1997 GSI conversion kit

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TonyTerri

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Does any one know if they make a conversion kit. Can't find a mpem for it. So thinking about swapping the electrical system out to a different system
 
I actually looked into this while I was fighting my diode issue.. I was going to convert all my wiring over from my 97 GS. It looks like it would swap cleanly but you lose all funtionality of the INFO console and VTS and would be basically turning the GSI into a GS. If you scour the wiring diagrams, you will see the 2 systems are obnoxiously different but if you change out all the wiring, theoretically I think it could be done..
 
I'm staring at the wiring right now trying to figure your no spark issue... can you confirm this fuse in your rear ebox is good? Should be a 15a fuse
 

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Yes all fuses are good. I get two beeps when dess key is put on post. Won't crank over and I have check the start stop button I have no power going to it. Starter relay has no power when start stop button is pushed. Check start stop button to the mpem for open. Only time the circuit is open when the start stop button is not pushed.
 
That could be part of the issue. Ive read if the batt isnt over 12.7 there could be issues... JUST DONT JUMP FROM A RUNNING CAR!!!!
 
I have put a low amp charger on it over night and tried it the next day still nothing. But I will check the voltage again.
 
Looks like @Bill-H was having the same issue as you in this 98 GS, no start thread.. post #9. His was a bad starter relay...I think you said yours will spin if you bridge the relay.. correct?
Yes your right if I jump the relay across main post it will spin over. I have also unplugged the relay connector and used a power and ground test light and hit the power switch on test light to make the relay work also. So I know the relay is good. Just no power going to the start stop switch from the mpem
 
Yes your right if I jump the relay across main post it will spin over. I have also unplugged the relay connector and used a power and ground test light and hit the power switch on test light to make the relay work also. So I know the relay is good. Just no power going to the start stop switch from the mpem

Hopefully @mikidymac or @kmarts will chime in if I am incorrect..

When you bridge the relay, you are closing the "open" circuit the relay reverts back to.. basically running direct batt power to the starter.. which is why the starter spins.. The start switch energizes the relay to "close" the circuit and direct batt power to the starter.
Your start switch could very well be bad but all ive read and wiring ive chased thru the diagram points to the relay being shot. If yours is one of the brown ones, its well overdue and crazy its lasted as long as it has. If it were me, I would order both parts and change one at a time..starting with the relay.. Both are very easy to change.
 
Hopefully @mikidymac or @kmarts will chime in if I am incorrect..

When you bridge the relay, you are closing the "open" circuit the relay reverts back to.. basically running direct batt power to the starter.. which is why the starter spins.. The start switch energizes the relay to "close" the circuit and direct batt power to the starter.
Your start switch could very well be bad but all ive read and wiring ive chased thru the diagram points to the relay being shot. If yours is one of the brown ones, its well overdue and crazy its lasted as long as it has. If it were me, I would order both parts and change one at a time..starting with the relay.. Both are very easy to change.
I have used a multi meter and check the starter circuit to the mpem check ohms. When the start stop switch is push I has continued. Hooked up the mpem back probe the wires no power coming from start stop switch out of the mpem.
 
I have used a multi meter and check the starter circuit to the mpem check ohms. When the start stop switch is push I has continued. Hooked up the mpem back probe the wires no power coming from start stop switch out of the mpem.
Can you post what pins you are checking(wire colors) and what the readings are? Also would you mind posting a pic of the connections inside your rear ebox? Trying to get a visual to match to the diagram
 
Ok I can when I get home from work.
Cool... Im still leaning towards the relay being bad... you could check the wires on the start button connector up front.. they could be loose or even pinched under the handle bars.

Does the rest of the electrical function properly? Everything on Info gauge works? VTS works? Fuel gauge reads correct?
 

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It does with the dess key on the post but take key off and press start button five times and it don't do any thing.
 
It does with the dess key on the post but take key off and press start button five times and it don't do any thing.

Thats a good bit of info... On my GSI, when you push the start button once, with no key, the gauge lights up. I just read somewhere either the key -or- pushing the button starts the 33 second ignition cycle. 5 pushes would start the diagnostic check...

The yellow-red wire is the common factor.. It runs from the ebox relay thru the mpem to the start switch.. I would chase that wire thru the ski and see if there are any breaks, loose connections or shorts...Theres a 4 pin plug that wire runs thru in the back left of the engine compartment... Check the grounds associated with the YL-RE wire too.
 
Red and yellow wire goes to the starter relay in the ebox next to battery. No power to it at all. But the red and blue wore has power coming off the top of the starter relay. Tracing it our now
 
Pin 24 on the plug under the rectifier has 12.50 volts plugged in or unplugged. The other big plug on the red and blue wire has 5.0 volts. Now checking all fuses with volt meter all fuses only have 5 volts
 
Sorry I do have 12.50 volts to all fuses. My ground end on my meter was not on good causing it to read low voltage. Also the red and blue wire has 12.50 volts.
 
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