going from low to high.

It sometimes will be stuck in low - max RPM 4500 and a speed of approx. 30 MPH. Let off the throttle and go again and it will kick right into high gear going 7000 RPM and up to 65 MPH . Let up on the throttle and pull again and it will stick back into low gear.

Note - in low gear - there is no power behind the jet thrust. when the jetski kicks into high, it runs fine.

I took it to a guy that repairs jetskis on the side and he said it needed the carbs rebuilt. After he rebuilt the carbs, the jetski ran the same. He now thinks it is a short or a problem with the main computer.

Can anybody help??

I plan to take it to a seadoo dealer in the next couple of days if I can't find a solution.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by "low to high" does the ski feel like it's cavitating? Over revving, kinda like if it was a car, like the clutch was slipping?

Do you still have the grey tempo fuel lines?

Lou
 
When pulling on the throttle, the engine quickly goes from low to high gear emmidiately. (Sorry I am not a machanic however I have fixed my cars numerous times and have some machanically skills)

When it feels like it is stuck in low gear, - the max RPM are 4500 and speed is at approx. 30MPH . Turning is the most noticeable and YES it feels like the jetski is cavitating. Once stuck in this mode the engine will continue to bog down until I let up off the throttle.

Quickly let off on the throttle and pull again and the engine jumps into high gear - 7000 RPM and will hit 60 MPH emmidiately. NO cavitation at all - runs normal.

If my wear ring was bad or the impeller was bad - clearance was off, I would have cavitation all the time - correct??

Yes - I still have the gray fuel lines on the machine.

Note - the carbs were just rebuilt or cleaned last week. The machine has only been in the water for less than 10 minutes, so the carbs should still be OK. At least for a little bit of time.

Thanks for your help.
 
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nope, if the fuel lines were broke down, which they are, especially at the selector switch(on/off/ res), you'll need to replace all, and pull carbs off again, to go thru them. You also need to pull the raves and clean those too.
 
I know the jetski is a 2001 seadoo xp bought in 2002. When I bought it in May of 2006 - it only 10 hours of run time on the jetski. It only has about 40 - 50 hours total run time. Not much on the machine.

The fuel line seam very easy to change.
I want to confirm the fuel line size is 5/16"

I read that I need to buy approx 15 ft total length and about 15 clamps. Once I pull the lines I will cut to size.

Again - the carbs were just rebuilt. The raves cleaned - I don't know but they look OK.

Any reason for the my troubles??
 
The original grey (Tempo) fuel lines were made of two materials laminated together with an adhesive. After time 2-3years the adhesive breaks down and makes a green goo that goes everywhere in the fuel delivery system. The end result is the engine runs too lean because it is starving for gas.

The cure is to replace the grey fuel lines with 1/4" black automotive hose. You will need 20-25' depending on if you replace the vent hose, and about 20 stainless steel clamps. Just replace 1 hose at a time following the original route.

You will also need to clean or replace the main fuel filter and 2 carb. filters, 1 in each carb. Also you will need to clean or replace (I strongly recommend replacing), the fuel selector valve.

Here is a link to a how to guide on this forum for more information:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=5563

Lou
 
Wear Ring

It also sounds line your wear ring needs replacing.

Here's how to tell:

Remove the steering nozzle, check the wear ring for missing pieces, also check the clearance between the wear ring and the impeller, the clearance should be no more than .040", you can check this with a feeler guage.

Also while you are there check the impeller for any dents, dings, etc.

The ski has no transmission, its direct drive from the motor, this cavitation is what you are interupting as changing gears.

Lou
 
Lou

I know the jetski doesn't have gears (1, 2nd, 3rd, etc. ) but it is the only way that I can discribe the problem.

I am out to replace the gas lines. I am planing on replacing the vent lines at the same time.

I will also check the impeller as well along with the clearance.

Thanks again
 
The cure is to replace the grey fuel lines with 1/4" black automotive hose. You will need 20-25' depending on if you replace the vent hose, and about 20 stainless steel clamps. Just replace 1 hose at a time following the original route.

Lou

Need to figure out, what motor the "member" has, before posting, the wrong info.

Jeff, you need about 15-20ft of 5/16in fuel line, and 5ft of 1/4in. You'll notice at the selector switch, you'll find a grey chalk/sludge, inside the fittings.

Pop-off the caps where raves are, and pull up on the stub, see if valves are moving freely, if not, remove and clean.
 
update on the 2001 seadoo xp

-engine is a rotax 947 - 951cc - 135HP
-dual carbs

today I have done the following;
- as indicated above, the carbs were rebuilt last week
- replaced the fuel lines and the vent lines
- raves are clean and move freely
- impeller and the wear ring are both in great shape - a couple of small nicks on the impeller and the wear ring has a couple minor scratchs. I filed the nicks out of the impeller so that it is smooth.
clearances are still very tight - range from approx .020" - .030"

have not run the jetski in the water yet to test out the changes.



thanks again for all the help
 
Seadooya

Thanks

I have new plugs in the seadoo

I normally change the plugs every second or third time out on the water.
For $2.00 a plug it is pretty cheap to make sure the jetski is running at top performance. Lalso carry 2 sets on the water with me at all times.

I have never clip the plug wire before thought. Do you clip the plug end and reconnect to make sure that the connectivity is good??

Also - after changing the fuel lines, I fired up the seadoo and found out that to RPM are running at 5500 RPMs out of the water. It should be about 3000 RPM out of the water and approx. 1200RPM in the water.

How do you make an RPM adjustment???

Thanks
 
pull the plug boots off, and clip the wires there, then re-install boots.

For the idle adjustment, the angled "T" adjuster, right below the turn in the exhaust pipe/manifold, turn that counterclockwise, to decrease rpm.
 
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