I would like to convert my Seadoo 717 to premix. Is it a case of just of emptying the oil reservoir and then pre mixing? I read somewhere that you need to fit a blanking plate if you take the pump off and you need to make sure that the valve disc gear gets lube. Any help appreciated.
1998 717 GS convert to pre-mix
- Thread starter gkm24
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Nate Surveyor
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The generally accepted way to doo this is to:
Remove the oil injector pump. Remove the teflon drive shaft, that turns it. Cover the hole with a blocking plate.
LEAVE the 2 oil lines that go down under the motor, to lube the rotary gear. LEAVE oil in the injection tank, to service the 2 lines gong down to the rotary gear, and ride.
There are block off plate kits available, although I am not too sure where.
A minor down side to dooing this, is that you will consume MORE oil per hour of riding, than with the injector. (The injector is variable rate, less oil at idle, more at WOT). AND, since you will be running a DIRECT proportion of fuel/oil (usually 40:1, or 50:1) you will consume MORE oil at an idle, with premix, than with the old injection system. This means, that while running at slow speeds, (especially in NO WAKE zones, the oil TENDS to separate out of the fuel, while idling, IN THE CRANKCASE. This built up oil syrup will then have to be burnt off, when you finally to hit the throttle. Thus, you will foul the plugs more often. And, if it was a long NO WAKE zone, then there will be more smoke, when you burn off the excess oil which settles into the crankcase. So, to be safe, I'd be sure to take a few extra spark plugs, and a plug wrench with me, and make some sort of pouch to carry it, without banging them around in the "trunk".
I hope this helps you understand what are the usually accepted trade offs.
If you don't ride NO WAKE very much, or none at all, pre mix will ASSURE you that you are lubing the motor, that is, the up side to pre mix is that you can rest assured that the motor is getting oil.
Sorry so wordy. Too much turkey yesterday!
Nate
Remove the oil injector pump. Remove the teflon drive shaft, that turns it. Cover the hole with a blocking plate.
LEAVE the 2 oil lines that go down under the motor, to lube the rotary gear. LEAVE oil in the injection tank, to service the 2 lines gong down to the rotary gear, and ride.
There are block off plate kits available, although I am not too sure where.
A minor down side to dooing this, is that you will consume MORE oil per hour of riding, than with the injector. (The injector is variable rate, less oil at idle, more at WOT). AND, since you will be running a DIRECT proportion of fuel/oil (usually 40:1, or 50:1) you will consume MORE oil at an idle, with premix, than with the old injection system. This means, that while running at slow speeds, (especially in NO WAKE zones, the oil TENDS to separate out of the fuel, while idling, IN THE CRANKCASE. This built up oil syrup will then have to be burnt off, when you finally to hit the throttle. Thus, you will foul the plugs more often. And, if it was a long NO WAKE zone, then there will be more smoke, when you burn off the excess oil which settles into the crankcase. So, to be safe, I'd be sure to take a few extra spark plugs, and a plug wrench with me, and make some sort of pouch to carry it, without banging them around in the "trunk".
I hope this helps you understand what are the usually accepted trade offs.
If you don't ride NO WAKE very much, or none at all, pre mix will ASSURE you that you are lubing the motor, that is, the up side to pre mix is that you can rest assured that the motor is getting oil.
Sorry so wordy. Too much turkey yesterday!
Nate
There is another downside to premixing your fuel/oil. After you start adding oil to the fuel tank, you will be passing a fuel/oil mix through the carburetor. From the factory, it is designed to only have fuel passed through the jets and orafices, so adding oil to the fuel may cause the carburetor to act a little differently, possibly causing you to take it apart every once in a while and clean it out. But other than that, it is a good idea for "sure" oiling.
Nate Surveyor
New Member
EVTech is right:agree:
Adding oil, thickens the mix, running through the carb. This leans the ski. Probably should open the jets just a bit, to allow more space in the carb jets, to let it run right.
It is all a balanced system, and you are messing about with the balance!
N
Adding oil, thickens the mix, running through the carb. This leans the ski. Probably should open the jets just a bit, to allow more space in the carb jets, to let it run right.
It is all a balanced system, and you are messing about with the balance!
N
matt79
New Member
premix
My suggestion would be to leave the injection system in. I put a label on my oil tank with numbers and lines to see that the oil in the tank was dropping enough each time I ride it.
We just rebuilt my friends 718. The oil system not only mixes the fuel but supplies a gravity feed to make sure there is a constant level in the middle part of the crankcase where the rotary valve drive gear is. If you must remove the oil injection system:
1. premix your fuel
2. connect a clear tube from the bottom outlet coming from the middle part of the crankcase.
3. Fill the crankcase down that tube with normal seadoo oil until it comes out of the fitting on the exhaust side of the crankcase. then you know that you have filled it right up.
4. loop your clear hose from the carby side around to the exhaust side and hose clamp it on.
This way you can see that there is a good oil level in there and you can also see the condition of the oil.
hope that helps a bit
My suggestion would be to leave the injection system in. I put a label on my oil tank with numbers and lines to see that the oil in the tank was dropping enough each time I ride it.
We just rebuilt my friends 718. The oil system not only mixes the fuel but supplies a gravity feed to make sure there is a constant level in the middle part of the crankcase where the rotary valve drive gear is. If you must remove the oil injection system:
1. premix your fuel
2. connect a clear tube from the bottom outlet coming from the middle part of the crankcase.
3. Fill the crankcase down that tube with normal seadoo oil until it comes out of the fitting on the exhaust side of the crankcase. then you know that you have filled it right up.
4. loop your clear hose from the carby side around to the exhaust side and hose clamp it on.
This way you can see that there is a good oil level in there and you can also see the condition of the oil.
hope that helps a bit
Grey fuel lines?.........
While this may be true, that they don't all deteriate or that it may be regional, there has been notices sent out by Bombardier that these lines needed to be replaced. In the forum, there is a pix, I think by JPX, that shows the fuel line from the outside, it looks brand new, then on the inside, it show where the inner part of the fuel lining has seperated. Causeing a restriction to fuel flow or cutting it off all together........
So, in the forum, it's by survey, that over 90% of our members have eleted to change these lines rather than to wait for proplems to occur..........:cheers:
While this may be true, that they don't all deteriate or that it may be regional, there has been notices sent out by Bombardier that these lines needed to be replaced. In the forum, there is a pix, I think by JPX, that shows the fuel line from the outside, it looks brand new, then on the inside, it show where the inner part of the fuel lining has seperated. Causeing a restriction to fuel flow or cutting it off all together........
So, in the forum, it's by survey, that over 90% of our members have eleted to change these lines rather than to wait for proplems to occur..........:cheers:
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