03 4TEC SC PART???????????

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nacar

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Merry Christmas to everybody. Please, could somebody identify where this part from, we think, is for an 03 Seadoo 4TEC SC. We bought the ski with the engine apart. We put it together and it fired up perfect, but after few minutes with water connected started leaking oil. We thought was from the oil cooler because was missing the O rings and the 2 bolts on the bottom, We corrected, ran for few minutes again and start leaking oil again. Could somebody please identify this part to see if this the problem? Could be the oil cooler that is damage or is another place that can leak oil? Thanks in advance
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That is the pump bracket on the 03 185 SC models. It bolts to the right side of the pump and then to the side of the hull in the back. It is basically worthless so it doesn't matter if you put it on or not. It was supposed to help keep the plastic pump from flexing but it didn't work. This is why the 185 models will go through wear rings in just a few hours and then will cavitate on full acceleration starts. The next year and all future years BRP made the pump housing out of aluminum for the 185 and higher hp models.

For the oil leak, the oil coolers can leak and will leak if you don't put the o-rings in. They are also sensitive to leaking if they get flexed either by leaving bolts out and running it or putting 2 o-rings on top of each other by mistake. It's easy to find the oil leak at the cooler, just wrap it with paper towels and start it for 3 seconds and check the towels. Sounds to me like you will need a new oil cooler.
 
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Hey ski-d00
Merry Christmas to you
Thanks for the reply. You just took a big headache from us because we were thinking that was something that we miss inside. LOL. Now we took the engine out and discover that the plug on the bottom of the engine was hand tie, so we think that could be the problem too. Another thing is we are not sure about the shaft seal, do you think that is better to replace it now? I have to go to my family Christmas meeting so I will answer later when I come back, Thanks again
 
When I said a plug on the bottom of the engine, we are thinking that is an oil plug, is it? Found online that there are two oil plugs on the bottom of the engine, could you confirm it, please?
Thanks
 
Yes, there are allen headed oil plugs on the bottom of the motor but these should never be taken out or loosened.
 
Ok, Thanks ski-d00. We bought the Ski with the engine apart and put it together, so we no sure if they were like that or we did. Same happened with the oil cooler, was attached to the engine and we assumed that was ok, but were missing the O rings and the bottom bolts. We are learning from you and others on the forum. Is any way to do a oil leak test with the engine out? if yes, Could we use another kind of oil to flush the engine and to test it?
 
I think that we did it. We thought that we would need to use special tools, but it just came out and we put the new one inside.
 
Still have a leak. I need help, please. We think that is by the shaft seal again. Do we need to put the engine out to check it? Any advice, ski-d00? Pictures how to properly install the seal and the shaft?
 
The bearing and seal at the driveshaft in the rubber boot does need to be installed correctly or it will leak. The bearing can come out of position. SeaDoo details this pretty well in their manual and even put a tell tale groove on the shaft to help with installation. Read the manual carefully and no you do not need to remove the engine.
 
I will buy this kit to replace.
Sea Doo 4-Tec Drive Shaft Carbon Seal Kit GTX LTD SC
I saw a video of somebody doing the replacement, but he is using a tool to hold the shaft in the back and another one to disconnect it from the engine. Do I need those tools to do the job?
 
The carbon seal is what seals the lake water out, not the engine oil. Two completely different sealing systems and are about 3 inches away from each other on the drive shaft.

You do need the bumper plug on the end of the driveshaft to keep it in the proper position. You also need the plastic retainer part in the coupler which is screwed onto the crankshaft in the pto housing.

You don't need the driveshaft tools. Can easily be done without them.
 
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