1998 Sportster oil injection system

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jutman18

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Hi everyone. I have a 1998 sportster. To make a long story short. The oil injection system has been completely removed from my boat by the previous owners. I think the only thing that’s still on it is the injector pump. I premixed the gas and oil the couple of times I used it last year. The questions is should I spend the money and time trying to reinstall the system? Or just keep the headache of mixing oil and the occasional smoke at idle? I’m sorry if someone has posted something about this. I thought I had saw something one time but I couldn’t remember where.
Thanks Justin
 

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You can not run it that way! The rotary gear and crank that drives it requires a constant oil bath or it will destroy itself. You can loop a hose and always keep oil in it or reinstall the tank. Also if the pump is still there and the gear wasn’t removed it will also destroy itself from lack of oil.
The oil system on these are the most reliable in the industry. You will recoup the cost to fix it in oil savings in less than a season if you use it a lot.
 
You need to find the fittings on the bottom of the motor and be certain you have oil to the rotary valve gears like mikidy said before you run it at all. The black thing in those fotos is your fuel pump, the oil pump is on the rotary valve cover below the air box, to properly disable it you take the RV cover off and remove the plastic gear that drives it and it won't burn up the pump. I would stare at the service manual for your boat and understand 100% what's missing because you're out an oil tank at the very least. Westside powersports will probably have the parts you need to get it straight. Premixing the boat sucks, my oil injection is getting fixed this year cause I'm tired of it and I used like 6 gallons of oil last year.
 
Ok I did some more looking and found the looped oil lines. So I believe the gears are still there. The person I got it for said the person before them disabled it because of something about the cable on the pump breaks. And he had to replace one of the motors because of this. Does anyone know about this? What should I check to make sure that part of the system is right?? And lastly where can I find the oil injection system parts drawing?
Thanks everyone again
Justin
 
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He was incorrect in that if the cable breaks the oil pump goes full open to save the engine. It will smoke like crazy but your engine will be fine.

The main issues are the little 3/32" oil lines from the pump to the intake manifold get old and brittle and can break starving the engine for oil or using the wrong oil can gel in eht oil filter starving the engine of oil.

1. Clean the oil system and get all the old oil out.
2. Install new 3/32" oil lines.
3. Install a new oil filter.
4. Fill with approved API-TC oil only.
5. Bleed the oil pump.
6. With the engine at idle hold the oil lever wide open until the 3/32" oil lines fill with oil.
7. Enjoy your boat.
 
The shop manual is what you need for some drawings. The gear mikidy is referring to is the one that drives the oil pump and if it is not taken out the oil pump continues to run with no supply. It's a separate issue from the rotary gears
 
Thanks everyone for the great information. I did some more in depth look this afternoon. And under the intake on BOTH the motors are blue plates. I’m guess block off plates for the pump and gears y’all were referring to. So the question now is. About how much is it going to cost for the complete system? Where can I get both pumps? And are the parts interchangeable with different years/models?
Thanks everyone again
 
At the very least you're going to need all the hoses, 2 oil pumps, 2 cables, a tank and sensor, and some filters. You have to pull the blue plates off to see if the parts that drive the oil pumps are still there and that they spin when you turn the motor over if not you'll need that stuff too. Hard to say what else could be missing with out actually seeing the boat.
 
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