1996 XP - Oil Injection delete - complete, tank removed

[7TCUDA]

I recently purchased this XP knowing it had the injection delete. What I did not realize is that PO removed all lines to the rotary valve. I have located brass plugs where the nipples should be. I am hoping they have a trapped volume of oil in there but have yet to pull the plug under the carbs to find out as I am still fixing it's other challenges.
When I get the plug out and drain it, should I be filling the cavity nearly full, (xp propped up on it's side) or what is reccommended?

To me this does not seem like a very good solution as it is very akward to maintain which means it will probably get ignored too long. If I could find a complete injection system close to home, (getting tired of stupid high shipping prices from the US) I would really consider taking it back to the way the system was designed.

 

[brock1]

you cant just fill it and be done you need to hook up a line in and a return line either in a loop style or just find a new oil tank..(best) option....................if you decide to go looped system make sure you fill it till al air is out.....FYI depending on how long it was run like that your RV is probubly toast

 

[Spimothy Leary]

you cant just fill it and be done you need to hook up a line in and a return line either in a loop style or just find a new oil tank..(best) option....................if you decide to go looped system make sure you fill it till al air is out.....FYI depending on how long it was run like that your RV is probubly toast

agree, if it was long enough, then the rv is fubar,

honestly, getting to that nipple is really friggen hard ! you have to have alien arms to get to it w/o popping the pipe, taking out the mount and leaning it on its side.

essentially you have to just make the loop, what I did was installed on of these T fittings, (local auto parts store, a T flush valve), $1

or you can go on ebay and order a little resivior for like $10, make the nipple fit the hose and then you'll have a little extra cushion.

note: if your seal's don't leak, once you get the air pockets out, you only really just need to check your levels every other ride or so, I check my levels all the time, but usually i only lost about a tablespoon's worth. obviously, my seals don't leak.. but the first few times I rode it, i thought it was leaking bad because it kept dropping, then after like 3 top-offs, i guess all the bubbles came out, and i never have to worry.

my friend has the little tank, his leaks, has to add an oz or two dam near every ride.

as far as it being ignored, well,you know yourself, what I usually do is just check it when i'm filling the gas tank, i have the oil container and a funnel in my hand, what better time ?

 

[7TCUDA]

Thanks for the replies.
Guess I know what I am doing this weekend! Since I have 80% of the engine disconnected, I am going to yank it so I can get at the plugs and replace with nipples. Will make it much easier to pull the flywheel anyway.
I will probably use a hydraulic clutch resovoir or similar from some of the car projects we been working on.

 

[ocod]

I have a oil tank with thru hull fitting for cap and sensor if your interested.

 

[7TCUDA]

1996 XP - Oil Injection delete - complete, tank removed - my reservoir solution.

Oil lines reinstalled. Not exactly the most fun to do with an installed engine, but possible with removing the pipe.
I used a 1997 Eagle Talon brake master cylinder reservoir. Works very well, even has a fluid level float, though I have to test if switch is normally open/closed to work with the 'doo light.
Here are a couple pics of how it worked out.
By the way, my reference to ignoring the RV oil level was in reference to the previous owner, not me... and I think he did, the RV was dry. Guess we will see how long it lives now that it has some lubrication.
If I decide to keep this XP, I will probably take it back to injection.

Thanks for all the input.