2001 Challenger 1800 240efi M2 TPS Test

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Steves23

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I have all the Manuals but I was wondering if I can test the TPS voltage without Part # 91-816085 TEST HARNESS?

There's one on Ebay for $49 but If I can somehow do it without buying that it would be great because I plan on selling the Boat (I think)... It runs great, sometimes hard to start if it doesn't start right away then I just have to crank my steering wheel to one side to give it gas while starting. Runs great WOT but smokes to the point of embarrassment at idle or in reverse. That's the only reason I may sell it.... I have not done an Oil pump output test yet. Also need to check to make sure all plugs are firing at Idle which is a little low at 900rpm. Compression is decent on all 6 cyl's with very little difference (120-125)

I have been studying all forums for known issues and Holy Crap are there a lot of variables that come into play. I just had it up to Pictured Rocks in Munising Mi this past weekend and it ran great except for the dreaded Smoke at Idle. I know it's a 2 stroke and they smoke but my old twin 787's never smoked like this nor any Dirt bike or Snowmobile I've ever rode. I'm talking a smoke screen enough to choke a healthy grown man and his kids lol. Anyways I was just wondering about the Question I asked. I have a decent Digital Fluke77 series II Multi Meter. Very Mechanically inclined as well
 
The Merc engines will get a little smoky when cold... but the smoke should be minimal after it's started, and warmed up a little.

The normal (and much cheaper) thing to check, and change out is the port side temp sender. It has a shorter life, and will cause the same issues.

But, to answer your question... yes... you can check it without the harness. Just push some pins though the wire, and then clamp on your meter.

FYI... you need to disconnect the temp sender, to check the TPS. (as the book will tell you)
 
Thanks Dr Honda. I have replaced the Air temp, Head temp and Temp sender. Now whether I installed them correctly i'm not sure. I didn't know how far down the rubber went so as of right now I just have the fork squishing it down into the hole. I wondered if the raised bump around the rubber is supposed to get squished into the hole. there are no clear instructions. I'll check the voltage on the TPS when I get home later. Thanks
 
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I have to ask a question about the Head Temp and Temp Sender Sensor installation. Are you suppose to lube the rubber grommet and is it suppose to fit flush into the head. I have some rubber squished out by the hold down bracket. I'll try to reinstall it more flush later after work but was trying to get some input on it first. also I did not add the thermal paste that i see mentioned. I do have some for my PC processor (Arctic Silver) I believe it is. Do i need it or not?
 
I just put a little synthetic grease on it... and shove it into the head. You really don't need any special thermal grease.

But, off the top of my head... I don't remember if it goes in flush or not. (don't think anyone has asked that) BUT, I don't think it does. But the grease will help it go in all the way. FYI... make sure to clean out the pocket it goes into, so it fits well.
 
What 2 of the 3 wires do I use to check the TPS if I'm using the pins and Multimeter???? The Middle to either of the outsides or both outsides?
 
I have the Procedure with the Harness but I do not have the Harness

Throttle Position Sensor Test:

Purpose: This test eliminates possibilities of improper fuel delivery related to the throttle position indicator. Refer to EFI electrical system and ECM test.
NOTE: Engine harness MUST BE disconnected from the EFI tester 91-11001A2 (if being used) and reconnected in the normal running configuration in order to test or adjust the throttle position sensor.

IMPORTANT: TPS can be adjusted using a digital meter (DMT). Analog (needle) type may be used although it may be difficult to read the low voltage setting accurately with most meters.

1. Disconnect TPS from EFI harness.

2. Connect digital using TPS Test Lead Assembly (91-816085) between TPS connector and EFI harness connector. Set voltmeter to 2 DC volts.

3. Disconnect TAN/BLACK engine head temperature sensor leads located on port cylinder head.

4. Turn key to the “ON” position.

5. Loosen screws securing TPS to manifold.

6. Rotate TPS fully clockwise (holding throttle shaft in closed position). Voltmeter should read .200 - .300. If readout is not within specifications, adjust TPS to obtain readout of .240 - .260.

7. Tighten TPS screws to 20 lb. in. (2 Nm) holding correct tolerance.

8. Disconnect remote control cable from throttle lever.

9. Slowly move throttle lever to full open position while monitoring voltage reading. Voltage reading should increase and decrease smoothly.

10. Set volt meter to 20 DC volts. Maximum voltage reading at full throttle is approximately 7.46 volts.

11. Remove test lead and reconnect TPS harness to EFI harness.

12. Reconnect TAN/BLACK engine head temperature sensor leads located on port cylinder head.

NOTE: If engine appears to run too rich or too lean, TPS can be readjusted. Decreasing voltage yields leaner mixture. Increasing voltage yields richer mixture
 
What 2 of the 3 wires do I use to check the TPS if I'm using the pins and Multimeter???? The Middle to either of the outsides or both outsides?

I don't remember off the top of my head. BUT... if the voltage gets lower as you open the throttle... move to the other side.
 
I'm sure you figured it out by now, but the positive lead goes to blue and the negative lead to brown. I struggled with this until I found a picture of the Merc Adapter online.

Cheers

What 2 of the 3 wires do I use to check the TPS if I'm using the pins and Multimeter???? The Middle to either of the outsides or both outsides?
 
Did you ever get this resolved Steves23? I have what sounds like the exact same problem with my 2002 Seadoo Challenger 2000/X20. I've changed out the air temp sensor and verified that the head temp sensor works... I've also ran various tests and it seems like the TPS sensor is working as it should be. But that smoke... I'm pretty sure that is why my neighbors don't talk to me any more. :( I've had a couple friends try to help (they have much more boating experience than I do) and we're going in the direction of either the TPS is not adjusted properly (idle seems fine and the boat goes great at full throttle) or some oil sending issue? It's hard to know... the shop manual is useful in some ways but still leaves a lot up in the air.

I've also put in new spark plugs - the NKG ones a couple months back (they seem black and oily already though). I've also flushed all the oil reservoirs and put in new Quicksilver oil to spec.

Anyway please let me know if you have any ideas or made progress. If not at least we can keep each other in the loop with our progress. :)

Cheers!
 
This is an old thread, and the original poster hasn't logged in since September 2015. So I don't think you will get an answer.

But it's a 2-stroke... you won't get rid of the smoke totally.
 
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