2000 Speedster 240 Merc Gauge Help

[lilngineer]

None of our gauges are working on the speedster we just bought. I have checked the fuse in the block but it is ok.

Are these know to have issues? It seems very strange to me that they would all be out at the same time.

Also, the PO had a mechanic looking at the before with no luck and the fuse block was loose in the storage compartment. Since the wires easily come loose, can someone confirm the wire numbers/colors/and location on the fuse block? I want to make sure my problem isn't there. The service manual doesn't specify which wires go where on the block.


Thanks again guys!

 

[WAJetboating]

Lots of electrical things all going out at once usually means 1) power lead(s), 2) ground lead(s), or 3) fuse. Since you're also having issues with the fuse holder, I'd start there!

Schematics for your boat should be available in the manuals which I'm told are available on this site. In general, Seadoo uses purple for 12VDC and black for ground so as a quick test you might see if you have 12VDC across those two colors on the connectors going to your gauges.

Report back!

 

[lilngineer]

Ok I checked voltage across the purple and black leads and each gauge has 12 volts going to it.

I also checked the speed sensor and it shows constant 12volts when connected to the main harness with no variation when spun. So according to the manual it is likely bad.

Also I have an open circuit between the pink and pink/black leads on the fuel baffle. It too appears to be bad.

I haven't found where the engine sensor is for the tach or how to test it. Any help?

Also I looked at the service manual already for the fuse block connections but they are numbered with no position identified. The block has connections 1-16 stamped on it but I cannot verify that the correct wires are in the correct positions. I'm hoping someone with the same series can give me that info. The wire numbers are printed on the wires.

 

[WAJetboating]

I also checked the speed sensor and it shows constant 12volts when connected to the main harness with no variation when spun. So according to the manual it is likely bad.

Maybe. On the other hand, the pulses may be fast/narrow enough that your tes device (voltmeter?) can't see them. Do you have an oscilloscope? That will remove all doubt.

I haven't found where the engine sensor is for the tach or how to test it. Any help?

It comes off the regulators, and I believe it's just an unrectified signal from the stator itself. Each regulator has a grey wire; one of them will have a connection to it, the other will be left open. If you think the signal coming from one of the regulators is bad, just plug the grey wire into the other regulator to check. Again, an oscilloscope will remove all doubt.

Also I looked at the service manual already for the fuse block connections but they are numbered with no position identified. The block has connections 1-16 stamped on it but I cannot verify that the correct wires are in the correct positions. I'm hoping someone with the same series can give me that info. The wire numbers are printed on the wires.

I don't have that for your boat but the boat service manual (not engine, the fuse block is a Seadoo matter) should have it.

 

[lilngineer]

I don't have an oscilloscope but I have an accurate DMM.

I will look into the tach signal.

We took the boat out tonight and had an interesting observation:

For some history- on Sunday we took the boat out for the
afternoon. It ran great on the way out with no issues. On the way back it started sounding a constant alarm when I would accelerate out of the hole. It would continue until I brought it back down and turned it off. I would then start it up and no alarm until I got underway again. I thought for sure it was overheating from going through sone weedy areas.

Anyhow today, I replaced the ride seal (another story) and took it out. After leaving the dock it immediately began to alarm again when I got up on plane. So I turned it off and back on like yesterday but now the alarm stayed on. So I disconnected the temp sensor and tried again, but it still alarmed. Then I noticed the light on the reserve fuel switch was illuminated. I cycled the ignition and the alarm went off.

So- if I potentially have a bad fuel sender, would it still trigger the alarm for low fuel? And why does it happen erratically? To throw further confusion into it, I started it on the ramp on the way out and the alarm didn't sound. Seeing as though the sender is in the back of the tank this makes sense to me but not yesterday and today when I would get up on plane.

 

[lilngineer]

Also-

I am using the 2002 seadoo boat service manual from this forum. The diagram does not show the full pinout for the fuse block. The wire colors, wire numbers and circuit numbers are there but not the terminal locations on the block.

I really need a picture or a list from another member.

 

[lilngineer]

WAJetboating are you still around?

 

[WAJetboating]

WAJetboating are you still around?

Yes, sorry, busy with real life today {grin}.

I don't have your boat so I cannot provide a photo of the wiring. However, I've found the Seadoo schematics for that wiring block to be usable. I believe they're available for multiple boats on this site, plus hopefully someone with your boat will respond with photos.

WRT the alarm: I believe a constant tone indicates the engine is overheating. At least, it THINKS it's overheating. I suggest running the service manual's tests on the two temp sensors. There's one on each head. The tests are simple, and can be performed with that DMM you have.

Report back!

 

[lilngineer]

Yes, sorry, busy with real life today {grin}.

I don't have your boat so I cannot provide a photo of the wiring. However, I've found the Seadoo schematics for that wiring block to be usable. I believe they're available for multiple boats on this site, plus hopefully someone with your boat will respond with photos.

Wouldn't your 2001 Challenger have the same fuse block and electronics?

WRT the alarm: I believe a constant tone indicates the engine is overheating. At least, it THINKS it's overheating. I suggest running the service manual's tests on the two temp sensors. There's one on each head. The tests are simple, and can be performed with that DMM you have.

Report back!

I will check into the temp sensors but I believe that it is not overheating. We went out yesterday after refueling and had no beep at all.

Also, I remembered that I had some old working gauges left over from my challenger (fuel/oil & speedo). I hooked up the fuel/oil gauge to the boat wiring and the gauge fell all the way down when I turned the ignition on (even after refueling). That's telling me I most likely have a bad sender and probably a bad gauge too because mine doesn't even move when the ignition is cycled on. The oil light briefly comes on but that's it.

While on the lake I tried switching the grey wire off the recitifier from the tach with no luck either. So maybe a bad tach as well?

I did notice the speedo slightly moves up to zero when I turn the ignition on so maybe that is just the sender and the gauge is functional.

Ill keep at it.

 

[WAJetboating]

Wouldn't your 2001 Challenger have the same fuse block and electronics?

I will check into the temp sensors but I believe that it is not overheating. We went out yesterday after refueling and had no beep at all.

I doubt it's ACTUALLY overheating, I just think one or both of the sensors may be failing and making the ECU **believe** the engine is overheating. IIRC it's the sensor on the starboard head that is the "coolant" sensor and that's where I'd start.

While on the lake I tried switching the grey wire off the recitifier from the tach with no luck either. So maybe a bad tach as well?

It sounds like too many things "failed" simultaneously. To lose the sender AND the gauge, for example, seems odd. I believe it's much more likely that a single thing has failed and is causing these symptoms.

 

[lilngineer]

I tend to agree but the fact that there is power to all the gauges and none are working seems odd.

For each one, there is only power and a signal wire. If its not power, doesnt it pretty much have to be the sender or the gauge or both. Is there any possibility that the ECU can shut down the gauges? I'm pretty sure it has nothing to do with it.

About the only other conclusion I can draw is that it may be the fuse block. But as of yet, I have no way to at least verify the connections.

Does your 2001 challenger use the same fuse block?

 

[WAJetboating]

I tend to agree but the fact that there is power to all the gauges and none are working seems odd.

Ask yourself what else is common to all these things. My first thought is the wiring harness... all those wires run through the harness, right? What if a harness connector was loose?

Just thinking outside the box a bit.... {grin}

Does your 2001 challenger use the same fuse block?

No idea, but I'll take a photo and send it just in case. Back soon!

 

[lilngineer]

Thanks. Looking forward to it!

 

[John Churn]

I am fighting the same thing on a 2004 Sporster 4 TEC.

When I got the boat No speedo,No gas gauge,no tach. All the motor functions were good.

All had common 12volt supply from the gauge fuse. 12v and grounds good. Still didn't work.

Changed the speedo wheel and cable at the back. Can't seem to get any output when spinning the wheel. Speedo still doesn't work. Still testing.

Changed fuel sending unit. Gas gauge stayed on full. Tank only 3/4 full.

Changed fuel gauge with new one. Still stays on full. When I took the old gauge out it returned to empty. When the boat is powered off the fuel gauge stays on full. I assume it is supposed to return to empty and when you operate the Dess it should power up. New gauge and new sending unit. Still under investigation.

Replaced tach. It works but appears to be reading higher rpms than it should.
I didn't change any of the options on the back. Now I need to know the options for the 2004 4 TEC Sporster. Anyone have that?

This has really been a struggle. I 've got $ 400 in new gauges and still only one works half way right.

Damn Boats

 

[WAJetboating]

Thanks. Looking forward to it!

OK, here you go. I took several photos and I'm posting the four that seem to show things the best. In the last two, I'm holding the wires "straightened" a bit so you can see how each color connects to the fuse block.

I lowered my camera's resolution to keep the files small, but I don't have Photoshop on my laptop so I couldn't downsample them (I usually use 800x600). They may take a moment to download for you.

Hope this helps!

 

[John Churn]

Is this picture for the Challenger?

 

[WAJetboating]

Is this picture for the Challenger?

Yep, since that's the only Seadoo boat that I own {grin}.

I have no idea if they're the same. I mentioned that but was asked to post the photos anyway, so I did!

 

[lilngineer]

Thanks a lot! That should help tremendously!

Also I believe it is the same fuse block for both since they use the same manual and wire diagram.

Report back soon...

 

[lilngineer]

Well got some progress with the gauges.

I ordered a new fuel baffle and that took care of the gas gauge.

The tach gauge is dead. I ordered a new one but it was made for a 99 and doesn't work properly with the 2000 engine. But it definitely was a bad gauge.

And the speedo was also the pickup. I ordered a 3-wire but needed a 2-wire. I hooked it up anyway and it worked spinning the paddle wheel by hand but won't work while driving. I don't get it??

 

[WAJetboating]

And the speedo was also the pickup. I ordered a 3-wire but needed a 2-wire. I hooked it up anyway and it worked spinning the paddle wheel by hand but won't work while driving.

Slight mechanical difference that prevents the water from properly spinning the wheel? It might direct/channel the water slightly differently for the two sensors.

 

[challenger01]

lilngineer,

I have a 2001 Challenger 2000 which stopped reading fuel level (always shows empty), but the oil light works. All other gauges work fine.

Did you replace the entire baffle, or change the float?

Has anybody changed the floats on this era of fuel baffle? I didn't do a diagnostic test yet so it may be a bad fuse as well.

Could you let me know what part number you used and if you ordered on-line, if you could suggest a retailer.

Thanks

 

[lilngineer]

Slight mechanical difference that prevents the water from properly spinning the wheel? It might direct/channel the water slightly differently for the two sensors.

I would like to believe that but they look identical. Honestly I think the new 3-wire spins easier in fact. It just doesn't make any sense. How can it work out of the water but not when underway?

 

[lilngineer]

Did you replace the entire baffle, or change the float?

Has anybody changed the floats on this era of fuel baffle? I didn't do a diagnostic test yet so it may be a bad fuse as well.

Could you let me know what part number you used and if you ordered on-line, if you could suggest a retailer.

Thanks

The float is not available as a seperate part new. I ordered my baffle from the dealer at a tune of $169 plus tax (ouch). I am not sure of the p/n but I know the original was superceded.

If you follow the service manual, the baffle is easy to check with an ohm meter. From the sound of it it sounds like your baffle is bad. Mine did the same thing. The oil light worked but the gauge never moved off empty.

 

[challenger01]

Thanks for the info about the baffle.

I noticed that some owners of seadoo jet skis have been successful with replacing the floats when they are saturated and no longer float, or reattaching the magnets if they fall off, but I have not read about anyone successfully doing that with any early 2000's challengers.

http://www.seadoosource.com/fuelfloatinstall.html

I don't know if this will work for an 01 challenger 2000

This is a video of reattaching the magnets.

http://www.youtube.com/comment_servlet?all_comments=1&v=Hfb_G_h8PLQ