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2000 Merc 240 EFI aftermarket throttle position sensor

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Tim75

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2001 Challenger 2000
#1
Hello Everyone. I am new to the formus, but not to jet boats. I built one in high school (9ft. w/ 82 hp snowmobile engine) to my present Seadoo 2001 Challenger 2000 w/ Merc 240 EFI.
I have a bad TPS. Erratic resistance (unplugged) through all rotation. This TPS had been replaced 3 years ago for $230 (parts only), I do all my own work.
Now that same TPS is $580!!!!! Has mercury gone insane???? This unit is NOT gold-plated. I don't know what is so special about this unit, but for the price, it should last forever.
Does anyone know of an aftermarket unit? If NO, does anyone know what the RESISTANCE Ώ of the TPS at 0º and full rotation from center terminal and to each outside terminal? If I can find an automotive Ώ equivalent, I will make a substitute TPS. And of course, supply info and results here.

(My compression is 137-145.)

Thanks for any info.
 


Tim75

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Location
Fort Pierce, FL
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2001 Challenger 2000
#3

Tim75

Active Member
Messages
451
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29
Location
Fort Pierce, FL
Water Crafts
2001 Challenger 2000
#4
I found an "old stock" (REALLY old) TPS for $125. It had a round connector. 5 minutes later, it had a flat connector. Installed on engine, set at idle 0.24 volts, 7.56 volts at WOT. (My supplier only had one unit.)
Almost perfect to spec. Boat ran better than it has in 3 months. Idles at 1100 RPM in water, WOT 5800. That is as high as it has ever been.

If you use an old style TPS, cut wires nest to the round connector, on the OLD TPS, cut wires nest to the TPS body. This will give enough wire to work with. Solder, tape, heat-shrink the wires. 2 of the 3 wires are the same color between the units. I would NOT use crimp connectors because of corrosion issues.

If you have a merc EFI engine with issues, check the TPS. It's easy to do. Disconnect it from the harness. Use tiny jumper cables (Radio Shack) on on the center terminal, one on either outer terminal. Other ends of jumpers to a OHM meter, set at 20KΏ. SLOWLY advance the throttle. Reading should change smoothly with no jumps or drops. This test works best using an analog meter (the one with a needle pointer). Check the other outer terminal the same way. If both terminals change smoothly, you probably have other issues.

I have not given up on an alternative to Mercury TPS.
 

Dr Honda

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#5
Do you have the part number on the old one?


It may be what we need. It's easy to change a plug if you can save $400.
 

Tim75

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#6
P/N

Do you have the part number on the old one?


It may be what we need. It's easy to change a plug if you can save $400.
The OLD tps # is 14851T. I got different numbers for superseded units, but this # is off the Mercury package. It is the same resistance as mentioned in your thread about Merc tps. Physically, a perfect fit.

Hope you can find one. There was on (yesterday) on ebay, but it was used. I decided to pass on it because I have a (dead) used one.
 

Dr Honda

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'02 Islandia 240 EFI
#7
Well.... it looks like you got a good deal, if your local dealer sold you a new one for $125.

It's still an available part number, and the retail is $500 just like the normal TPS. The one on eBay for $130 is used... and since these things fail so often... I'm not buying a used one.


Oh well... I was hopping you found something good.
 
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