1996 Seadoo XP won’t start-replaced solenoid and starter.

[Marc 123]

Hi Guys,

I just picked up a 96 XP and It wouldn’t start, just clicked. Replaced the starter solenoid becuase it looked rusty and I thought that was it.

It wasn’t, replaced the starter as well and got it to try and turn over but won’t turn over. Just makes a clunking noise like it’s trying to turn over but can’t.

The old starter was rusted brown on the inside and looked wet.

I’m guessing this motor is done for. The spark plugs look dry but I’m guessing there is water in the bottom of the engine.

Can anyone tell me what I’m looking at to get it running again and if the motor is most likely seized?

Thank you.

 

[Marc 123]

I also replaced the ignition coil. Could it be something else that’s not allowing it to turn?

 

[ALLLCAPSRAGE]

Turn the flywheel by hand to see if the motor is locked up

 

[Marc 123]

Will not turn by hand…

 

[ALLLCAPSRAGE]

Spray penetrating oil into the spark plug holes periodically over a few hours then try and free it up by hand, motor is most likely toast but won’t hurt to try

 

[artr]

Take off the jetpump and try to turn the motor over by hand. If you are lucky the pump is seized and not the motor.

 

[Marc 123]

Hi guys,

So I was able to get the engine to turn by spraying deep penetrating oil in the spark plug holes, used close to a whole can, and I had to take off the outer jet pump housing to get access to the nut on the jet pump.

It took me some wiggling and hard turning to finally get it to turn over.

I hooked the battery back up without the spark plugs in and it starts and turns over. It was smoking from the spark plug holes and smelt like burnt penetrating oil.

What should be my next steps to actually start and run the thing? I don’t want to mess anything up…it does sound as if there may be liquid in the bottom of the engine.

Thank you.

 

[ALLLCAPSRAGE]

I’m certainly not an expert in any way but what I would do is remove the head and take a look at the condition of the cylinders, I’d look for scoring and rust. Not really familiar with the 800s but I do think you can look at the skirts of the pistons for scoring by removing the rave valves. Then if all looks good, check compression. I don’t think there’s any way of checking crank bearings without disassembling the whole engine. So if they’re going to go, they’re going to go. After everything looks good I’d run premix gas for the first start.

 

[Marc 123]

Okay so I pulled off the rave valves and one of the pistons looked great and the other looked slightly scored with some brownness on the piston.

I did a compression test on the front cylinder (good looking one) and it kept raising until about 220 psi and then the rear cylinder towards the back of the ski was around 150ish?? It does have a aftermarket head on it and it seems whoever owned this ski before modded the rave valves and other things.

I believe there may be liquid in the crank case cause the compression tester seemed wet.

Any thoughts on this? And how can I remove the liquid from the crank case?

Thanks.

 

[mikidymac]

Cranking it with the plugs out will help bring the oil up from the crank. You need to get it running to get all the oil out.

 

[Marc 123]

Cranking it with the plugs out will help bring the oil up from the crank. You need to get it running to get all the oil out.

Okay sounds good. So just to be clear, put everything back together, premix some fuel, and start it up and run it?