2001 Islandia 240HP ECM Questions

[speedluver]

2001 Islandia 240HP
Engine Serial# 0E385928

I'll tell the longer story, because sometimes that helps people with similar problems see patterns. My boat had been running pretty well the few times I'd had it out this season. A couple weeks ago, I went over to the dock to take it out, and it just cranked and cranked with no firing at all. I didn't think that I heard the fuel pump like I usually do before cranking. I unsuccessfully tried all of the little tricks and such that I have learned in the past 8 years I've had it (and spent cussing at it and swearing I was selling it the next day) before I gave up for the day. I went out the next morning and still had no luck getting it to fire, just cranking and cranking.

I worked on it over the next couple weeks. I had spark at all cylinders. Luckily, my friend had given me a Mercury service manual a couple years before for an unrelated issue. I followed the manual and determined that the electric fuel pump in the VST was not getting triggered to run by the ECM. The lifter pump didn't seem to be kicking on either. Both would run just fine when grounded directly, and fuel pressure was good when grounding the VST pump. According to the service manual, I was looking at a bad connection on the black/red negative wire that runs from the VST fuel pump to the ECM, or a bad ECM

Following some advice from a thread on here, I disconnected the ECM pigtail and checked continuity on the PIN 2 wire from the pigtail to the terminal connection on the black/red wire of the VST fuel pump. I showed good continuity. Resigned to the fact that I must have a bad ECM, I plugged the ECM connector back in and started cleaning up my tools. I still had my multi-meter hooked to the one of the fuel pumps, and I figured I'd turn the key to "ON" one last time. When I did, I saw the voltage drop like it hadn't before, so I went ahead and tried to start it. It fired right up.

Now, I figured that I just had a bad connection in the pigtail connector of the ECM, and the reconnection and/or cleaning it out a bit must have taken care of it. I shut it off and restarted it a few times. I went out and got some more oil and gas, and decided to take it out for a test cruise a couple hours later. I went about 5 or 6 miles to one place, and I stayed there for about an hour. When I went out to leave, it started right up and I went another 4 or 5 miles to another place. I was there another hour before I started it up without issue and went 5 miles and stopped at the beach on the way home to get in the water and cool off. After 45 minutes or so at the beach, I went to leave and got the same cranking and no firing. I've had a lot of warm and cold start problems with this boat in the past, so I can usually tell when it is going to start before I completely discharge the battery. It seemed to be the same problem as before, and once again, I didn't hear the fuel pump kicking on. I popped the hatch and tried disconnecting/reconnecting the ECM pigtail and starting a few times. No luck. I figured I'd leave it unplugged for a little bit like I did at the dock when it first started working again. After 5 minutes of us getting ready to hook up to a boat for a tow, I reconnected the ECM and tried one more time. It fired right up. I thanked the people for offering the tow and took it the last few miles home without issue.

I am stumped. The beach starting issue could have been something completely different, but it was weird how 5 minutes of the ECM being disconnected seemed to fix the problem again. Are these symptoms of a failing/bad ECM? Does disconnecting that one ECM connector for a few minutes kill all power to it and essentially reboot or power cycle it? Maybe I just need to clean the connection up a bit better and apply the dielectric grease. Is there any other sensor or safety feature that will not allow the fuel pumps to operate to prevent starting or running?

Thanks for reading and any advice.

 

[Scott Martin]

I'm having the exact same issue with my 00 Islandia. I'm going to check all the grounds and make sure they are clean as a next step.

 

[SeptemberC]

@Dr Honda

 

[captlon135]

Following as having similar issue with my 2003 Islandia. Was running on water fine last weekend for 2+hrs. In the midst of pulling tubers, boat just lost power and shut off. Cranked and started on first re-try, put into forward and shut off again. Now it only cranks but doesn't start.

Checked the kill switch for resistance and it checked out fine. Still need to disconnect and try starting as another thread recommended just to be sure.

At the beginning of this summer, had issue where boat would start but then shut off randomly when applying throttle. When I went from idle to WOT is when it would almost immediately shut off. Slowly applying the throttle to eventually get it up to WOT, it was hit or miss whether or not it would shut off. Once I hit the powerband, it would run without issue. Every time it would shut off though, it would always start right back up. Ended up replacing all spark plugs and cleaned all the boots and haven't had an issue starting or running since...until now. Probably 20-30hrs on it since replacing plugs/cleaning.

New to jet boats so hoping this thread will help troubleshoot whether its ECM related or something else. Have a few other items to look into based on other threads (trigger assembly/wires, port temp sensor (thing smokes like a beast at startup), etc.).

 

[WILakeBoating]

2001 Islandia 240HP
Engine Serial# 0E385928

I'll tell the longer story, because sometimes that helps people with similar problems see patterns. My boat had been running pretty well the few times I'd had it out this season. A couple weeks ago, I went over to the dock to take it out, and it just cranked and cranked with no firing at all. I didn't think that I heard the fuel pump like I usually do before cranking. I unsuccessfully tried all of the little tricks and such that I have learned in the past 8 years I've had it (and spent cussing at it and swearing I was selling it the next day) before I gave up for the day. I went out the next morning and still had no luck getting it to fire, just cranking and cranking.

I worked on it over the next couple weeks. I had spark at all cylinders. Luckily, my friend had given me a Mercury service manual a couple years before for an unrelated issue. I followed the manual and determined that the electric fuel pump in the VST was not getting triggered to run by the ECM. The lifter pump didn't seem to be kicking on either. Both would run just fine when grounded directly, and fuel pressure was good when grounding the VST pump. According to the service manual, I was looking at a bad connection on the black/red negative wire that runs from the VST fuel pump to the ECM, or a bad ECM

Following some advice from a thread on here, I disconnected the ECM pigtail and checked continuity on the PIN 2 wire from the pigtail to the terminal connection on the black/red wire of the VST fuel pump. I showed good continuity. Resigned to the fact that I must have a bad ECM, I plugged the ECM connector back in and started cleaning up my tools. I still had my multi-meter hooked to the one of the fuel pumps, and I figured I'd turn the key to "ON" one last time. When I did, I saw the voltage drop like it hadn't before, so I went ahead and tried to start it. It fired right up.

Now, I figured that I just had a bad connection in the pigtail connector of the ECM, and the reconnection and/or cleaning it out a bit must have taken care of it. I shut it off and restarted it a few times. I went out and got some more oil and gas, and decided to take it out for a test cruise a couple hours later. I went about 5 or 6 miles to one place, and I stayed there for about an hour. When I went out to leave, it started right up and I went another 4 or 5 miles to another place. I was there another hour before I started it up without issue and went 5 miles and stopped at the beach on the way home to get in the water and cool off. After 45 minutes or so at the beach, I went to leave and got the same cranking and no firing. I've had a lot of warm and cold start problems with this boat in the past, so I can usually tell when it is going to start before I completely discharge the battery. It seemed to be the same problem as before, and once again, I didn't hear the fuel pump kicking on. I popped the hatch and tried disconnecting/reconnecting the ECM pigtail and starting a few times. No luck. I figured I'd leave it unplugged for a little bit like I did at the dock when it first started working again. After 5 minutes of us getting ready to hook up to a boat for a tow, I reconnected the ECM and tried one more time. It fired right up. I thanked the people for offering the tow and took it the last few miles home without issue.

I am stumped. The beach starting issue could have been something completely different, but it was weird how 5 minutes of the ECM being disconnected seemed to fix the problem again. Are these symptoms of a failing/bad ECM? Does disconnecting that one ECM connector for a few minutes kill all power to it and essentially reboot or power cycle it? Maybe I just need to clean the connection up a bit better and apply the dielectric grease. Is there any other sensor or safety feature that will not allow the fuel pumps to operate to prevent starting or running?

Thanks for reading and any advice.

I'm sure you're aware of this since you had the boat for 8 years but wanted to mention for others that the condition of the battery seems to be a very sensitive issue with these boats and ECM issues.

If the battery is old, a cell is dry, has corroded connections, not fully charged, etc. that could be a simple place to start for others who may come across this. Again, not saying this is your issue but sometimes the simplest solution is the solution.

 

[WILakeBoating]

Following as having similar issue with my 2003 Islandia. Was running on water fine last weekend for 2+hrs. In the midst of pulling tubers, boat just lost power and shut off. Cranked and started on first re-try, put into forward and shut off again. Now it only cranks but doesn't start.

Checked the kill switch for resistance and it checked out fine. Still need to disconnect and try starting as another thread recommended just to be sure.

At the beginning of this summer, had issue where boat would start but then shut off randomly when applying throttle. When I went from idle to WOT is when it would almost immediately shut off. Slowly applying the throttle to eventually get it up to WOT, it was hit or miss whether or not it would shut off. Once I hit the powerband, it would run without issue. Every time it would shut off though, it would always start right back up. Ended up replacing all spark plugs and cleaned all the boots and haven't had an issue starting or running since...until now. Probably 20-30hrs on it since replacing plugs/cleaning.

New to jet boats so hoping this thread will help troubleshoot whether its ECM related or something else. Have a few other items to look into based on other threads (trigger assembly/wires, port temp sensor (thing smokes like a beast at startup), etc.).

This sounds like it could be a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or throttle guardian? Not an expert but I've read a lot on the forum and that issue seems to be common.

Should be fairly simple to troubleshoot if you do some searching around here for tps or throttle guardian. Not sure if your boat has one or the other (or both?) but it sure sounds like a throttle position issue since it starts and doesn't do this until you're moving. Wouldn't hurt to test it out.

 

[captlon135]

This sounds like it could be a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or throttle guardian? Not an expert but I've read a lot on the forum and that issue seems to be common.

Should be fairly simple to troubleshoot if you do some searching around here for tps or throttle guardian. Not sure if your boat has one or the other (or both?) but it sure sounds like a throttle position issue since it starts and doesn't do this until you're moving. Wouldn't hurt to test it out.

Just ran the first OHM test of the TPS found in the following thread and it checked out fine: testing the crank trigger and TPS

Decided to pull the spark plugs to do a visual test. 1 plug looked as new as the day I put it in. Other 5 showed sign of being used. Will be getting some tools this weekend to run a spark test and compression test. Not sure if this is the root cause of the boat not starting but obviously needs to be looked at.

Also, to your earlier point WILakeBoating about replacing batteries for the OP, I second this! Charged up both at the beginning of the season and decided to take them in for testing. Both going bad (11.9V and 9.9V or something like that). Interestingly enough, they had enough juice together to start the boat however my fish finder wouldn't turn on and my radio would turn on intermittently. No issue with either accessory after replacing both batteries.

 

[WILakeBoating]

Just ran the first OHM test of the TPS found in the following thread and it checked out fine: testing the crank trigger and TPS

Decided to pull the spark plugs to do a visual test. 1 plug looked as new as the day I put it in. Other 5 showed sign of being used. Will be getting some tools this weekend to run a spark test and compression test. Not sure if this is the root cause of the boat not starting but obviously needs to be looked at.

Also, to your earlier point WILakeBoating about replacing batteries for the OP, I second this! Charged up both at the beginning of the season and decided to take them in for testing. Both going bad (11.9V and 9.9V or something like that). Interestingly enough, they had enough juice together to start the boat however my fish finder wouldn't turn on and my radio would turn on intermittently. No issue with either accessory after replacing both batteries.

Yeah I guess it was a long shot with the TPS but the diagnosis sort of fit the issue - sorry it didn't turn out to be the problem. Sounds like you are on the right path though. One more thing to eliminate the root cause at least.

Spark plug thing is interesting and yeah, possibly part of the issue? I'd bet when you get that plug firing you'll have noticeably more power anyway. These things eat plugs so dirty is what I'd expect on all of them. Double check that gap if it's off but I doubt that's the case and by the sound of it I'm sure you checked that.

I feel like these boats should have a disclaimer on them "unless you like paying the marina, a good troubleshooting mind is required for satisfactory ownership." Really interesting on the battery anecdote!

 

[ripcuda]

Whenever I've had a clean spark plug (while others look dark/normal)... it was because that cylinder was not firing. In my case I had a bad trigger coil and the #1 and #4 cylinders (use same trigger coil) were not firing above ~2400 rpms... but were firing at idle.

 

[captlon135]

Yeah I guess it was a long shot with the TPS but the diagnosis sort of fit the issue - sorry it didn't turn out to be the problem. Sounds like you are on the right path though. One more thing to eliminate the root cause at least.

Spark plug thing is interesting and yeah, possibly part of the issue? I'd bet when you get that plug firing you'll have noticeably more power anyway. These things eat plugs so dirty is what I'd expect on all of them. Double check that gap if it's off but I doubt that's the case and by the sound of it I'm sure you checked that.

I feel like these boats should have a disclaimer on them "unless you like paying the marina, a good troubleshooting mind is required for satisfactory ownership." Really interesting on the battery anecdote!

Quick update on my end:
- New coil pack was installed; boat still didn't fire up.
- Installed new port side temp sensor on a prayer after reading a bunch of other threads; boat still didn't fire up.

Brought boat to my cousin who's an auto mechanic to help troubleshoot. Found there was no pressure at the schrader valve on-top of the VST (vapor separator tank) which houses the high-pressure fuel pump. He hooked up some kind of fuel machine (sorry don't know the proper term) which basically bypasses the fuel pump by forcing fuel through the schrader valve. With that connected, boat fired right up and sounded better than ever (assuming due to now firing on all 6 cylinders with the new coil pack). When he shut off the fuel machine, the boat motor sputtered and shut off.

Seems like we have the issue isolated at the moment (fingers crossed). Pulling the VST off tonight to bench test and inspect further.

@speedluver - sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread but seems like my issue is pointing in the same direction as your original post. Unfortunately don't have the manual like you do so flying a bit blind based on what I can find in the forums for tests.

 

[Tim75]

Quick update on my end:
- New coil pack was installed; boat still didn't fire up.
- Installed new port side temp sensor on a prayer after reading a bunch of other threads; boat still didn't fire up.

Brought boat to my cousin who's an auto mechanic to help troubleshoot. Found there was no pressure at the schrader valve on-top of the VST (vapor separator tank) which houses the high-pressure fuel pump. He hooked up some kind of fuel machine (sorry don't know the proper term) which basically bypasses the fuel pump by forcing fuel through the schrader valve. With that connected, boat fired right up and sounded better than ever (assuming due to now firing on all 6 cylinders with the new coil pack). When he shut off the fuel machine, the boat motor sputtered and shut off.

Seems like we have the issue isolated at the moment (fingers crossed). Pulling the VST off tonight to bench test and inspect further.

@speedluver - sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread but seems like my issue is pointing in the same direction as your original post. Unfortunately don't have the manual like you do so flying a bit blind based on what I can find in the forums for tests.

Is your VST pump running? Just feel it with key to run. Pump can fail inside, OR the inlet float needle can stick, not letting fuel into the VST. Open the drain screw on the side of the VST. Fuel should continuously flow as long as the key is ON, and the lift pump is operating.

 

[captlon135]

Is your VST pump running? Just feel it with key to run. Pump can fail inside, OR the inlet float needle can stick, not letting fuel into the VST. Open the drain screw on the side of the VST. Fuel should continuously flow as long as the key is ON, and the lift pump is operating.

Thanks @Tim75 for the recommendation. Already had VST pulled from boat before your post came through. Pretty sure my cousin had his hand on the pump the other day while I was turning the key and didn’t feel it kick on. That plus no pressure at schrader valve led us to pulling the entire VST unit out.

Upon pulling pump out and connecting to a battery, it failed to throw any kind of spark thus rendering completely fried. OEM was $900+! Google searched the part# and prices were all over the place. Ended up ordering one from Amazon with solid reviews and lifetime warranty coming from a shop in California for a tenth of that price. Should be here Friday so hopefully get installed and boat back on water this weekend for some test runs.

 

[SeptemberC]

Thanks @Tim75 for the recommendation. Already had VST pulled from boat before your post came through. Pretty sure my cousin had his hand on the pump the other day while I was turning the key and didn’t feel it kick on. That plus no pressure at schrader valve led us to pulling the entire VST unit out.

Upon pulling pump out and connecting to a battery, it failed to throw any kind of spark thus rendering completely fried. OEM was $900+! Google searched the part# and prices were all over the place. Ended up ordering one from Amazon with solid reviews and lifetime warranty coming from a shop in California for a tenth of that price. Should be here Friday so hopefully get installed and boat back on water this weekend for some test runs.

Thank you for the update!!

 

[captlon135]

Installed the new high pressure fuel pump yesterday. Boat fired right up on the trailer. Took out on water today and ran flawlessly for 2hrs+.

Here’s the pump I ordered in case anyone is interested: https://a.co/d/e3RiWLA

 

[speedluver]

Installed the new high pressure fuel pump yesterday. Boat fired right up on the trailer. Took out on water today and ran flawlessly for 2hrs+.

Here’s the pump I ordered in case anyone is interested: https://a.co/d/e3RiWLA

Good to know! I was so frustrated with the boat that I just let it sit for a while. I occasionally went over and took it out if it started. Sometimes it would run, other times it would not start. Again, if it would not start I would unplug the ECM for a little while, and eventually it would start. I have randomly had the problems when running like you described since I've owned it. It'll idle fine, but different combinations of throttle would either cause it to stall or slowly lose RPM. My favorite is when it idles down the channel in forward just fine, but if I put it in neutral it tries to stall. It makes docking fun when you have to switch back and forth from F to R without staying in N too long! Most of these come and go, and I can never really figure any of them out. That, and I can barely get it to 30 MPH anymore.

I think I must have a bad connection somewhere between the ECM and the pump. I have had many problems over the years because of bad connections in this boat. If I had more room and tools to work on it out of the water, I would. I ended up getting a good deal on a nice tri-toon a couple of weeks ago, so I'm going to try to sell the Islandia. It's a perfect boat for my lake, but mine just needs too much work to get it where I want it.