2000XP MPEM/ electrical question

[-Dan]

I have a no start no beep situation on a 2000XP. I originally thought it was the DESS post, as it failed the blk/ blk/ ylw wire continuity test. I replaced with new with no change.

My MPEM is not getting power, I have a good battery providing 12.5v at solenoid & no blown fuses. I tested (multimeter) every wire in all 3 AMP plug connectors and nothing is hot. I am 100% sure I had a good ground. My shop manual provides a good wiring schematic but I cannot determine where the MPEM gets its power from.

Does any one have any ideas? I am prepared for the worst (bad MPEM) but if I cannot determine that MPEM is getting power I cannot condemn it. I know you cannot test the module...but there must be a way to determine which wire provides the module with power.

Thanks

-Dan

 

[kustomkarl]

Dan, on most Mpem's it get is power from the starter solenoid. Follow the power wire from the battery to the solenoid. From there it follows a Red/Purple wire into the mpem...
I hope it helps you.

Karl

 

[-Dan]

Karl,

That definately helps. There is no power provided from solenoid, I thought that was were the power supply is from. However the solenoid tested good when I applied 12v to it so I ruled it out as problematic.

OK so I will replace the solenoid next...hopefully I am heading in the right direction.

Thanks
-Dan

 

[-Dan]

Forgot to mention that I have good continuity on that wire from the plug outside the electrical box to the AMP plug connector. Also 15a fuse is good.

 

[kustomkarl]

Dan, the battery goes to the side of the solenoid that also goes to the MPEM. IT is a constant hot connection. The other side of the solenoid goes to the starter. When it is triggered it closes from the battery/mpem side to the starter side. Check the positive wire from the battery as it should have 12 volts at the solenoid. Let me know how you make out.

Karl

 

[-Dan]

Karl,

I found that the hot lead (red) with the 15a fuse was not wired hot (or to the solenoid)...it was connected to one of the coil mount bolts with 3 other blk wires that should be going to ground.

I bought the ski for next to nothing not running. I looks brand new with good compression, so I took a chance. I will re-wire tommorow IAW the electrical schematic. Hopefully this is the only thing the guy messed with!

I cant find a good ground to hook the 3 blk wires to inside the electrical box. Any recommendations other than bringing new ground into e-box. The coil mount bolt is not a good ground now.

Thanks for your help

-Dan

 

[kustomkarl]

Dan, I figured something was wrong with your post on the wiring. Do you have a manual for the seadoo? If not you might want to become a "Premium Member" so you can download a manual to read on line or print off for you own personal and privet use. It has all the diagrams for the wiring to help you save time and have it in front of you while your working on the project.Click on the "Seadoo Manuals" link for details. I will be here to help with all that I can also. So if you get in a jam let me know.

Where do the other black ground wires come from? I'll check the manual to see what I can find...and repost back.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Dan I see that the 3 grounds ...2 go to the coils and one goes to a engine ground...follow the non coil, black wire and see if it leads to the engine as a ground.

 

[kustomkarl]

Dan, that engine ground is in the connector that the purple/ red wire is to the solenoid from the Mpem. It is in a double connector.

 

[-Dan]

Karl when I tested if those wires wires went to ground, I had the MPEM disconnected from the AMP plug connectors. I have been overly cautious not to inadvertantly damage the module while testing. If that wire goes thru the MPEM to ground then that makes sense why I found no good ground in e-box. Otherwise I have to think there is a bad ground wire/ connection.

I just got the seadoo manual. I will work on it this PM & post the results. Thanks a lot for the help.

 

[-Dan]

It's alive

I rewired it and got power to the MPEM, 2 beeps, and power at the start button. After a little persuasion it fired up after 5 years of sitting. The only thing not working (in driveway) is the fuel gauge. I'll trobleshoot that one after the test ride. initially the low oil light was on but it turned off after a couple of failed start attempts.

1 question; what is normal idle RPM... it is idleing around 3000 RPMs and it seems like it wants to RUN like a suped up crotch rocket.

I am still puzzeled as to what the original problem was that inspired someone to (improperly) re-wire the electrical box. Maybe the original DESS switch post, which I replaced, failed.

Thanks again for the help!

-Dan