1995 seadoo xp grey fuel lines???

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mallo1216

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Ive been doing alot of research considering this is my first owned and maintained seadoo. I came across something about grey fuel lines and they should be replaced if you're a responsible seadoo owner? Is this a real thing??? oil lines too? whats it all about? and while on the topic of oil, this may be a dumb question, but when doing an oil change how much oil should i be putting back in there? Thanks in advance guys, it winterized right now and it runs, just dont want to turn it into a nonrunning ski right as the weather is starting to warm up
 
1st, change all fuel lines
2nd, take the carbs off and clean and then rebuild.
3rd, change the oil lines along with the oil filter.
4th, You dont do a oil change on a 2 stroke engine. You will drain the oil out of the oil tank then replace with seadoo oil. What color of oil is in the ski right now?
5th, change the plugs. BR8ES
6th, drain the fuel tank out and clean it out the best you can
7th, pull the pump off the back and change oil and check the wear ring.

****BUT BE FOR YOU START ANY OF THIS YOU NEED TO DO A COMPRESSION TEST ON THE ENGINE. NEW IS 150PSI IN EACH HOLE***

If you have any question just ask. let me know what you all come up with
 
1st, change all fuel lines
2nd, take the carbs off and clean and then rebuild.
3rd, change the oil lines along with the oil filter.
4th, You dont do a oil change on a 2 stroke engine. You will drain the oil out of the oil tank then replace with seadoo oil. What color of oil is in the ski right now?
5th, change the plugs. BR8ES
6th, drain the fuel tank out and clean it out the best you can
7th, pull the pump off the back and change oil and check the wear ring.

****BUT BE FOR YOU START ANY OF THIS YOU NEED TO DO A COMPRESSION TEST ON THE ENGINE. NEW IS 150PSI IN EACH HOLE***

If you have any question just ask. let me know what you all come up with

150 compression in both cylinders, oil color looks good, just low right now. Brand new spark plugs. What size are the lines and clamps??? Its also winterized with antifreeze right now, and i cant find the steps to dewinterize it ANYWHERE. Doing everything in my power not to blow any seals up
 
just chill. all you do is start the ski and its dewinterized. what do you mean the oil color looks good? What color is the oil? Blue? Clear? Green?
 
Also to be clear the only oil lines that need to be changed are the little 3/32" ones from the oil pump to the intake manifold.
 
Its a blueish color
You have the wrong oil for that ski.

You will need to drain and clean out the tank, flush the rotary valve cavity, install a new oil filter and bleed the oil lines.

You can't run that oil in a seadoo. You have to use an API-TC rated oil, never anything that says TCW-3. Seadoo, Amsoil, Mystic and Lucas are to only approved oils I can think of at the moment.
 
THATS BAD! That is walmart oil. you can get it for about $12. That ski is made to run on Seadoo oil. Im not just saying that because its "SEADOO OIL". It has to do with the build up of carbon in the engine. That problem will need to be addressed but 1st lets Start over here.

How did you check the compression? Did you turn the fuel off ? and hold the throttle open?
 
150 compression in both cylinders, oil color looks good, just low right now. Brand new spark plugs. What size are the lines and clamps??? Its also winterized with antifreeze right now, and i cant find the steps to dewinterize it ANYWHERE. Doing everything in my power not to blow any seals up

Looks like our skis have had similar owners in similar condition, yes the fuel lines are bad mine are in terrible condition and solid as a rock so it will take you some time to get the swing of things, developing a process of your own on the best way to remove them.

Good quality picks I used to remove the stubborn lines and clamps, also really a good tool to have in your collection as well.

1553384160620-png.39650




For me, I would use a heat gun to soften the hardened line and then use a good quality pick to lift it up past the nipple without tearing it up and pull the line off. I bought 1/4 automotive fuel line from amazon 25ft spool for only 20 bucks.

To get those awful clamps off just use your pick or small enough flat head in the little hole and (what I did) just move it left to right and it would pop right off.



I would replace your fuel strainer and fuel selector valve along with a good carb cleaning too. My carb is very corroded and the PO tried to mend its issues but stripped out a screw in the process so I am trying to resolve this issue. But OEM kits are the only way to go.

(currently in the carb rebuild process of semi-resto for the craft)

My spring was corroded too and the oem kit comes with 3 (based off of what pop-off pressure is needed for your setup.) As of right now the kit I ordered sbn 38/44, is $40 USD.

(I knew I was replacing it so I wasn't all that careful with it but the picture is a good example of what happens when you have those lines)
1553384693874-png.39656

1553126355070-png.39602


You will also need to flush out the bad oil that is in your ski too (PO used wrong oil tcw-30)
I used a siphon from harbor freight and sucked up the majority of oil and all the bad gas in my tank, was a good buy actually if you do not have one.


1553385008335-png.39660


You and me seem to be in the same situation and this forum is an amazing place to get information and helpful tips.
 
Most of the time the old grey lines will pull off without having to remove the clamps. Just be gentle with the fuel baffle and filter housing, as those are plastic nipples. If they won't pull off, use a diagonal cutter to snip the raised crimp on the clamp and peel them open. If the hose is really stuck, slit the end of the hose with a razor and they will come right off
 
Most of the time the old grey lines will pull off without having to remove the clamps. Just be gentle with the fuel baffle and filter housing, as those are plastic nipples. If they won't pull off, use a diagonal cutter to snip the raised crimp on the clamp and peel them open. If the hose is really stuck, slit the end of the hose with a razor and they will come right off

Yup tried that on the lines connected to my carb, really good to have a good view on the razor blaze so you don't damage the brass or plastic fittings.
 
Looks like our skis have had similar owners in similar condition, yes the fuel lines are bad mine are in terrible condition and solid as a rock so it will take you some time to get the swing of things, developing a process of your own on the best way to remove them.

Good quality picks I used to remove the stubborn lines and clamps, also really a good tool to have in your collection as well.

1553384160620-png.39650




For me, I would use a heat gun to soften the hardened line and then use a good quality pick to lift it up past the nipple without tearing it up and pull the line off. I bought 1/4 automotive fuel line from amazon 25ft spool for only 20 bucks.

To get those awful clamps off just use your pick or small enough flat head in the little hole and (what I did) just move it left to right and it would pop right off.



I would replace your fuel strainer and fuel selector valve along with a good carb cleaning too. My carb is very corroded and the PO tried to mend its issues but stripped out a screw in the process so I am trying to resolve this issue. But OEM kits are the only way to go.

(currently in the carb rebuild process of semi-resto for the craft)

My spring was corroded too and the oem kit comes with 3 (based off of what pop-off pressure is needed for your setup.) As of right now the kit I ordered sbn 38/44, is $40 USD.

(I knew I was replacing it so I wasn't all that careful with it but the picture is a good example of what happens when you have those lines)
1553384693874-png.39656

1553126355070-png.39602


You will also need to flush out the bad oil that is in your ski too (PO used wrong oil tcw-30)
I used a siphon from harbor freight and sucked up the majority of oil and all the bad gas in my tank, was a good buy actually if you do not have one.


1553385008335-png.39660


You and me seem to be in the same situation and this forum is an amazing place to get information and helpful tips.

Turns out the lines were already swapped out, I just never took a good enough look at the lines and went off memory. Checked it out and they are all good. Just have to tackle the oil now
 
THATS BAD! That is walmart oil. you can get it for about $12. That ski is made to run on Seadoo oil. Im not just saying that because its "SEADOO OIL". It has to do with the build up of carbon in the engine. That problem will need to be addressed but 1st lets Start over here.

How did you check the compression? Did you turn the fuel off ? and hold the throttle open?

Thats exactly what i did, had a compression test kit laying around from previous car issues. As for the oil, thats the next task, gonna go ahead and order some and in the mean time flush the bad stuff out
 
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