RESTO 1996 Speedster

[SteveDavisLP]

Picked it up last week and it needs some serious TLC. Starting off trying to get the motors running well. They are newer SBT rebuilds with 10 hours or so on them. The motors run very eratic....the carbs were rebuilt with aftermarket carb kits and I believe the neddle and seats etc were not changed so we will rebuild them right and go from there.
The gas gauge was not working so I pulled the baffle and it looks like probably the old original float was in it. It would test ok while in the full location but once the flat slids downwards an inch or so it quit reading so maybe a new white float will fix that. My initial question is that the PO's have bypassed the fuel selectors and are just running a fuel line out of the RES nipple to a pump bulb, to a fram type filter, then a T to each motor. I am trying to decide whether it is worth it or not to rerig the fuel selectors and seadoo filters. Since the baffle only shows one return nipple I assume the additional motor carb return line should be hooked up to the vent nipple?

The PO's also disconnected the oil system probably because of the new engine recs plus they put a full size battery in it and the way they put it in probably hit the oil tank....... I probably want to hook it back up but all I have is one pump so I will be on the look out for a tank and another oil pump.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I would definitely keep the full size battery. As for the oil system, sounds like they're running pre-mix. Have the oil pumps been removed? If not, they could burn out from lack of lubrication and seize the Rotary Valve (RV). Before you rebuild the carbs, did you check the plugs? That's always step number 1 with seadoo engines. Sounds like they have a marine fuel/water separator installed. You can keep it or go back to the seadoo setup, but I'd definitely install the fuel selector back in. These boats are THIRSTY and it just might save your ass knowing you're on reserve. Those fuel selectors are pretty troublefree and easy to rebuild. They can be taken apart, cleaned, and the o-ring replaced. Nothing to it.

 

[SteveDavisLP]

I would definitely keep the full size battery. As for the oil system, sounds like they're running pre-mix. Have the oil pumps been removed? If not, they could burn out from lack of lubrication and seize the Rotary Valve (RV). Before you rebuild the carbs, did you check the plugs? That's always step number 1 with seadoo engines. Sounds like they have a marine fuel/water separator installed. You can keep it or go back to the seadoo setup, but I'd definitely install the fuel selector back in. These boats are THIRSTY and it just might save your ass knowing you're on reserve. Those fuel selectors are pretty troublefree and easy to rebuild. They can be taken apart, cleaned, and the o-ring replaced. Nothing to it.

They did remove the oil pumps and went to premix and they did blow the motors up due to lack of lubrication. I will rebuild the carbs as I know the used the cheapest rebuild carb kit on eBay plus they did not change the needle and seats.
I plan on going back to the original fuel delivery system but was not sure where the extra fuel return line hooked to the baffle....I assumed to the vent nipple as the tank has a larger vent hose built in to it.
Just need to hunt down the oil system components.

 

[SteveDavisLP]

Well I replaced the baffle float and it tests fine from full to 1/4 full (75). Once you go less than 1/4 full it goes to an open circuit. I have not seen this issue in any of the other related threads. Is there a break in the solder at that spot?

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

The baffle should have 4 holes: On, Res, Ret, and Vent. I forget now how the vent was hooked up on my Challenger, as it hasn't had a 2-stroke in it in some years. I do know that those tanks have their own 5/8" vent on the starboard side, so running your carb return should be okay there, I suppose. As for it not registering the last bit of fuel, I do recall someone mentioning that they have to be soldered somewhere, and that they can be fixed. Sorry, I've never had to do this, and don't know much else beyond that.

 

[SteveDavisLP]

The baffle should have 4 holes: On, Res, Ret, and Vent. I forget now how the vent was hooked up on my Challenger, as it hasn't had a 2-stroke in it in some years. I do know that those tanks have their own 5/8" vent on the starboard side, so running your carb return should be okay there, I suppose. As for it not registering the last bit of fuel, I do recall someone mentioning that they have to be soldered somewhere, and that they can be fixed. Sorry, I've never had to do this, and don't know much else beyond that.

Thanks for the reply......sometimes it is tough following up behind a couple of previous owners and their modifications which may or may not have been a good idea
On soldering the board I will search a little more if you remember it being discussed before.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I believe Nick at Westside Powersports knows more about the soldering thing. His handle here is Minnetonka4me ( Minnetonka4me ) He is a long-time Seadoo guy and runs a parts business. If you ever need any used OE PWC parts, he's the guy to go to. I've gotten several items from him in the past. Great and reliable source of parts and knowledge.

 

[SteveDavisLP]

I believe Nick at Westside Powersports knows more about the soldering thing. His handle here is Minnetonka4me ( Minnetonka4me ) He is a long-time Seadoo guy and runs a parts business. If you ever need any used OE PWC parts, he's the guy to go to. I've gotten several items from him in the past. Great and reliable source of parts and knowledge.

Actually I was going to contact him later this week to see what he had as far as the oil injection system parts. Thanks for the reply.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Anytime